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Table of contents

1. Fang Buttress and Surrounds 158 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 141.845233, -36.758377

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:

A short walk from the camping ground. Head towards the big bluff.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. Major Mitchell Gully 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844860, -36.757652

1.1.1. Morfydd Wall 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

The long grey wall running along Major Mitchell Gully.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors above Feral Chicken, Morfydd and a couple of others. Or scramble down Ali's.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rocky

From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

Start: Start up high in 'Major Mitchell Gully', above the massive boulder, and opposite 'Brontosaurus' (described under 'Dunes' Buttress).

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

24Trad 12m
2 Bullwinkle

Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

23Trad 12m
3 Natchez Trace

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.

Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

18Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Anxious Boys with Power Toys

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, David Jones + 1, 1993

26Mixed 15m, 2
5 Trench Warfare

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously.

Start: Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1980

24Trad 35m
6 * Firedance

The subtle weakness in frictional rock takes tiny RPs.

Start: Start 20m up L from DT.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton, late '., 1977

20 RTrad 15m
7 * Deeply Techo

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Feral Chicken'.

FA: Mike Law, 1981

24Trad 20m
8 ** Feral Chicken

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds. Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish.

Start: Start 3m L of L.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

22Trad 20m
9 Feral Fee-box

Fridge hugging.

Start: Start 2m R of FC.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994

25Mixed 12m, 3
10 Lennox

Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing R.

Start: Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

15Trad 30m
11 * Slap the Philanthropist 21Trad 30m
12 The Philanthropist

3m up 'Lennox', then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams.

Start: Start as for L.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter, 1984

15Trad 30m
13 Petrol Solutions

As for 'Slap Happy' to the ledge, then follow the bolts.

Start: Start as for SH.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Gordon Poultney, 1994

24Mixed 30m, 2
14 * Slap Happy

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge.

Start: Start 2m R of L.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1980

23Mixed 30m, 1
15 * Kincaid

A sweet slab.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

18Trad 20m
16 Housemaid's Knee

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.

Start: Start just L of G.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1985

18Trad 15m
17 * Gazollika

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof.

Start: Start on the next buttress uphill from 'Morfydd', at a chimney with a square roof.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus, 1968

9Trad 20m
18 No Place for Foxes

Pull up the buckety arete, then up the wall.

Start: Start just R of G.

FA: Paul Daniels, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

15Trad 30m
19 * No Standing

Choose either crack (both tough), to follow the thin diagonal past an old piton.

Start: Start in the middle of the buttress L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Peisker, 1979

24Trad 25m
20 Standing on Principles

Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.

Start: Start 2m R of NS.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Kim Carrigan, 1985

25Trad 20m
21 Stillborn

The line delineating the L side of the pillar is unpleasant and has a tough start.

Start: Start on the L side of the 'Morfydd' Pillar.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Keith Lockwood, 1967

19Trad 20m
22 Master Blaster

Weakness with PR, to ledge. Either pike off L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne's fine wall (the latter looks a much better outing).

Start: Start 1m R of S.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Carole Bradley, 1980

24Trad 28m
23 * Morfyne

Close to 'Morfydd' at times, but still a very appealing wall.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1979

24Trad 30m
24 *** Morfydd

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1968

19Trad 30m
25 Visual Laxative

Originally 22, but harder since a hold on pitch 1 snapped off.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Morfydd'.

  1. 15m (-) Shallow groove to ledge then L and up to 2nd ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Straight up face keeping L of arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Natalie Green, 1979

22Trad 35m
26 Bygone

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

12Mixed 30m, 1
27 * The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle

Start: Start in the gully right of 'Bygone', below the crack near arete.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, 1995

24Trad 25m

1.1.2. Ali's Area 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

The wall directly behind Fang Buttress.

Descent Notes:

Downclimb Ali's- follow the chains into the gully. Or rap from the station on the ledge behind Jogn's Pinnacle (45m abseil).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ali's Face

Probably the most descended route at 'Arapiles' (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended.

