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Description:© (boardlord)

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 29th May

Location:  

Located in Fang Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845697,-36.757833

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade
* Gareth Llewellin
18 ACA Route Register
18 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
18 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 52%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sandbag desperate tough good great ripper fun roof hands short mantle jamming fist lip crack

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