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Description

The large outcrop behind the Plaque and in front of Ali's.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes

Crawl through the hole at the top of the buttress (opposite Ali's) then walk down.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 X Cosmos Trad 10m

Straight up with terrible pro. Toproping recommended.

Start: Start in the middle of the grey wall L of O-W.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

2
26 Hot Finger Mixed 10m, 3

Follow the BRs.

Start: Start just L of O-W.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

3
15 R * Orc-Wood Trad 12m

A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall.

Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

4
20 R Vaunted Trad 25m

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins, Jane Wilkinson, 1983

5
23 Deac's Route Mixed 1

The areteleft of Kamakaze

6
23 The Bitter End Mixed 18m, 1

Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt.

Start: Start just L of K.

FA: Jim Thomas, Chris Shepherd, 1983

7
16 Kamikaze Trad 20m

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor, 1968

8
24 Towelled Off Mixed 20m, 1

Up the middle of the face between K and DA.

Start: Start just R of K.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

9
23 Dead Ahead Trad 20m

Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish.

Start: Start as for TO.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Barry Young, Simon Parsons, 1978

10
23 R * Ferrets and Berts Mixed 30m, 1

Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).

Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

11
18 R ** XI Trad 30m

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson, 1976

12
25 * Counting the Days Mixed 20m, 1

Originally given 25.

Start: Start as for 'Placements'.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

13
25 * Placements Trad 25m

Climb easy corner to ledge, then step right and ascend right-trending crack line/weakness via a series of sidepulls and gastons. Powerfully sustained at the grade and bombproof gear. Finish easily up right arete of the XI face (left of Fang).

Start: Start 1.5m L of F at the corner in the small alcove.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1980

14
18 Fang Trad 25m

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

15
26 * Strolling Direct Start Mixed 20m, 3

Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux.

Start: Start 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'.

FA: Gordon Poulteney

16
27 * Hyperlink Mixed 25m, 6

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

17
23 ** Strolling Mixed 25m, 1

Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead.

Start: Start 8m R of Fang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

18

Up the steep face then move L below the bulge past poor PR (there's a good sneaky wire instead). Now pull over the bulge and, ignoring the new bolt of 'Ergonomics' on the R, trend L up the runout face to join the finish of 'Strolling'.

Start: Start 3m R of S.

FA: Chris Shepherd

19
26 *** Ergonomics Mixed 20m, 5

Excellent long-overlooked addition that essentially is a direct finish to 'Strolling' RHV.

Start: Start as for 'Strolling' RHV.

FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones

20
29 ** Wagalak Sport 17m, 3

There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Mantis'.

FA: Dave Jones, 2005

21
19 * Mandible Trad 41m

Wagalak's chains unfortunately were a retrobolt of this route. But on the upside, if you lower off the chains this is possibly the best wet weather 19 at 'Arapiles'. Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it until 2m below the roof. Now traverse left along the break for 8m to the arête (where you will now find Wagalak's chains). Finish straight up the nice cracked arête. Unless you like ropedrag, use double ropes or split it into two pitches at the chains.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

22
24 R Victarctica Trad 25m

Climbable even in the eponymous weather...one of the driest routes at Araps! Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it for about 6m. Now step L onto the steep orange left wall and up this over the bulge (grade 23 climbing with dicky gear) to the break (the traverse on Mandible). Continue up Mandible or Preying.

FA: Will Monks, Peter Monks, 2009

23
18 Preying Trad 37m

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

24

As for 'Mantis' to the recess under the roof, now take the left end of the overhang and up the corner above, rejoining 'Mantis' near the top. There is a piton somewhere on this.

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Phillip McMillan, Rod Young, 1979

25
14 * Mantis Trad 33m

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: Start at the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull, 1965

26
15 Downward Bound Trad 25m

Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'.

FA: Mike Law, Glenn Tempest, 1976

27
11 Fear of Praying Trad 33m

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, Roger Murphy, 1976

28
23 Pulpy Kidney Mixed 15m, 2

Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete.

Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind.

FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden, 1982

29
16 R The Wizard Trad 20m

Layback a pin-scarred flake with poor pro, then directly up wall above.

Start: Start 5m R of PK.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

30
13 Petard Trad 40m

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little, Patrick Over, 1997

31
15 Thibenzol Trad 15m

Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall.

Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy.

FA: Smith, Pritchard, Hoskins, 1995

32
20 R * A Bit on the Side Trad 10m

Not much pro.

Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, Pritchard, 1995

33

The full description provided is "Right of Mantle". Hmmm. Maybe a repeat of Downward Bound? Maybe somewhere else entirely? Who knows.

FA: Richard Smith, 2006

34
10 Skybax Rider Trad 20m

Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'.

Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard.

FA: Keith and Tim Lockwood, 1995

35
19 Liver Little Trad 15m

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

FA: Hoskins, Bride and Wilkins, 1995