Plaque All trad climbing

21 routes in cliff

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Description

The large block in front of Fang and Bard buttresses. Named for the large commemorative plaque attached to the face.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

2 minute easy walk from the campsite.

Descent Notes

Walk off the back.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers.

Start: Start on the far L.

FA: Matt Taylor, Peter Megens, Peter Cyganowski, 1977

2
18 Tis-sa-ack Trad 10m

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.

FA: Mike Law

3

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.

FA: Mike Law

4
23 R Jump Club Trad 10m

Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove.

FA: Mike Law

5

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Jon Muir

6
14 Minimus Trad 12m

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey

7
19 Loop Trad 12m

The line between Minimus and Camelot.

FA: Mike Law

8
10 Camelot Trad 13m

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

FA: Phillip Stranger

9
17 * Maximus Trad 13m

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

FA: Peter Watson, Peter Megens

10
24 Cumelittle Mixed 15m, 2

Start left of the cave (as for Dramp). Up the face.

FA: Nick White and Dave Mudie

FA: Kim Carrigan and Greg Child

11

Start left of cave (as for Dramp). Left from the bottom of the cave an up a thin seam.

FA: Col Reece

12
22 R * Dramp Trad 15m

Start left of cave. Follow the chalk into and out of the cave.

FFA: Henry Barber

FA: Jphn Fahey, Peter Jackson

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

13
25 * Sonic Boom Mixed 12m, 1

A more compact little orange overhang you will not find. The steep section offers great moves on surprisingly good holds and is soft at the grade ... if you don't plug gear in the key holds.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Dramp'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

14
24 Chili Digits Mixed 10m, 1

Up to crappy old FH then trend L into SB.

Start: Start 2m R of SB.

FA: Tom Greenwood, Terry Tremble, 1989

15

As for FoF to piton, then L to seam.

Start: Start as for FoF.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

16
22 Fear of Flying Trad 12m

Downgraded to 21 by Simey, so you can probably expect it to be reachy.

Start: Start 5m R of SB.

FA: Nic Taylor, Kevin Lindorff, 1975

17
8 Dodgy Brothers Trad 10m

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

FA: Martin Lama, Graeme Smith, 1991

18
20 R Doobie Trad 8m

Worthless pro!

FA: Andrew Thompson, 1975

19
23 * Angry Little Man Trad 8m

Short steep face, finish L as for Loboff.

Start: Start just R of D.

FA: Graham Jones, James Falla, 1986

20
8 Lobbail Trad

Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.

FA: Someone, 2014

21
16 * Lobboff Trad 10m

Up then traverse L across lip.

Start: Start 4m R of ALM.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Nic Taylor, 1975