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Description:© (willmonks)

Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).

Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Location:  

Located in Fang Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845697,-36.757833

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs
23 Principal
23 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
23 R * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 47%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

desperate steep technical

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