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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, PB Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley. It's best to approach this from above and, because the gully is very steep and fragile, it would be better to abseil down the climb than to walk down to it.

Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

Steeply into right-facing corner which is followed until a terrace appears up on the right. Don't be tempted. Instead, step left and up centre of wall, finishing over central overhang and headwall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2005

Thin flake at upper end of main section of gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Start as for 'Impasse', traverse 4m R, go up 2m, then traverse back 3m! Now go up via a desperate crux, then up steep wall on brilliant rock and holds. Chain on ledge above topout.

Alternatively, clip the bolt on the direct start, batman up and head R into the crux. Less hassle and still 25.

Originally done with very high side runners to the L of the crux.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982

Open project past a bolt. A couple of pretty hard moves.

Wandery but good climbing. Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 4 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'. Up to second horizontal, traverse R 4m, go up 2m then diagonally right (not straight up the seam) and up the concavity on pockets and blind holds. Diagonally left to finish. Chain on wall above topout.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Start up PB, at the horizontal go diagonally left and through the bulge to join Impasse at horizontals. Using some of the crux holds on Impasse, move up and slightly right on pockets and then move left and up to finish. Chains on ledge above. Probably the best of the 24s/25s in the gully, though Blockade is very good too.

The "R" comes from the scary start of PB, the rest of the route is well protected.

FA: Ben Wiessner, Douglas Hockly & Jack Jane, 2015

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

FA: Tim Beaman, 1976

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

FA: Mark Moorhead

How hard is this really? Start up PB and continue straight up past two impossible moves.

FA: Stuart Williams & Dave Nelson, 1989

On the wall opposite the other routes.

On the wall opposite the other routes.

Nathan Hoette spent 2 days on this. Even Malcolm Matheson didn't onsight it. It's a shame this has one of the most holdless bums at Arapiles in it - the rest is quite nice 22.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'. Up through the bulge (crux) past RP's / small wires then R to seam just L of Tangent. Up and L to next break, then R and through roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Nick Plishko, 1982

Activity

Check out what is happening in PB Gully.