Crag Guide for Far North

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley.

Start: Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2005

Thin flake at left end of lower gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

High side runners to left are needed. Start as for 'Impasse'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd, 1982

Impasse

A hard start and it's not over then.

Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 3 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

PB

The dominant line on the wall is very hard for the grade and has only just enough protection on the difficult start.

FA: Tim Beaman, 1976

PB Direct Finish

Obvious but improbable. Start up PB and continue straight up.

FA: Stuart Williams, Dave Nelson, 1989

Heavy Horses

Powerful line right of PB has a desperate bulge in the middle

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Tangent

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

Direct Start 23 : Recah problem 3 metres right of start. Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko 23-09-1982.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1979

Has a few good sections.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Heather Phillips, 1992

Start just up right of 'The Viragoes'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd. First bulge was initially climbed as Threshold by Rod Young, Mark Moorhead., 1979

Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country.

1. 30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs.

2. 15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall below the overhanging arete. Belay at the old bolt.

3. 30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace.

4. 7m (12) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners. The one on the left is probably easier. The steep right-hand cornere is probably grade 12 or 13..

FA: John Moore, Chris Baxter, Phillip Stranger, 1965

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham Deb Churches ,

Start: 4m right of big silver rocket

1. -m (16) up mossy slab moving right to short crack. Up to rib. Climb this to steepness where move left on horizontals to belay ledge.

2. -m (10) Continue up to good horizontal. Traverse 5-6m left on good holds & good pro until you can step up easily. Continue up to good ledge with bolt (Vagabond's belay).

3. -m (17) Step right and continue up the end of 'Sweet Surrender'.

FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman, Deb Churches ,

Sweet Surrender

A pretty good route but escapable in parts.

Begin just left of the big tree.

1. 25m (17) Undercling to start then up flakes and cracks to big ledge.

2. 35m (17) Go left into lowest orange scoop. Tackle this on the right and into smaller scoop above, then up past another two bulges.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

Assistance Required Direct Start

Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

Assistance Required

Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner.

Go up wall to scoop; left here and up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

Puzzlin' Evidence

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

Vandal

Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK.

The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now.

Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.

1. 15m (13) Pull onto wall and climb groove to large ledge at base of corner.

2. 15m (14) The great corner leads to another ledge.

3. 15m (17) Hard moves into the undercut corner and bridge to the top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, Jerremy Grandage. Pitch 1 : Ian Thomas, Andrew Bowman, David Shirra., 1977

Another inspiring route name.

1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start: Start at flake 5 metres up and right of 'Vandal'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns (alt), 1983

Angry Penguins

Gear is fiddly.

Start: Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of "Vandal".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1981

A Shorter History of Women's Bodies

Start 2 metres right of "Angry Penguins", up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

FA: Louise and Lincoln Shepherd, Steve Monks, 1988

Epic Demic

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement.

Start: Start about halway along the left wall of th gully, about 5 metres right of "Angry Penguins".

FA: Chris and Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Cliff Richards

Wall right of "Epic Demic" past bolts. Continue up "Down And Out" or traverse off either way.

FA: Lincoln and Louise Shepherd, 1988

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail.

Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, Greg Pritchard, 1992

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

FA: Murray Taylor, Keith Lockwood, 1967

Dimpled grey wall 1 metre right of "Intrepid" with first runner at 8 metres.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, 1988

Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1979

Ramp as for "Opening" then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of "Pick And Lose".

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd. Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey did an incomplete version of this in., 1981

Opening

Good for a hot day.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

Hard Snort

Charming! Right arete of Intrepid Gully.

FA: Lincoln and Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Phil Bigg, 1988

Down and Out

So good! Intimidating steepness laced with the best jugs.

Start: Start from the big chockstone halfway up at the back of the gully. This is easy to approach from below or above from Hum Terrace.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, 1979

Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak.

Start: Start at the left hand end of the wall at a wide crack.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1979

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss. Both pitches are given the same grade just in case.

Start: Start right of "Leasehold" at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of "Fade Out".

1. 15m (25) Over first roof then left beneath second roof.

2. 15m (25) Supposed to be sustained, poorly protected wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1980

Fade Out

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1979

A filler roof problem.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Friends in High Places

Steep and sustained.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "All In Vein".

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1985

The original version of "Friends In High Places", avoiding that climbs hard bits. However the start is totally desperate. Grade hasn't been changed because we couldn't get up it to grade it.

