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Lower Curtain Wall 19 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 33m
  • Style: Trad,Top Rope
  • Ascents: 465

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Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Dante's Inferno

Top pitch is excellent. Some like the first pitch and others think it's rubbish.

  1. 40m (-) From 2 metres right of chimney, go up clean, poorly protected but easy black slab.

  2. 20m (14) The undercut layback flake. Up to roof, protection in pockets on inside of flake, then into the layback.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell, 1966

15
Trad 70m
2 Tinsel Town

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

23
Mixed 15m , 3
3 Shaky Town

Very poor protection.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

23 X
Trad 15m
4 Racey

Nice but a bit bold.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, 1979

18 R
Trad 15m
5 Bog On Up

Direct line between 'Racey' and 'Censorship', finishing up smooth headwall

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

21
Trad 15m
6 Censorship

Good line but you'll have no chance if the huge block goes.

This is probably the variant finish to Day Of Rest recorded by Kieran Loughran in 1981.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, Rod Young, 1979

16 R
Trad 15m
7 The Joker

The arete left of Sidshow used to have a few BR/staple/U things, but they got chopped to prove some stupid point. The start is now quite bold but if the first bolt was put back in this could make a good approach to the second pitch of Dante's Inferno.

FA: Clive Curson (with bolts), 1998

15 R
Trad 25m
8 * Sideshow

Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap

Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face

19
Trad 35m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
9 *** Entertainer / The Entertainer

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station

Start: Two metres right of Side Show

18
Trad 40m
10 * Round Up

Up Entertainer then follow right-hand weakness at flake. Veer right to shallow corner. Hard moves up corner and through bulge to ledge. Up major flake until it ends then either up or move right to anchor.

Start: Start as for Entertainer. Originally started up 'Comic Relief' but you really need double ropes for that.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Steve Moore, 1981

21
Trad 45m
11 *** Comic Relief

Up bulging weakness and pockets to left-facing flake system that leads to dark overlap. Through this then up wall trending right before blasting straight up to anchors.

Start: In the middle of the wall about five metres right of 'The Entertainer'

21
Trad 45m
12 * Hello Hollywood

Exciting traverse of the lower wall.

24
Trad 50m
13 * Pet Abuse
26
Trad 35m
14 * Tapestry
23
Trad 40m
15 * Cut Short
21
Trad 40m
16 Final Bough

Contrived crux but nice top wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982

22
Trad 35m
17 Short Cut

A serious continuation up the wall beyond 'Cut Short'. From ledge climb short sickle and press on after it stops.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

23 R
Trad 20m
18 * Showstopper
28
Unknown 35m
19 * Bada boom

Climb 'Cut Short' for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip tp pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join 'Tapestry' at the end of its traverse. Finish up tapestry.

Start: Start as for 'Cut Short'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

27
Mixed 30m , 5