Start: Start 5m L of Ali's.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock, 2nd Jan

9 RTrad 50m
2 Ali's

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the 'Bluffs' climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Bygone', under the huge left-facing corner system, behind 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: The Craddocks?, 2000

3Trad 60m
3 Debut

Climb Ali's, then 'Bluff Minor'.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

10Trad 60m
4 The Dude Abides

Climb the funky roof to the left of 'Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join 'Nursery Rhymes' on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start: 1m left of 'Nursery Rhymes'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

26Mixed 30m, 4
5 Nursery Rhymes

Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25Trad 30m
6 * Directathal

Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

21Trad 30m
7 Tobermory

Start: Start as for 'Directathal'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

24Mixed 25m, 2
8 Meanderthal

Up the diagonal crack of D then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson, Kim Carrigan, 1978

22Trad 30m
9 A Snortiblog in Paradise

Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start: Start at Ali's.

FA: Craig Roberts, Ryan Robertson, 1986

13Trad 25m
10 Sisyphus

Start: Start at Ali\'s.

  1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on 'Orpheus' (which is described in the 'Bard Buttress' area).

  2. 28m (9) As for pitch 5 of 'Orpheus' then traverse R.

  3. 20m (9) 'Nasty' wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

  4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

FA: Two South Australians, 1965

9Trad 90m
11 Oedipus Complex

Follow S for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass 'Orpheus' and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

12Trad 66m

1.2. Fang Buttress 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845697, -36.757833

Description:

The large outcrop behind the Plaque and in front of Ali's.

Descent Notes:

Crawl through the hole at the top of the buttress (opposite Ali's) then walk down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cosmos

Straight up with terrible pro. Toproping recommended.

Start: Start in the middle of the grey wall L of O-W.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

24 XTrad 10m
2 Hot Finger

Follow the BRs.

Start: Start just L of O-W.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

26Mixed 10m, 3
3 * Orc-Wood

A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall.

Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

15 RTrad 12m
4 Vaunted

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins, Jane Wilkinson, 1983

20 RTrad 25m
5 Deac's Route

The areteleft of Kamakaze

23Mixed 1
6 The Bitter End

Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt.

Start: Start just L of K.

FA: Jim Thomas, Chris Shepherd, 1983

23Mixed 18m, 1
7 Kamikaze

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor, 1968

16Trad 20m
8 Towelled Off

Up the middle of the face between K and DA.

Start: Start just R of K.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

24Mixed 20m, 1
9 Dead Ahead

Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish.

Start: Start as for TO.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Barry Young, Simon Parsons, 1978

23Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Ferrets and Berts

Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).

Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

23 RMixed 30m, 1
11 ** XI

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson, 1976

19 RTrad 30m
12 * Counting the Days

Originally given 25.

Start: Start as for 'Placements'.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

25Mixed 20m, 1
13 * Placements

Climb easy corner to ledge, then step right and ascend right-trending crack line/weakness via a series of sidepulls and gastons. Powerfully sustained at the grade and bombproof gear. Finish easily up right arete of the XI face (left of Fang).

Start: Start 1.5m L of F at the corner in the small alcove.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1980

25Trad 25m
14 Fang

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

18Trad 25m
15 * Strolling Direct Start

Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux.

Start: Start 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'.

FA: Gordon Poulteney

26Mixed 20m, 3
16 * Hyperlink

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

27Mixed 25m, 6
17 ** Strolling

Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead.

Start: Start 8m R of Fang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

23Mixed 25m, 1
18 ** Strolling Right Hand Variant

Up the steep face then move L below the bulge past poor PR (there's a good sneaky wire instead). Now pull over the bulge and, ignoring the new bolt of 'Ergonomics' on the R, trend L up the runout face to join the finish of 'Strolling'.

Start: Start 3m R of S.

FA: Chris Shepherd

25 RMixed 25m, 2
19 *** Ergonomics

Excellent long-overlooked addition that essentially is a direct finish to 'Strolling' RHV.

Start: Start as for 'Strolling' RHV.

FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones

26Mixed 20m, 5
20 ** Wagalak

There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Mantis'.

FA: Dave Jones, 2005

29Sport 17m, 3
21 * Mandible

Up Mantis to roof, hand traverse L to arete, steeply up arete.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

19Trad 41m
22 Victarctica

Climbable even in the eponymous weather...one of the driest routes at Araps!

