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Description

right of the main wall

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Lower Curtain Wall Area

© (bomber pro)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A gymnastic ceiling crack that requires lots of technique, up corner right of 'Cliff Hanger', or pitch one of 'No Soft Options' then out the the obvious roof crack.

Start: Right of 'Cliff Hanger', then up corner

FA: Mark Moorhead Brian Fish, 1981

A huge rising traverse, start below left end of 'No Soft Options' crack.

  1. 30m (23) Climb directly to crack, follow it to ledge on the right, step right to 'Touchdown', then keep going to past bolt, up two meters then step down and right to continue to belay stance.

  2. 30m (-) Up right curving corner till it ends continue diagonally right and up easy corner.

FA: Chris Shepherd Kim Carrigan, 1982

The left hand of two diagonal cracks, Two hard pitches, gear to #4 cam.

  1. 40m (20) Up easily then traverse left to crack, up this then climb up to roof and left to belay,

  2. 20m (20) Short corner to a crouched stance below the roof, escape awkwardly right to where a big move brings you onto the headwall, then up.

FA: Tim Beaman Roland Pauligk, 1977

Start as for 'No Soft Options', but take the Right hand of the two diagonal cracks, hard laybacking past cave to ledge, then right and up through easy roof.

FA: Rod Young Kim Carrigan Mark Moorhead, 1979

Extremely slick.

Start as for 'Gillette' behind huge conifer.

Up flake to ledge on left then across to bolt (a high runner in tree helps). Pedalling hard, slip left and up to next bolt. Flake, then corner to roof. Up groove through roof just left of Touchdown.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982

For a close shave!

Start right of 'Touchdown' at thin flake behind huge conifer.

From top of flake, clip piton with wire(!). Levitate to stance at 15 metres. Either belay here or continue on jugs.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981

Starts right of Gillette, midway between the two giant callitris trees.

Climb the short crack and continue up the creamy corner to the roof. Left on the hanging slab, pull over the roof (BR) and up the corner/groove to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Geoff Little, 21 Feb

The big diagonal line up the middle. We thought this was part of Race Apart, but Race Apart traverses further right and finishes up Old Mates.

Climb a few metres up Ants Pants until possible to step right and surmount the first bulge. Step back left and pull over the next bulge which guards the upper corner. Continue up the gentle right side of this major corner system to a rooflet/bulge. Pull over this and finish up the left-facing corner and wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Geoff Little, 1 Mar

Start at the right-hand callitris tree.

Straight up past two BRs to the overlap. Step left, then veer back right above the overlap to a nice seam which leads to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Geoff Little, 14 Feb

Bold climbing up blankest section of black face right of 'Gillette'.

Start below small pedestal 5 metres left of Old Mates, an easy corner. Scarily up and left to pedestal then over smooth bulge and onwards.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

Easy looking corner at right side of black face.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1982

Start is poorly protected.

Start 3 metres right of Old Mates and go up diagonally left and over bulges, finishing through middle of final roofs.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Mike Law, 1983

Activity

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