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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kieran Loughran Will Monks Rod Young Glen Buchanan Mark Wood Adam Bramwell Paul Badenoch James Shaggy

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Leasehold Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

This wall around right from the Intrepid Gully and below Hum Terrace has not been very popular but it does have some good climbs.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Leasehold

Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak.

Start: Start at the left hand end of the wall at a wide crack.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1979

16
Trad 22m
Kieran Loughran 6 months ago

Properly this time. Orange groove is nice but hardish (gaston on a grade 16?)

Kieran Loughran 6 months ago

Character building. Followed the wide crack all the way then moved back right. Lower part of oran...

2 Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss. Both pitches are given the same grade just in case.

Start: Start right of "Leasehold" at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of "Fade Out".

  1. 15m (25) Over first roof then left beneath second roof.

  2. 15m (25) Supposed to be sustained, poorly protected wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1980

25
Trad 30m
3 * Fade Out

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1979

22
Trad 35m
4 All in Vein

A filler roof problem.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

21
Trad 35m
5 * Friends in High Places

Steep and sustained.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "All In Vein".

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1985

18
Trad 35m
James 9 years ago

nice but a bit dirty (needs more traffic)

6 Bhutan

The original version of "Friends In High Places", avoiding that climbs hard bits. However the start is totally desperate. Grade hasn't been changed because we couldn't get up it to grade it.

Start: Start mid-way between "Friends In High Places" and "Totally Stoned"; 1 metre from each!

FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

16
Trad 35m
7 Totally Stoned

The major crack-line 5 metres right of "All In Vein" offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.

This crack is the same one climbed by "Intrepid" but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to "Intrepid"!

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1973

15
Trad 36m
8 * Anchors Away

Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from "Totally Stoned" but should be started direct, as described.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

14
Trad 35m
9 Bitterblue

Much better than it looks.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

19
Trad 25m
10 Fretwork

Filthy.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

20
Trad 25m
11 Anchorman's Delight

Crack and wall right of "Fretwork". Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

16
Trad 30m
12 * Affinity

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog.

Start as for "Humbug".

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

17
Trad 45m
Paul Badenoch 4 years ago

The grunty 1st pitch, aka The First Affinity.

Jim Croft 11 years ago

2nd pitch

13 The First Affinity

Originally the first pitch to "Affinity" (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepher, 1979

18
Trad 24m
14 * Cognitive Dissonance

Pump-action. Worthwhile.

Start: Start as for "The First Affinity".

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet, 1999

21
Trad 30m
15 Humbug

Right around the corner from "Anchorman's Delight" is a large corner system, left of "The First Affinity". Start at the base of the crack in this corner.

Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

19
Trad 30m
16 Sandbag Of The Century

Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

Start: The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of "Anchors Away"

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2011

18
Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 * Anchors Away Trad 35m
15 Totally Stoned Trad 36m
16 Anchorman's Delight Trad 30m
Bhutan Trad 35m
Leasehold Trad 22m
17 * Affinity Trad 45m
18 * Friends in High Places Trad 35m
Sandbag Of The Century Trad 30m
The First Affinity Trad 24m
19 Bitterblue Trad 25m
Humbug Trad 30m
20 Fretwork Trad 25m
21 All in Vein Trad 35m
* Cognitive Dissonance Trad 30m
22 * Fade Out Trad 35m
25 Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour Trad 30m