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Will Monks, Peter Monks, 2009

24 RTrad 6m
23 Preying

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

18Trad 37m
24 * Mantis

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: Start at the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull, 1965

14Trad 33m
25 Downward Bound

Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'.

FA: Mike Law, Glenn Tempest, 1976

15Trad 25m
26 Fear of Praying

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, Roger Murphy, 1976

11Trad 33m
27 Pulpy Kidney

Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete.

Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind.

FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden, 1982

23Mixed 15m, 2
28 The Wizard

Layback a pin-scarred flake with poor pro, then directly up wall above.

Start: Start 5m R of PK.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

16 RTrad 20m
29 Petard

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little, Patrick Over, 1997

13Trad 40m
30 Mantis Variant Finish

As for 'Mantis' to the recess under the roof, now take the left end of the overhang and up the corner above, rejoining 'Mantis' near the top. There is a piton somewhere on this.

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Phillip McMillan, Rod Young, 1979

16Trad 33m
31 Thibenzol

Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall.

Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy.

FA: Smith, Pritchard, Hoskins, 1995

15Trad 15m
32 * A Bit on the Side

Not much pro.

Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, Pritchard, 1995

20 RTrad 10m
33 I'd give Both My Ankles to do a route this close to camp

The full description provided is "Right of Mantle". Hmmm. Maybe a repeat of Downward Bound? Maybe somewhere else entirely? Who knows.

FA: Richard Smith, 2006

16Trad 25m
34 Skybax Rider

Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'.

Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard.

FA: Keith and Tim Lockwood, 1995

10Trad 20m
35 Liver Little

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

FA: Hoskins, Bride and Wilkins, 1995

19Trad 15m

1.3. Plaque 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845928, -36.757790

Description:

The large block in front of Fang and Bard buttresses. Named for the large commemorative plaque attached to the face.

Approach:

2 minute easy walk from the campsite.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 They Shoot Horses Don't They

A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers.

Start: Start on the far L.

FA: Matt Taylor, Peter Megens, Peter Cyganowski, 1977

20Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Tis-sa-ack

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.

FA: Mike Law

18Trad 10m
3 The Nose of El Capitan

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.

FA: Mike Law

18 RTrad 10m
4 Jump Club

Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove.

FA: Mike Law

23 RTrad 10m
5 Age of Raisins / Age of Reason

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Jon Muir

18Trad 11m
6 Minimus

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey

14Trad 12m
7 Loop

The line between Minimus and Camelot.

FA: Mike Law

19Trad 12m
8 Camelot

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

FA: Phillip Stranger

10Trad 13m
9 * Maximus

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

FA: Peter Watson, Peter Megens

17Trad 13m
10 Cumelittle

Start left of the cave (as for Dramp). Up the face.

FA: Nick White and Dave Mudie

FA: Kim Carrigan and Greg Child

24Mixed 15m, 2
11 Everest Without Oxygen

Start left of cave (as for Dramp). Left from the bottom of the cave an up a thin seam.

FA: Col Reece

23 RTrad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 * Dramp

Start left of cave. Follow the chalk into and out of the cave.

FFA: Henry Barber

FA: Jphn Fahey, Peter Jackson

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

22 RTrad 15m
13 * Sonic Boom

A more compact little orange overhang you will not find. The steep section offers great moves on surprisingly good holds and is soft at the grade ... if you don't plug gear in the key holds.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Dramp'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

25Mixed 12m, 1
14 Chili Digits

Up to crappy old FH then trend L into SB.

Start: Start 2m R of SB.

FA: Tom Greenwood, Terry Tremble, 1989

24Mixed 10m, 1
15 Wilma Holds Her Own

As for FoF to piton, then L to seam.

Start: Start as for FoF.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Trad 12m
16 Fear of Flying

Downgraded to 21 by Simey, so you can probably expect it to be reachy.

Start: Start 5m R of SB.

