Route Grade Style Popularity
Top pitch is excellent. Some like the first pitch and others think it's rubbish.
40m (-) From 2 metres right of chimney, go up clean, poorly protected but easy black slab.
20m (14) The undercut layback flake. Up to roof, protection in pockets on inside of flake, then into the layback.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell, 1966
Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno.
FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988
Very poor protection.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979
Nice but a bit bold.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, 1979
Bog On Up
Direct line between '
Racey' and ' Censorship', finishing up smooth headwall
FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988
Good line but you'll have no chance if the huge block goes.
This is probably the variant finish to
Day Of Rest recorded by Kieran Loughran in 1981.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, Rod Young, 1979
The arete left of Sidshow used to have a few BR/staple/U things, but they got chopped to prove some stupid point. The start is now quite bold but if the first bolt was put back in this could make a good approach to the second pitch of Dante's Inferno.
FA: Clive Curson (with bolts), 1998
Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap
Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face
Route Grade Style Popularity
Entertainer / The Entertainer
Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station
Start: Two metres right of Side Show
Entertainer then follow right-hand weakness at flake. Veer right to shallow corner. Hard moves up corner and through bulge to ledge. Up major flake until it ends then either up or move right to anchor.
Start: Start as for
Entertainer. Originally started up ' Comic Relief' but you really need double ropes for that.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Steve Moore, 1981
Up bulging weakness and pockets to left-facing flake system that leads to dark overlap. Through this then up wall trending right before blasting straight up to anchors.
Start: In the middle of the wall about five metres right of 'The Entertainer'
Exciting traverse of the lower wall.
Contrived crux but nice top wall.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982
A serious continuation up the wall beyond '
Cut Short'. From ledge climb short sickle and press on after it stops.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981
Cut Short' for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip tp pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join ' Tapestry' at the end of its traverse. Finish up tapestry.
Start: Start as for '
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009