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Table of contents

1. Vandal Area 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.834369, -36.749062

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Viragoes

Has a few good sections.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Heather Phillips, 1992

14Trad 50m
2 The Verge

Start just up right of 'The Viragoes'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd. First bulge was initially climbed as Threshold by Rod Young, Mark Moorhead., 1979

24Mixed 20m, 1
3 The Vagabond / Vagabond

Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country between a lot of broken easy ground.

  1. 30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs.

  2. 15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall below the overhanging arete. Belay at the old bolt.

  3. 30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace.

  4. 7m (15) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners [this is about a 10m walk from the top of the P3]. The steep right-hand corner is good fun and quite technical. The one on the left is probably easier but doesn't look as good.

FA: John Moore, Chris Baxter, Phillip Stranger, 1965

15Trad 82m
4 Big Silver Rocket

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham Deb Churches

17Trad 20m
5 Where's Merilyn?

Start: 4m right of big silver rocket

  1. -m (16) up mossy slab moving right to short crack. Up to rib. Climb this to steepness where move left on horizontals to belay ledge.

  2. -m (10) Continue up to good horizontal. Traverse 5-6m left on good holds & good pro until you can step up easily. Continue up to good ledge with bolt (Vagabond's belay).

  3. -m (17) Step right and continue up the end of 'Sweet Surrender'.

FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman, Deb Churches

16Trad 85m
6 * Sweet Surrender

A pretty good route but escapable in parts.

Begin just left of the big tree.

  1. 25m (17) Undercling to start then up flakes and cracks to big ledge.

  2. 35m (17) Go left into lowest orange scoop. Tackle this on the right and into smaller scoop above, then up past another two bulges.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

17Trad 60m
7 * Assistance Required Direct Start

Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

17Trad 20m
8 * Assistance Required

Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner.

Go up wall to scoop; left here and up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

20Trad 25m
9 ** Puzzlin' Evidence

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

23Trad 25m
10 * Vandal

Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK.

The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now.

Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.

  1. 15m (13) Pull onto wall and climb groove to large ledge at base of corner.

  2. 15m (14) The great corner leads to another ledge.

  3. 15m (17) Hard moves into the undercut corner and bridge to the top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, Jerremy Grandage. Pitch 1 : Ian Thomas, Andrew Bowman, David Shirra., 1977

17Trad 50m
11 Another Route

Another inspiring route name.

  1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

  2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

23Trad 30m
12 Swallows and Amazons

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start: Start at flake 5 metres up and right of 'Vandal'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns (alt), 1983

17Trad 65m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 The Viragoes Trad 50m
15 The Vagabond Trad 82m
16 Where's Merilyn? Trad 85m
17 * Assistance Required Direct Start Trad 20m
Big Silver Rocket Trad 20m
Swallows and Amazons Trad 65m
* Sweet Surrender Trad 60m
* Vandal Trad 50m
20 * Assistance Required Trad 25m
23 Another Route Trad 30m
** Puzzlin' Evidence Trad 25m
24 The Verge Mixed 20m, 1