FA: Nic Taylor, Kevin Lindorff, 1975

22Trad 12m
17 Dodgy Brothers

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

FA: Martin Lama, Graeme Smith, 1991

8Trad 10m
18 Doobie

Worthless pro!

FA: Andrew Thompson, 1975

20 RTrad 8m
19 * Angry Little Man

Short steep face, finish L as for Loboff.

Start: Start just R of D.

FA: Graham Jones, James Falla, 1986

23Trad 8m
20 Lobbail

Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.

FA: Someone, 2014

8Trad
21 * Lobboff

Up then traverse L across lip.

Start: Start 4m R of ALM.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Nic Taylor, 1975

16Trad 10m

1.4. Golden Streak Area Boulders 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.845804, -36.758842

1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846188, -36.758757

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bowyang V1Boulder
2 * Classic high arete V0+Boulder 7m
3 Up nice wall V0+Boulder 3m
4 Face and flake V1Boulder
5 * Hideous Mantle V1Boulder
6 Moss Factor V4Boulder
7 ** Three Moves to Glory V3 to V4Boulder 3m
8 ** Golden Streak V2Boulder 6m
9 * Indian Replicator V4Boulder
10 L-slanting ramp with hard start V0Boulder
11 Wall R of the descent V0+Boulder
12 Wee Holds 2 Corner V1Boulder
13 V3

1m left of decent route

V3Boulder
14 The usual descent V0-Boulder 5m

1.4.2. Swing Wing Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845704, -36.758637

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High traverse V0-Boulder 4m
2 * Swing Wing V4Boulder
3 V9 problem V9Boulder
4 ** Sit-start L of arete V4Boulder

1.4.3. Big Pointy Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845612, -36.759010

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V2 Reachy Wall V2Boulder 5m
2 V0 Face V0Boulder 5m
3 V1 Middle of face V1Boulder
4 ** V3 Arete V3Boulder

1.4.4. Unkown Boulder Golden Streak area 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Unknown, Inverted roof problem V1Boulder 2m

1.4.5. Molar Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846444, -36.758802

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V3 traverse then mantle V3Boulder

1.4.6. No Hands Boulders 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846133, -36.758573

Description:

As in Selected Climbs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 no hands traverse then sharp arete V2Boulder
2 easy slab V0+Boulder

1.4.7. Animal Acts 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845151, -36.759164

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Animal Acts V3Boulder
2 Traverse V5Boulder
3 No Hands Traverse V0Boulder

1.5. Krondorf Area Boulders 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844352, -36.758548

1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder 16 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844550, -36.758814

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 1

Traverse R to L

V1Boulder
2 * 1(b)

The Continuation of the traverse (1) on the wall facing the creek

V5Boulder
3 * 2

Very Steep Arete at far L

V8Boulder
4 * 3

Steep arete facing the creek

V6Boulder
5 4

Steep groove, mossy top

V4Boulder
6 5

Up just L of arete. mossy at top

V3Boulder
7 6

Tenuous smooth wall just L of jugs

V2Boulder
8 7

L leaning line of jugs to topout

V0Boulder 4m
9 7.

L leaning line of jugs to topout

V0Boulder 4m
10 8

Up jugs by pockets

V0-Boulder 4m
11 * 9

Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof

V6Boulder
12 * 10

Sit start. Opposing side-pulls through middle of the roof

V8Boulder
13 * 11

Sit start. R hand on sloper and L hand on Gaston. Through R side of roof

V7Boulder
14 * 12

Sit Start. Start under R of roof then out and up seam and slab

V7Boulder
15 13

Rounded arete on good holds

V1Boulder
16 * Krondorff

This high face has a bolt on top. Start just L of tree and go up and right. Other high problems exist on this wall

V4Boulder

1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844810, -36.758626

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1) Boulder
2 ** Pinch Arete V3 to V4Boulder
3 Jump to Jug V5Boulder 7m
4 Pebble Wall V3Boulder 4m
5 5) V6Boulder 4m
6 6) V3Boulder 4m
7 7) V3Boulder 4m
8 8) V3Boulder 4m
9 #12 face L of easy crack V0+Boulder

1.5.3. oops boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V7

Gain vague scooped arete from the left

V7Boulder
2 V1

Up big suspect flakes

V1Boulder
3 V0-

Up wall left of chimney

V0-Boulder
4 V2

Rising traverse left, then up on spaced but good holds

V2Boulder
5 V0

The chimney

V0Boulder
6 ** oops

it can be set up as a toprope as you cant lead it, one bolt on top.

