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Plaque All Trad climbing

21 routes in cliff
  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: Two minute walk from campsite.
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 2,282

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Description

The large block in front of Fang and Bard buttresses. Named for the large commemorative plaque attached to the face.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Plaque Rock area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

2 minute easy walk from the campsite.

Descent notes

Walk off the back.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers.

Start: Start on the far L.

FA: Matt Taylor, Peter Megens & Peter Cyganowski, 1977

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.

FA: Mike Law

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.

FA: Mike Law

Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove.

FA: Mike Law

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd & Jon Muir

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

FA: Bob Bull & John Fahey

The line between Minimus and Camelot.

FA: Mike Law

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

FA: Phillip Stranger

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

FA: Peter Watson & Peter Megens

Start left of the cave (as for Dramp). Up the face.

FA: Nick White & Dave Mudie

FA: Kim Carrigan & Greg Child

Start left of cave (as for Dramp). Left from the bottom of the cave an up a thin seam.

FA: Col Reece

Start left of cave. Follow the chalk into and out of the cave.

FFA: Henry Barber

FA: Jphn Fahey & Peter Jackson

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

A more compact little orange overhang you will not find. The steep section offers great moves on surprisingly good holds and is soft at the grade ... if you don't plug gear in the key holds.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Dramp'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Up to crappy old FH then trend L into SB.

Start: Start 2m R of SB.

FA: Tom Greenwood & Terry Tremble, 1989

As for FoF to piton, then L to seam.

Start: Start as for FoF.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Downgraded to 21 by Simey, so you can probably expect it to be reachy.

Start: Start 5m R of SB.

FA: Nic Taylor & Kevin Lindorff, 1975

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Worthless pro!

FA: Andrew Thompson, 1975

Short steep face, finish L as for Loboff.

Start: Start just R of D.

FA: Graham Jones & James Falla, 1986

Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.

FA: Someone, 2014

Up then traverse L across lip.

Start: Start 4m R of ALM.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Nic Taylor, 1975

Activity

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