Straight up with terrible pro. Toproping recommended.

Start: Start in the middle of the grey wall L of O-W.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

Follow the BRs.

Start: Start just L of O-W.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

Orc-Wood

A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall.

Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins, Jane Wilkinson, 1983

The areteleft of Kamakaze

Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt.

Start: Start just L of K.

FA: Jim Thomas, Chris Shepherd, 1983

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor, 1968

Up the middle of the face between K and DA.

Start: Start just R of K.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish.

Start: Start as for TO.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Barry Young, Simon Parsons, 1978

Ferrets and Berts

Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).

Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

XI

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson, 1976

Counting the Days

Originally given 25.

Start: Start as for 'Placements'.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

Placements

Climb easy corner to ledge, then step right and ascend right-trending crack line/weakness via a series of sidepulls and gastons. Powerfully sustained at the grade and bombproof gear. Finish easily up right arete of the XI face (left of Fang).

Start: Start 1.5m L of F at the corner in the small alcove.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1980

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

Strolling Direct Start

Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux.

Start: Start 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'.

FA: Gordon Poulteney,

Hyperlink

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

Strolling

Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead.

Start: Start 8m R of Fang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Strolling Right Hand Variant

Up the steep face then move L below the bulge past poor PR (there's a good sneaky wire instead). Now pull over the bulge and, ignoring the new bolt of 'Ergonomics' on the R, trend L up the runout face to join the finish of 'Strolling'.

Start: Start 3m R of S.

FA: Chris Shepherd,

Ergonomics

Excellent long-overlooked addition that essentially is a direct finish to 'Strolling' RHV.

Start: Start as for 'Strolling' RHV.

FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones,

Wagalak

There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Mantis'.

FA: Dave Jones, 2005

Mandible

Up Mantis to roof, hand traverse L to arete, steeply up arete.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

Climbable even in the eponymous weather...one of the driest routes at Araps!

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Will Monks, Peter Monks, 2009

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

Mantis

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: Start at the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull, 1965

Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'.

FA: Mike Law, Glenn Tempest, 1976

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, Roger Murphy, 1976

Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete.

Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind.

FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden, 1982

Layback a pin-scarred flake with poor pro, then directly up wall above.

Start: Start 5m R of PK.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little, Patrick Over, 1997

As for 'Mantis' to the recess under the roof, now take the left end of the overhang and up the corner above, rejoining 'Mantis' near the top. There is a piton somewhere on this.

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Phillip McMillan, Rod Young, 1979

Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall.

Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy.

FA: Smith, Pritchard, Hoskins, 1995

A Bit on the Side

Not much pro.

Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, Pritchard, 1995

The full description provided is "Right of Mantle". Hmmm. Maybe a repeat of Downward Bound? Maybe somewhere else entirely? Who knows.

FA: Richard Smith, 2006

Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'.

Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard.

FA: Keith and Tim Lockwood, 1995

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

FA: Hoskins, Bride and Wilkins, 1995