Plaque All trad climbing21 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
2 minute easy walk from the campsite.
Walk off the back.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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Start left of cave. Follow the chalk into and out of the cave.
FFA: Henry Barber
FA: Jphn Fahey & Peter Jackson
FA: Henry Barber., 1975
A more compact little orange overhang you will not find. The steep section offers great moves on surprisingly good holds and is soft at the grade ... if you don't plug gear in the key holds.
Start: Start 5m R of 'Dramp'.
FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981
As for FoF to piton, then L to seam.
Start: Start as for FoF.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
Downgraded to 21 by Simey, so you can probably expect it to be reachy.
Start: Start 5m R of SB.
FA: Nic Taylor & Kevin Lindorff, 1975
Start: Start 2m R of FoF.
FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991
FA: Andrew Thompson, 1975
Short steep face, finish L as for Loboff.
Start: Start just R of D.
FA: Graham Jones & James Falla, 1986
Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.
FA: Someone, 2014