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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
18 Over and Out Trad 30m

A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer.

FA: Alistair Mark, Dave Vass, Fiona Bowie, Marcus Wallaby., 1988

20 ** Down and Out Trad 25m
21 Mark and Craig Trad 24m

From halfway along "Down And Out" traverse go up through bulge to prominent flake.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1985

20 Jugs and Fun Trad 22m

From cave right of "Down And Out" climb out right and up overhanging wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1985


Nowhere near Kansas City!

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1979

18 Waddy Mackenzie Trad 20m

Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up.

FA: Craig Nottle, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1983

21 * Four Spooner Trad 20m

Boulder hard start to left-leading diagonal. Climb wall on right, then left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Kansas City Direct Finish", behind large conifer.

FA: Peter Newman, Mark Moorhead, 1979

15 Heavy Breathing Trad 20m

Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Dave Gairns, 1983

15 Heartless Heart Trad 20m

? repeat of 'Heavy Breathing'.

1.5 metres left of 'Heavy Petting'

FA: Martin Lama etc, 1991

15 Heavy Petting Trad 20m

Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Menagerie".

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

9 Munchkin Trad 20m

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for 'Menagerie' followed this line but the orginal 'Menagerie' description clearly places it further right.

Start: Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting)

FA: Unknown, 2000

9 Menagerie Trad 20m

Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left..

Start: Start right of largest conifer at short red groove.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1977


Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack.

FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama, Graeme Smith, 1991

18 Up in Arms Trad 12m

Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres.

FA: Martin Lama, Phil Benson, Graeme Smith, 1991

17 Sole Sister Trad 12m

Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up.

FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson, Martin Lama, 1991

17 High Sigh Trad 25m

Direct finish to "Affinity".

Start: Start as for "Affinity".

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Craig Nottle, 1983

16 ** Affinity Trad 22m

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a r-pitch route; the first pitch is now "The First Affinity".

Start: Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1979

16 * Hum Trad 30m

An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Affinity"

FA: Ed Neve, Andrew Bowman, Lyle Closs, 1977

24 Jug City Trad 20m

In fact it's a nearly blank wall.

Start: Start as for "High Kicks".

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir, 1988

23 * High Kicks Mixed 20m, 1

Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, and the nest of rap slings should be replaced.

Start: Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from "Hum".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

25 Starlets in Tow Trad 20m

Desperate start.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "High Kicks".

FA: Mike Law, Charlie Creese, 1981

20 * Stormalong Trad 45m

Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock.

Start: Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of "High Kicks"

  1. 15m (20) Take thr right-leading crack until it closes then go left across the wall to cave belay.

  2. 25m (18) Head right up wall then finish up short corner.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Rod Young, 1977

24 * Afternoon Cloud Trad 35m

A harder variant on the second pitch of "Morning Thunder". The first pitch appears a bit pointless.

Start: Start just left of "Morning Thunder"

  1. 15m (-) Go up and left under roof to cave on left.

  2. 20m (24) Go out over roof diagonally right to join "Morning Thunder" at prominent flake. Instead of going right, go straight up then 2 metres left and up line.

FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan, 1985

24 R ** Morning Thunder Trad 35m

A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish.

Start: Start at weakness 10 metres right of "Stormalong"

  1. 15m (24) Up crack to jug at roof. Arrange wires in horizontal pocket above roof then go boldly left and up to awkward stance. Veer right to flake then up to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Up easily on the left then traverse right above roof and up face to easier ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

24 X ** Sufficiently Alarming Mixed 35m, 1

Very serious direct route up the "Morning Thunder" wall. Take double ropes.

Start: Start as for "Morning Thunder".

  1. 15m (23) Follow "Morning Thunder" to overlap then go boldly up black streak to gain the flake then up to ledge.

  2. 20m (25) Straight over small roof then cautiously right to bolt (scary clip). Thin move right into scoop then easily to horizontal. Finish up shallow groove (21 and slightly run-out).

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988