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Table of contents

1. Vandal Area 13 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.834369, -36.749062

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes:

There are double U-bolt anchors above 'Puzzlin' Evidence' and rap anchors on the Vandal ledge (slings and shackle).

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Viragoes

Has a few good sections.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Heather Phillips, 1992

14 Trad 50m
2 The Verge

Start just up right of 'The Viragoes'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd. First bulge was initially climbed as Threshold by Rod Young, Mark Moorhead., 1979

24 Mixed 20m, 1
3 The Vagabond / Vagabond

Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country between a lot of broken easy ground.

  1. 30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs.

  2. 15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall below the overhanging arete. Belay at the old bolt.

  3. 30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace.

  4. 7m (15) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners [this is about a 10m walk from the top of the P3]. The steep right-hand corner is good fun and quite technical. The one on the left is probably easier but doesn't look as good.

FA: John Moore, Chris Baxter, Phillip Stranger, 25th Nov

15 Trad 82m 4
4 Big Silver Rocket

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

FA: Michael Hartman,Mark Witham Deb Churches,Mark Witham Deb Churches

17 Trad 20m
5 Where's Merilyn?

Start: 4m right of big silver rocket

  1. -m (16) up mossy slab moving right to short crack. Up to rib. Climb this to steepness where move left on horizontals to belay ledge.

  2. -m (10) Continue up to good horizontal. Traverse 5-6m left on good holds & good pro until you can step up easily. Continue up to good ledge with bolt (Vagabond's belay).

  3. -m (17) Step right and continue up the end of 'Sweet Surrender'.

FA: Mark Witham,Michael Hartman,Deb Churches,Deb Churches

16 Trad 85m 3
6 * Sweet Surrender

A pretty good route but escapable in parts.

Begin just left of the big tree.

  1. 25m (17) Undercling to start then up flakes and cracks to big ledge.

  2. 35m (17) Go left into lowest orange scoop. Tackle this on the right and into smaller scoop above, then up past another two bulges.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

17 Trad 60m 2
7 Comb-over

Because it's thin. Start up 'Sweet Surrender' and move R to below orange wall. Straight up past two bolts then direct up juggy nose above to ledge.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rebecca Hopkins, 2014

22 Mixed 25m, 2
8 * Assistance Required Direct Start

Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

17 Trad 20m
9 * Assistance Required

Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner.

Go up wall to scoop; left here and up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

20 Trad 25m
10 ** Puzzlin' Evidence

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

23 Trad 25m
11 ** Vandal

Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK.

The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now.

Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.

  1. 15m (13) Pull onto wall and climb groove to large ledge at base of corner.

  2. 15m (14) The great corner leads to another ledge.

  3. 15m (17) Hard moves into the undercut corner and bridge to the top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, Jerremy Grandage. Pitch 1 : Ian Thomas, Andrew Bowman, David Shirra., 1977

17 Trad 50m 3
12 Another Route

Another inspiring route name.

  1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

  2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

23 Trad 30m 2
13 Swallows and Amazons

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start: Start at flake 5 metres up and right of 'Vandal'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns (alt), 1983

17 Trad 65m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 The Viragoes Trad 50m
15 The Vagabond Trad 82m 4
16 Where's Merilyn? Trad 85m 3
17 * Assistance Required Direct Start Trad 20m
Big Silver Rocket Trad 20m
Swallows and Amazons Trad 65m
* Sweet Surrender Trad 60m 2
** Vandal Trad 50m 3
20 * Assistance Required Trad 25m
22 Comb-over Mixed 25m, 2
23 Another Route Trad 30m 2
** Puzzlin' Evidence Trad 25m
24 The Verge Mixed 20m, 1