Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Silver Bullet
The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City ' and 'Werewolf '.
FA: John Chapman, 1976
8
Trad 40m
2
Solar City
Not quite as good as it looks but still not a bad route up the orange wall up left from 'Werewolf '.
Start: Scramble up 'Silver Bullet ' and find a belay ledge part-way.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod young, 1979
21
Trad 20m
3
As You Like It
The face between 'Werewolf ' and 'Solar City ' has very fiddly gear.
Start: Start from 'Silver Bullet ', midway between 'Solar City ' and 'Werewolf '.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Adams, 1982
23 R
Trad 20m
4
Werewolf
The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet ' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.
It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.
FA: Daryly Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966
19
Trad 24m
5
The Trial
Epic route-finding, but most people would ignore the indirect start described here and start up 'Tribulation '.
Start on arete right of 'Werewolf ', aiming to eventually climb the hanging corner high on the arete.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981
25
Trad 35m
6
The Vampire
A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf '.
Start: Start as for 'Tribulation '.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009
28
Sport 18m
, 8
Route Grade Style Popularity
7
Tribulation
Boulder up seam past bolt to good ledge; there's actually 2, an old carrot and new FH placed for 'The Vampire ' and it seems you can either go direct past the FH or go slightly right via the carrot.. Continue to jug just left of 'Colour Scheme ' then go left a little and up headwall.
Start: Start at seam 3 metres right of 'The Trial '.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
26
Mixed 25m
, 1
8
Colour Scheme
The lovely orange wall is pretty hard for the grade. The only downside is the old protection peg with its unsightly tat.
Start: Start as for 'Full Moon '.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981
24
Trad 25m
9
Goodbye
Thank your lucky stars that this is no longer graded 19.
Start: Start as for 'Full Moon '.
FA: Colin Reece, 1979
22
Trad 30m
10
Goodbye Direct
24
Trad
11
The Turkey Federation Of Australia
18m (16) As for 'Full Moon ' to a ledge at 18 metres.
22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye ' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.
FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988
23
Trad 40m
12
Full Moon
Two good pitches with quite a hard start.
40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.
35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.
FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, 1976
16
Trad 85m
13
Full Moon Variant finish
Start: Start as for 'Full Moon '.
40m (16) As for 'Full Moon ', belay on ledge below a short steep wall.
15m (13) Across left on ledge to front of buttress, where a beautiful little corner leads to terrace.
25m (13) Climb left side of pale yellow wall (left of FM p2) and up prominent diagonal line. Through bulge and on to top of pinnacle.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside., 2003
16
Trad 80m
14
Let's Get Pissed
Tackles the steep rock immediately left of the 'Full Moon ' corner.
Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Full Moon ' below a small corner in the overlap.
FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988
24
Trad 40m
15
Harry V Dirchy
An easier, earlier excursion around Let's Get Pissed, but no improvement on the name.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1985
21
Trad 35m
16
Red Zinger
Thin moves left to base of flake then hard moves lead to roof. Traverse right to exit crack. Chossy rock to finish.
There's also a direct finish, grade 22, going straight up over roof. Jon Muir, Geoff Little 21-11-1988.
Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Full Moon ' at smooth wall capped by overhang.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, 1979
21
Trad 27m
17
A Chemical Reaction
Up 4 metres right of 'Red Zinger ' to bulge. Up on good breaks.
FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988
21
Trad 20m