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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
8 Silver Bullet Trad 40m

The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: John Chapman, 1976

2
21 * Solar City Trad 20m

Not quite as good as it looks but still not a bad route up the orange wall up left from 'Werewolf'.

Start: Scramble up 'Silver Bullet' and find a belay ledge part-way.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod young, 1979

3
23 R As You Like It Trad 20m

The face between 'Werewolf' and 'Solar City' has very fiddly gear.

Start: Start from 'Silver Bullet', midway between 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Adams, 1982

4
19 ** Werewolf Trad 24m

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

FA: Daryly Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966

5
25 * The Trial Trad 35m

Epic route-finding, but most people would ignore the indirect start described here and start up 'Tribulation'.

Start on arete right of 'Werewolf', aiming to eventually climb the hanging corner high on the arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

6
28 * The Vampire Sport 18m, 8

A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.

Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

7
26 Tribulation Mixed 25m, 1

Boulder up seam past bolt to good ledge; there's actually 2, an old carrot and new FH placed for 'The Vampire' and it seems you can either go direct past the FH or go slightly right via the carrot.. Continue to jug just left of 'Colour Scheme' then go left a little and up headwall.

Start: Start at seam 3 metres right of 'The Trial'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

8
24 * Colour Scheme Trad 25m

The lovely orange wall is pretty hard for the grade. The only downside is the old protection peg with its unsightly tat.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

9
22 ** Goodbye Trad 30m

Thank your lucky stars that this is no longer graded 19.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

FA: Colin Reece, 1979

10
11
  1. 18m (16) As for 'Full Moon' to a ledge at 18 metres.

  2. 22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

12
16 * Full Moon Trad 85m

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

  1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

  2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, 1976

13

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

  1. 40m (16) As for 'Full Moon', belay on ledge below a short steep wall.

  2. 15m (13) Across left on ledge to front of buttress, where a beautiful little corner leads to terrace.

  3. 25m (13) Climb left side of pale yellow wall (left of FM p2) and up prominent diagonal line. Through bulge and on to top of pinnacle.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside., 2003

14
24 * Let's Get Pissed Trad 40m

Tackles the steep rock immediately left of the 'Full Moon' corner.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Full Moon' below a small corner in the overlap.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

15
21 Harry V Dirchy Trad 35m

An easier, earlier excursion around Let's Get Pissed, but no improvement on the name.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1985

16
21 * Red Zinger Trad 27m

Thin moves left to base of flake then hard moves lead to roof. Traverse right to exit crack. Chossy rock to finish.

There's also a direct finish, grade 22, going straight up over roof. Jon Muir, Geoff Little 21-11-1988.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Full Moon' at smooth wall capped by overhang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, 1979

17

Up 4 metres right of 'Red Zinger' to bulge. Up on good breaks.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988