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Werewolf Area 17 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 35m
  • Style: Mostly Trad
  • Ascents: 85

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Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Silver Bullet

The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: John Chapman, 1976

8
Trad 40m
2 * Solar City

Not quite as good as it looks but still not a bad route up the orange wall up left from 'Werewolf'.

Start: Scramble up 'Silver Bullet' and find a belay ledge part-way.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod young, 1979

21
Trad 20m
3 As You Like It

The face between 'Werewolf' and 'Solar City' has very fiddly gear.

Start: Start from 'Silver Bullet', midway between 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Adams, 1982

23 R
Trad 20m
4 ** Werewolf

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

FA: Daryly Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966

19
Trad 24m
5 * The Trial

Epic route-finding, but most people would ignore the indirect start described here and start up 'Tribulation'.

Start on arete right of 'Werewolf', aiming to eventually climb the hanging corner high on the arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25
Trad 35m
6 * The Vampire

A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.

Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

28
Sport 18m , 8
RouteGradeStylePopularity
7 Tribulation

Boulder up seam past bolt to good ledge; there's actually 2, an old carrot and new FH placed for 'The Vampire' and it seems you can either go direct past the FH or go slightly right via the carrot.. Continue to jug just left of 'Colour Scheme' then go left a little and up headwall.

Start: Start at seam 3 metres right of 'The Trial'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26
Mixed 25m , 1
8 * Colour Scheme

The lovely orange wall is pretty hard for the grade. The only downside is the old protection peg with its unsightly tat.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

24
Trad 25m
9 ** Goodbye

Thank your lucky stars that this is no longer graded 19.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

FA: Colin Reece, 1979

22
Trad 30m
10 Goodbye Direct
24
Trad
11 The Turkey Federation Of Australia
  1. 18m (16) As for 'Full Moon' to a ledge at 18 metres.

  2. 22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

23
Trad 40m
12 * Full Moon

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

  1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

  2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, 1976

16
Trad 85m
13 Full Moon Variant finish

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

  1. 40m (16) As for 'Full Moon', belay on ledge below a short steep wall.

  2. 15m (13) Across left on ledge to front of buttress, where a beautiful little corner leads to terrace.

  3. 25m (13) Climb left side of pale yellow wall (left of FM p2) and up prominent diagonal line. Through bulge and on to top of pinnacle.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside., 2003

16
Trad 80m
14 * Let's Get Pissed

Tackles the steep rock immediately left of the 'Full Moon' corner.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Full Moon' below a small corner in the overlap.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

24
Trad 40m
15 Harry V Dirchy

An easier, earlier excursion around Let's Get Pissed, but no improvement on the name.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1985

21
Trad 35m
16 * Red Zinger

Thin moves left to base of flake then hard moves lead to roof. Traverse right to exit crack. Chossy rock to finish.

There's also a direct finish, grade 22, going straight up over roof. Jon Muir, Geoff Little 21-11-1988.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Full Moon' at smooth wall capped by overhang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, 1979

21
Trad 27m
17 A Chemical Reaction

Up 4 metres right of 'Red Zinger' to bulge. Up on good breaks.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

21
Trad 20m