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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley.

Start: Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2005

2

Thin flake at left end of lower gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

3
25 Blockade Trad 30m

High side runners to left are needed. Start as for 'Impasse'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd, 1982

4
24 * Impasse Trad 20m

A hard start and it's not over then.

Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 3 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

5
22 R ** PB Trad 23m

The dominant line on the wall is very hard for the grade and has only just enough protection on the difficult start.

FA: Tim Beaman, 1976

7
25 * PB Direct Finish Trad 23m

Obvious but improbable. Start up PB and continue straight up.

FA: Stuart Williams, Dave Nelson, 1989

8
17 Black Legend Trad 20m
10
23 * Heavy Horses Trad 25m

Powerful line right of PB has a desperate bulge in the middle

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

11
24 Angles Up Trad 20m

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

12
19 * Tangent Trad 20m

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

Direct Start 23 : Recah problem 3 metres right of start. Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko 23-09-1982.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1979