25Unknown 7m
7 Bliss 30Trad
8 Bum drag

Bum dragging traverse, usually done left to right

V3Boulder

1.5.4. Trackside Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.5. The Playground 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.843891, -36.758308

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slab behind first boulder off track V1Boulder
2 Line on Track Face, First Boulder V3Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Ali's Trad 60m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
8 Dodgy Brothers Trad 10m 1.3. Plaque
Lobbail Trad 1.3. Plaque
9 * Gazollika Trad 20m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Ali's Face Trad 50m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
Sisyphus Trad 90m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
10 Debut Trad 60m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
Skybax Rider Trad 20m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Camelot Trad 13m 1.3. Plaque
11 Fear of Praying Trad 33m 1.2. Fang Buttress
12 Bygone Mixed 30m, 1 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Oedipus Complex Trad 66m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
13 A Snortiblog in Paradise Trad 25m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
Petard Trad 40m 1.2. Fang Buttress
V0- The usual descent Boulder 5m 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
High traverse Boulder 4m 1.4.2. Swing Wing Boulder
8 Boulder 4m 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
V0- Boulder 1.5.3. oops boulder
14 * Mantis Trad 33m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Minimus Trad 12m 1.3. Plaque
15 Lennox Trad 30m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
No Place for Foxes Trad 30m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
The Philanthropist Trad 30m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Downward Bound Trad 25m 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Orc-Wood Trad 12m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Thibenzol Trad 15m 1.2. Fang Buttress
V0 L-slanting ramp with hard start Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
V0 Face Boulder 5m 1.4.3. Big Pointy Boulder
No Hands Traverse Boulder 1.4.7. Animal Acts
7 Boulder 4m 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
7. Boulder 4m 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
V0 Boulder 1.5.3. oops boulder
16 I'd give Both My Ankles to do a route this close to camp Trad 25m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Kamikaze Trad 20m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Mantis Variant Finish Trad 33m 1.2. Fang Buttress
The Wizard Trad 20m 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Lobboff Trad 10m 1.3. Plaque
17 * Maximus Trad 13m 1.3. Plaque
V0+ * Classic high arete Boulder 7m 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
Up nice wall Boulder 3m 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
Wall R of the descent Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
easy slab Boulder 1.4.6. No Hands Boulders
#12 face L of easy crack Boulder 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
18 Housemaid's Knee Trad 15m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Kincaid Trad 20m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Natchez Trace Trad 15m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Fang Trad 25m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Preying Trad 37m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Age of Raisins Trad 11m 1.3. Plaque
The Nose of El Capitan Trad 10m 1.3. Plaque
Tis-sa-ack Trad 10m 1.3. Plaque
19 *** Morfydd Trad 30m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Stillborn Trad 20m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Liver Little Trad 15m 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Mandible Trad 41m 1.2. Fang Buttress
** XI Trad 30m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Loop Trad 12m 1.3. Plaque
V1 * Bowyang Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
Face and flake Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
* Hideous Mantle Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
Wee Holds 2 Corner Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
V1 Middle of face Boulder 1.4.3. Big Pointy Boulder
* Unknown, Inverted roof problem Boulder 2m 1.4.4. Unkown Boulder Golden Streak area
* 1 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
13 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
V1 Boulder 1.5.3. oops boulder
Slab behind first boulder off track Boulder 1.5.5. The Playground
20 * Firedance Trad 15m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
* A Bit on the Side Trad 10m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Vaunted Trad 25m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Doobie Trad 8m 1.3. Plaque
They Shoot Horses Don't They Trad 30m 1.3. Plaque
V2 ** Golden Streak Boulder 6m 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
V2 Reachy Wall Boulder 5m 1.4.3. Big Pointy Boulder
