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right of the main wall

© (bomber pro)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
23 Phys Ed Trad 15m

A gymnastic ceiling crack that requires lots of technique, up corner right of 'Cliff Hanger', or pitch one of 'No Soft Options' then out the the obvious roof crack.

Start: Right of 'Cliff Hanger', then up corner

FA: Mark Moorhead Brian Fish, 1981

23 * Race Apart Trad 60m 2

A huge rising traverse, start below left end of 'No Soft Options' crack, climb directly to crack, follow it to ledge on the right, step right to 'Touchdown', then keep going to past bolt, up two meters then step down and right to continue to belay stance, then up right curving corner till it ends continue diagonally right and up easy corner.

  1. 30m (23)

  2. 30m (-)

FA: Chris Shepherd Kim Carrigan, 1982

20 * No Soft Options Trad 60m 2

The left hand of two diagonal cracks, Two hard pitches, gear to #4 cam, up easily then traverse left to crack, up this then climb up to roof and left to belay, short corner to a crouched stance below the roof, escape awkwardly right to where a big move brings you onto the headwall, then up.

  1. 40m (20)

  2. 20m (20)

FA: Tim Beaman Roland Pauligk, 1977

21 * Touchdown Trad 50m

Start as for 'No Soft Options', but take the Right hand of the two diagonal cracks, hard laybacking past cave to ledge, then right and up through easy roof.

FA: Rod Young Kim Carrigan Mark Moorhead, 1979

25 Hop It Mixed 50m, 2

Extremely slick.

Start: Start as for 'Gillette' behind huge conifer.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982

24 R Gillette Trad 40m

For a close shave!

Start: Start right of 'Touchdown' at thin gflake behind huge conifer.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981

21 R Shoe Shuffle Trad 35m

Bold climbing up blankest section of black face right of 'Gillette'.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

22 R Gene Vicious Trad 15m

Start is poorly protected.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Mike Law, 1983


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