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Description

Superb hanging slabs, capped by a flowing curtain like roof system. Note the topo has got at least routes 1 & 2 in the wrong spot - about 10m too far to the right.

© (bomber pro)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Day of Rest Trad 85m

The far left hand route, barely grazes the edge of the wall before scurrying of left to an easy finish. However there is a rap anchor on the ledge near the first belay and it would make a good single pitch route.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack

  1. 32m (15) Up wall untill airy pedestal then follow flake above to ledge, belay here. Rap off if so desired (30 metres).

  2. 28m (15) Traverse left and scramble up to a terrace,

  3. 25m (15) Now up the corner right of Dantes Inferno (Censorship) but traverse right below overhang to avoid big block.

FA: Chris Dewhirst Chris Baxter, 1979

2

As for Day of Rest, or come in from 'Cut Short', to top of day of rest\'s first pitch.

Start: as for 'Day of Rest'

  1. 32m (15) As for 'Day of Rest'

  2. 25m (22) Traverse right into shallow groove on the left edge of upper curtain wall, then up to cave, belay

  3. 5m (22) Now do the roof to the top.

FA: Kim Carrigan Barry Young, 1979

3
23 R ** Cheap Trip Trad 35m

Start on ramp at base of wall, step across curving crack, into small hanging corner on the left, up to horizontal break, above are two short seams, take the one on the right till it ends, then run it out till it eases.belay

Start: On the ramp at base of wall

  1. 30m (23)

  2. 5m (22) As for 'Day of Rest' direct Finish

FA: Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd, 1980

4

Start below a protruding bolt, up past this, then go up and left to eventually join 'Cheap Trip', move back right and up to second bolt, boldly up wall to finish as for 'Drama Class'.

Start: Just below a protruding bolt

FA: Ingo Knapp Hienze Zak, 1985

5
24 R *** Terminal Drive Trad 30m

Start at small tree at the middle of wall, over bulge, then up crack to slab, up this aiming for crack through next bulge, up to roof then desperately out crack and up to top.

Start: At small tree in middle of wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead Paul Aubrey,(wall 79) Kim Carrigan Rod Young (roof), 1979

6
24 R *** Cliff Hanger Trad 25m

Start below a right leading crack, up this then through small overlaps to main roof, up steep corner to bolt, then up to horizontal, then traverse two meters right and up to mantle finish.

Start: at rightward leading crack to the right of a small tree.

FA: Kim Carrigan Rod young (wall)Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd (roof 81), 1979

7
16 Old Mates Trad 18m

Easy looking corner at right side of black face.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1982

8
24 ** Drama Class Trad 30m

A girdle traverse of the lower curtain, start right of 'Cliff Hanger' at small corner, up to traverse line and follow this to the cave on 'Day of Rest Direct Finish', either keep going or go straight up

Start: Right of 'Cliff Hanger'.

FA: Kim Carrigan Louise Shepherd, 1981

9
23 *** Curtain Call Trad 35m

Right of 'Drama Class' is a crack through a roof, hard moves around this lead to the main roof or curtain, follow this all the way left just under the roof the whole way.

Start: Left of 'Phys Ed'

FA: Louise Shepherd Cim Karrigan, 1981

10
27 * Encore Mixed 30m, 3

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009