no hands traverse then sharp arete Boulder 1.4.6. No Hands Boulders
6 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
V2 Boulder 1.5.3. oops boulder
21 * Slap the Philanthropist Trad 30m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Directathal Trad 30m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
22 ** Feral Chicken Trad 20m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Visual Laxative Trad 35m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Meanderthal Trad 30m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
* Dramp Trad 15m 1.3. Plaque
Fear of Flying Trad 12m 1.3. Plaque
V3 V3 Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
** V3 Arete Boulder 1.4.3. Big Pointy Boulder
V3 traverse then mantle Boulder 1.4.5. Molar Boulder
* Animal Acts Boulder 1.4.7. Animal Acts
5 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
6) Boulder 4m 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
7) Boulder 4m 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
8) Boulder 4m 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
Pebble Wall Boulder 4m 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
Bum drag Boulder 1.5.3. oops boulder
Line on Track Face, First Boulder Boulder 1.5.5. The Playground
23 Bullwinkle Trad 12m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Slap Happy Mixed 30m, 1 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Deac's Route Mixed 1 1.2. Fang Buttress
Dead Ahead Trad 20m 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Ferrets and Berts Mixed 30m, 1 1.2. Fang Buttress
Pulpy Kidney Mixed 15m, 2 1.2. Fang Buttress
** Strolling Mixed 25m, 1 1.2. Fang Buttress
The Bitter End Mixed 18m, 1 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Angry Little Man Trad 8m 1.3. Plaque
Everest Without Oxygen Trad 15m 1.3. Plaque
Jump Club Trad 10m 1.3. Plaque
V3 to V4 ** Three Moves to Glory Boulder 3m 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
** Pinch Arete Boulder 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V4 * Indian Replicator Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
Moss Factor Boulder 1.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder
** Sit-start L of arete Boulder 1.4.2. Swing Wing Boulder
* Swing Wing Boulder 1.4.2. Swing Wing Boulder
4 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
* Krondorff Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
24 * Deeply Techo Trad 20m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Master Blaster Trad 28m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Morfyne Trad 30m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
* No Standing Trad 25m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Petrol Solutions Mixed 30m, 2 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Rocky Trad 12m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
* The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle Trad 25m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Trench Warfare Trad 35m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Tobermory Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.2. Ali's Area
Cosmos Trad 10m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Towelled Off Mixed 20m, 1 1.2. Fang Buttress
Victarctica Trad 6m 1.2. Fang Buttress
Chili Digits Mixed 10m, 1 1.3. Plaque
Cumelittle Mixed 15m, 2 1.3. Plaque
25 Feral Fee-box Mixed 12m, 3 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Standing on Principles Trad 20m 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
Nursery Rhymes Trad 30m 1.1.2. Ali's Area
* Counting the Days Mixed 20m, 1 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Placements Trad 25m 1.2. Fang Buttress
** Strolling Right Hand Variant Mixed 25m, 2 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Sonic Boom Mixed 12m, 1 1.3. Plaque
** oops Unknown 7m 1.5.3. oops boulder
V5 Traverse Boulder 1.4.7. Animal Acts
* 1(b) Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
Jump to Jug Boulder 7m 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
26 Anxious Boys with Power Toys Mixed 15m, 2 1.1.1. Morfydd Wall
The Dude Abides Mixed 30m, 4 1.1.2. Ali's Area
*** Ergonomics Mixed 20m, 5 1.2. Fang Buttress
Hot Finger Mixed 10m, 3 1.2. Fang Buttress
* Strolling Direct Start Mixed 20m, 3 1.2. Fang Buttress
Wilma Holds Her Own Trad 12m 1.3. Plaque
V6 * 3 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
* 9 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
5) Boulder 4m 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
27 * Hyperlink Mixed 25m, 6 1.2. Fang Buttress
V7 * 11 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
* 12 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
V7 Boulder 1.5.3. oops boulder
29 ** Wagalak Sport 17m, 3 1.2. Fang Buttress
V8 * 10 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
* 2 Boulder 1.5.1. Krondorff Boulder
30 Bliss Trad 1.5.3. oops boulder
V9 V9 problem Boulder 1.4.2. Swing Wing Boulder
? 1) Boulder 1.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall