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Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Intrepid Gully

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start: Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of "Vandal". Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1981

Start 2 metres right of "Angry Penguins", up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

FA: Louise, Lincoln Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement.

Start about halfway along the left wall of the gully, about 5 metres right of Angry Penguins. Up vague crack to a good break. Traverse 2 metres left to sickle flake then hard moves up left to jugs.

FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Wall right of "Epic Demic" past bolts. Continue up "Down And Out" or traverse off either way.

FA: Lincoln & Louise Shepherd, 1988

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail.

Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully.

Up right wall to horizontal break and traverse right all the way to Opening and follow that to terrace. Jump the gap and go up to chains.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1992

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

FA: Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood, 1967

Dimpled grey wall 1 metre R of "Intrepid" past 2 bolts.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile.

Up the wall 3 metres right of Intrepid to break. Go over bulge at small, left-curving crack.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Ramp as for "Opening" then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of "Pick And Lose".

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd. Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey did an incomplete version of this in., 1981

Good for a hot day. Seem to remember that it is a bit pushy.

Climb ramp 1 metre right of Pick And Lose then traverse right to below shallow overhanging corner just left of arete and up this corner.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping.

FA: Lincoln, Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks & Phil Bigg, 1988

The slightly overhanging little wall down and R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully has three ring-bolts. It's quite technical but very short so boulders' will probably just highball it at V2!

Set by Glenn Tempest

FA: Glenn Tempest, Feb 2017


Check out what is happening in Intrepid Gully.