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Description

This wall around right from the Intrepid Gully and below Hum Terrace has not been very popular but it does have some good climbs.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Leasehold Trad 22m

Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak.

Start: Start at the left hand end of the wall at a wide crack.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1979

2

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss. Both pitches are given the same grade just in case.

Start: Start right of "Leasehold" at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of "Fade Out".

  1. 15m (25) Over first roof then left beneath second roof.

  2. 15m (25) Supposed to be sustained, poorly protected wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1980

3
22 * Fade Out Trad 35m

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1979

4
21 All in Vein Trad 35m

A filler roof problem.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

5

Steep and sustained.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "All In Vein".

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1985

6
16 Bhutan Trad 35m

The original version of "Friends In High Places", avoiding that climbs hard bits. However the start is totally desperate. Grade hasn't been changed because we couldn't get up it to grade it.

Start: Start mid-way between "Friends In High Places" and "Totally Stoned"; 1 metre from each!

FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

7
15 Totally Stoned Trad 36m

The major crack-line 5 metres right of "All In Vein" offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.

This crack is the same one climbed by "Intrepid" but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to "Intrepid"!

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1973

8
14 * Anchors Away Trad 35m

Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from "Totally Stoned" but should be started direct, as described.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

9
19 Bitterblue Trad 25m

Much better than it looks.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

10
20 Fretwork Trad 25m

Filthy.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

11

Crack and wall right of "Fretwork". Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

12
17 * Affinity Trad 45m

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog.

Start as for "Humbug".

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

13
18 The First Affinity Trad 24m

Originally the first pitch to "Affinity" (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepher, 1979

14

Pump-action. Worthwhile.

Start: Start as for "The First Affinity".

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet, 1999

15
19 Humbug Trad 30m

Right around the corner from "Anchorman's Delight" is a large corner system, left of "The First Affinity". Start at the base of the crack in this corner.

Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

16

Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

Start: The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of "Anchors Away"

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2011