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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

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Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
23 * Angry Penguins Trad 20m

Gear is fiddly.

Start: Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of "Vandal".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1981

2

Start 2 metres right of "Angry Penguins", up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

FA: Louise, Lincoln Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

3
24 * Epic Demic Trad 22m

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement.

Start: Start about halway along the left wall of th gully, about 5 metres right of "Angry Penguins".

FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

4
25 * Cliff Richards Mixed 15m, 2

Wall right of "Epic Demic" past bolts. Continue up "Down And Out" or traverse off either way.

FA: Lincoln & Louise Shepherd, 1988

5

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail.

Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1992

6
11 Intrepid Trad 18m

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

FA: Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood, 1967

7
21 R Fourteen Days in May Mixed 18m, 2

Dimpled grey wall 1 metre R of "Intrepid" past 2 bolts.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

8
21 R Pick and Lose Trad 20m

Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

9
23 Believe You Me Trad 20m

Ramp as for "Opening" then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of "Pick And Lose".

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd. Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey did an incomplete version of this in., 1981

10
18 * Opening Trad 20m

Good for a hot day.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

11
23 * Hard Snort Mixed 20m, 1

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping.

FA: Lincoln, Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks & Phil Bigg, 1988