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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley.

Start: Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2005


Thin flake at left end of lower gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

25 Blockade Trad 30m

High side runners to left are needed. Start as for 'Impasse'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982

24 * Impasse Trad 20m

A hard start and it's not over then.

Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 3 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

22 R ** PB Trad 23m

The dominant line on the wall is very hard for the grade and has only just enough protection on the difficult start.

FA: Tim Beaman, 1976

25 * PB Direct Finish Trad 23m

Obvious but improbable. Start up PB and continue straight up.

FA: Stuart Williams & Dave Nelson, 1989

17 Black Legend Trad 20m
23 * Heavy Horses Trad 25m

Powerful line right of PB has a desperate bulge in the middle

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

24 Angles Up Trad 20m

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

19 * Tangent Trad 20m

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

Direct Start 23 : Recah problem 3 metres right of start. Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko 23-09-1982.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979