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Table of contents

1. Leasehold Wall 16 routes in Cliff

All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

This wall around right from the Intrepid Gully and below Hum Terrace has not been very popular but it does have some good climbs.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Hum Terrace Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leasehold

Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak.

Start: Start at the left hand end of the wall at a wide crack.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1979

16 Trad 22m
2 Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss and, in fact, it is an easy piece of choss.

Start: Start right of "Leasehold" at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of "Fade Out".

  1. 15m (25) Desperate 2 moves out first bulge, then funky climbing left out main roof.

  2. 15m (12) Easy, mossy choss to Hum Tce.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1980

25 Trad 30m 2
3 * Fade Out

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1979

22 Trad 35m
4 All in Vein

A filler roof problem.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

21 Trad 35m
5 * Friends in High Places

Mostly good apart from a section of poor rock after the initial roof. Take L of two desperate handcracks through roof about 4m R of All In Vein. Rock improves up the corner, then direct through the roof and up to ledge at about 25m.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1985

20 Trad 35m
6 Bhutan

Start up the hand crack 1m R of FIHP... which is also desperate. Then wander across FIHP and keep going L then up and back R via a loose block. This route is pretty worthless and the only bit worth doing is the start as a slightly easier alternative to the start of FIHP.

FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

19 Trad 35m
7 Totally Stoned

The major crack-line 5 metres right of "All In Vein" offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.

This crack is the same one climbed by "Intrepid" but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to "Intrepid"!

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1973

15 Trad 36m
8 * Anchors Away

Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from "Totally Stoned" but should be started direct, as described.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

14 Trad 35m
9 Sandbag Of The Century

Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

Start: The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of "Anchors Away"

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2011

18 Trad 30m
10 Bitterblue

Much better than it looks.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

19 Trad 25m
11 Fretwork

Filthy. Start 3 m R of Bitterblue, through overhang, step L then veer R up short wall.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

20 Trad 25m
12 Anchorman's Delight

Crack and wall right of "Fretwork". Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

16 Trad 30m
13 Humbug

Right around the corner from "Anchorman's Delight" is a large corner system, left of "The First Affinity". Start at the base of the crack in this corner.

Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

19 Trad 30m
14 * Affinity

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog.

Start as for "Humbug".

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

17 Trad 45m
15 The First Affinity

Originally the first pitch to "Affinity" (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepher, 1979

18 Trad 24m
16 * Cognitive Dissonance

Pump-action. Worthwhile.

Start: Start as for "The First Affinity".

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet, 1999

21 Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 * Anchors Away Trad 35m
15 Totally Stoned Trad 36m
16 Anchorman's Delight Trad 30m
Leasehold Trad 22m
17 * Affinity Trad 45m
18 Sandbag Of The Century Trad 30m
The First Affinity Trad 24m
19 Bhutan Trad 35m
Bitterblue Trad 25m
Humbug Trad 30m
20 Fretwork Trad 25m
* Friends in High Places Trad 35m
21 All in Vein Trad 35m
* Cognitive Dissonance Trad 30m
22 * Fade Out Trad 35m
25 Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour Trad 30m 2