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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 * Dante's Inferno Trad 70m

Top pitch is excellent. Some like the first pitch and others think it's rubbish.

  1. 40m (-) From 2 metres right of chimney, go up clean, poorly protected but easy black slab.

  2. 20m (14) The undercut layback flake. Up to roof, protection in pockets on inside of flake, then into the layback.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell, 1966

2
23 Tinsel Town Mixed 15m, 3

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

3
23 X Shaky Town Trad 15m

Very poor protection.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

4
18 R Racey Trad 15m

Nice but a bit bold.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, 1979

5
21 Bog On Up Trad 15m

Direct line between 'Racey' and 'Censorship', finishing up smooth headwall

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

6
16 R Censorship Trad 15m

Good line but you'll have no chance if the huge block goes.

This is probably the variant finish to Day Of Rest recorded by Kieran Loughran in 1981.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, Rod Young, 1979

7
15 R The Joker Trad 25m

The arete left of Sidshow used to have a few BR/staple/U things, but they got chopped to prove some stupid point. The start is now quite bold but if the first bolt was put back in this could make a good approach to the second pitch of Dante's Inferno.

FA: Clive Curson (with bolts), 1998

8
19 ** Sideshow Trad 35m

Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap

Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face

9
18 *** Entertainer Trad 40m

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station

Start: Two metres right of Side Show

10
21 * Round Up Trad 45m

Up Entertainer then follow right-hand weakness at flake. Veer right to shallow corner. Hard moves up corner and through bulge to ledge. Up major flake until it ends then either up or move right to anchor.

Start: Start as for Entertainer. Originally started up 'Comic Relief' but you really need double ropes for that.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Steve Moore, 1981

11
21 *** Comic Relief Trad 45m

Up bulging weakness and pockets to left-facing flake system that leads to dark overlap. Through this then up wall trending right before blasting straight up to anchors.

Start: In the middle of the wall about five metres right of 'The Entertainer'

12
24 * Hello Hollywood Trad 50m

Exciting traverse of the lower wall.

13
28 * Showstopper Sport 35m, 3

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1999

14
26 * Pet Abuse Trad 35m

FA: Kim Carrigan

15
27 * Bada boom Mixed 30m, 5

Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry.

Start: as for Cut Short

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

16
23 * Tapestry Trad 40m
17
21 * Cut Short Trad 40m
18
22 Final Bough Trad 35m

Contrived crux but nice top wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982

19
23 R Short Cut Trad 20m

A serious continuation up the wall beyond 'Cut Short'. From ledge climb short sickle and press on after it stops.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981