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Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 * Angry Penguins Trad 20m

Gear is fiddly.

Start: Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of "Vandal".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1981

2

Start 2 metres right of "Angry Penguins", up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

FA: Louise and Lincoln Shepherd, Steve Monks, 1988

3
24 * Epic Demic Trad 22m

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement.

Start: Start about halway along the left wall of th gully, about 5 metres right of "Angry Penguins".

FA: Chris and Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

4
25 * Cliff Richards Mixed 15m, 2

Wall right of "Epic Demic" past bolts. Continue up "Down And Out" or traverse off either way.

FA: Lincoln and Louise Shepherd, 1988

5

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail.

Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1992

6
11 Intrepid Trad 18m

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

FA: Murray Taylor, Keith Lockwood, 1967

7
21 R Fourteen Days in May Trad 18m

Dimpled grey wall 1 metre right of "Intrepid" with first runner at 8 metres.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, 1988

8
21 R Pick and Lose Trad 20m

Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1979

9
23 Believe You Me Trad 20m

Ramp as for "Opening" then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of "Pick And Lose".

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd. Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey did an incomplete version of this in., 1981

10
18 * Opening Trad 20m

Good for a hot day.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

11
23 * Hard Snort Trad 20m

Charming! Right arete of Intrepid Gully.

FA: Lincoln and Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Phil Bigg, 1988

12
20 ** Down and Out Trad 25m

So good! Intimidating steepness laced with the best jugs.

Start: Start from the big chockstone halfway up at the back of the gully. This is easy to approach from below or above from Hum Terrace.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, 1979