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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Kim Cardigan Trad 26m

The left-hand chimney with awkward start.

FA: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope, 1982

2
16 He's a Lumberjack Trad 27m

Up 'The Closet' for 3 metres and step left. Veer left until beneath rooflet, right and up over bulge and a few ledges, to final steep wall.

FA: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope, 1982

3
6 The Closet Trad 30m

Huge old-fashioned chimney.

FA: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope, 1982

4
12 Cantaloupe Trad 35m

Up crack just right of 'The Closet' for 10 metres then up front of buttress. Finish up good short crack.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, 1982

5

Wall to overhang and blunt arete above, veering slightly right near top.

Start: Start just right of large tree at left end of Cliche Wall.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1982

6

On wall right of 'A Carriganesque Proposal' is short corner capped by wee roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

7

Breaks then delicate face to roof then over roof.

Start: Start 1 metre right of Knee High To A Bull Ant

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens, 1988

8
16 Schoney Trad 16m

Right of Noggers And Joggers, climb crack to small stance, then arete.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens, 1988

9

Climb the corner, then straight up the seam in the wall above.

Start: Start at the corner left of Middle Of The Road.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2001

10
19 * Middle of the Road Trad 15m

Quite good.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, 1981

11

Take arete on right of black slab with bulging start.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, 1981

12
20 Top Gear Trad 15m

Good fun wall climbing on great rock; in the same vein as Middle Of The Road.

Start: Start between Left, Right And Centre and 'Just Like Your Father'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside, 2003

13

Short hand-crack above small cave on right side of Cliche Wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan (solo), 1981

14
11 Redback Trad 15m

Appropriate that these two should be new route hunting near JLYF.

Start: Start right of 'Just Like Your Father'.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2001

15
10 Gone Walkabout Trad 20m

Stepped corner towards left side of Walkabout Wall.

FA: Tim & Keith Lockwood, 2001

16
12 Cuddapan Trad 18m

Good rock.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001

17
14 Rocky Road Trad 18m

Trend up to huge block perched on wall right of 'Cuddapan'. Step left at block and climb up its left side. From top of block, climb wall direct to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside, Peter Canning., 2003

18
17 Sidetrack Trad 18m

Where the seam thins down, climb wall on the left until the line can be regained.Onwards up line to top.

Start: Thin seam between 'Rocky Road' and 'Hump The Bluey'.

FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, 2003

19
12 Hump The Bluey Trad 20m

Diagonal line slanting slightly left.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001