Start: Start mid-way between "Friends In High Places" and "Totally Stoned"; 1 metre from each!

FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

The major crack-line 5 metres right of "All In Vein" offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.

This crack is the same one climbed by "Intrepid" but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to "Intrepid"!

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1973

Anchors Away

Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from "Totally Stoned" but should be started direct, as described.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

Much better than it looks.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Filthy.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Crack and wall right of "Fretwork". Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Affinity

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog.

Start as for "Humbug".

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

Originally the first pitch to "Affinity" (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepher, 1979

Cognitive Dissonance

Pump-action. Worthwhile.

Start: Start as for "The First Affinity".

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet, 1999

Right around the corner from "Anchorman's Delight" is a large corner system, left of "The First Affinity". Start at the base of the crack in this corner.

Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

Start: The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of "Anchors Away"

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2011

A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer.

FA: Alistair Mark, Dave Vass, Fiona Bowie, Marcus Wallaby., 1988

From halfway along "Down And Out" traverse go up through bulge to prominent flake.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1985

From cave right of "Down And Out" climb out right and up overhanging wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1985

Nowhere near Kansas City!

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1979

Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up.

FA: Craig Nottle, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1983

Four Spooner

Boulder hard start to left-leading diagonal. Climb wall on right, then left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Kansas City Direct Finish", behind large conifer.

FA: Peter Newman, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Dave Gairns, 1983

? repeat of 'Heavy Breathing'.

1.5 metres left of 'Heavy Petting'

FA: Martin Lama etc, 1991

Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Menagerie".

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for 'Menagerie' followed this line but the orginal 'Menagerie' description clearly places it further right.

Start: Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting)

FA: Unknown, 2000

Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left..

Start: Start right of largest conifer at short red groove.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1977

Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack.

FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama, Graeme Smith, 1991

Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres.

FA: Martin Lama, Phil Benson, Graeme Smith, 1991

Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up.

FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson, Martin Lama, 1991

Direct finish to "Affinity".

Start: Start as for "Affinity".

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Craig Nottle, 1983

Affinity

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a r-pitch route; the first pitch is now "The First Affinity".

Start: Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1979

Hum

An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Affinity"

FA: Ed Neve, Andrew Bowman, Lyle Closs, 1977

In fact it's a nearly blank wall.

Start: Start as for "High Kicks".

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir, 1988

High Kicks

Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, and the nest of rap slings should be replaced.

Start: Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from "Hum".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Desperate start.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "High Kicks".

FA: Mike Law, Charlie Creese, 1981

Stormalong

Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock.

Start: Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of "High Kicks"

1. 15m (20) Take thr right-leading crack until it closes then go left across the wall to cave belay.

2. 25m (18) Head right up wall then finish up short corner.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Rod Young, 1977

Afternoon Cloud

A harder variant on the second pitch of "Morning Thunder". The first pitch appears a bit pointless.

Start: Start just left of "Morning Thunder"

1. 15m (-) Go up and left under roof to cave on left.

2. 20m (24) Go out over roof diagonally right to join "Morning Thunder" at prominent flake. Instead of going right, go straight up then 2 metres left and up line.

FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan, 1985

Morning Thunder

A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish.

Start: Start at weakness 10 metres right of "Stormalong"

1. 15m (24) Up crack to jug at roof. Arrange wires in horizontal pocket above roof then go boldly left and up to awkward stance. Veer right to flake then up to ledge.

2. 20m (22) Up easily on the left then traverse right above roof and up face to easier ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

Sufficiently Alarming

Very serious direct route up the "Morning Thunder" wall. Take double ropes.

Start: Start as for "Morning Thunder".

1. 15m (23) Follow "Morning Thunder" to overlap then go boldly up black streak to gain the flake then up to ledge.

2. 20m (25) Straight over small roof then cautiously right to bolt (scary clip). Thin move right into scoop then easily to horizontal. Finish up shallow groove (21 and slightly run-out).

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

Dante's Inferno

Top pitch is excellent. Some like the first pitch and others think it's rubbish.

1. 40m (-) From 2 metres right of chimney, go up clean, poorly protected but easy black slab.

2. 20m (14) The undercut layback flake. Up to roof, protection in pockets on inside of flake, then into the layback.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell, 1966

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Very poor protection.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

Nice but a bit bold.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, 1979

Direct line between 'Racey' and 'Censorship', finishing up smooth headwall

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Good line but you'll have no chance if the huge block goes.

This is probably the variant finish to Day Of Rest recorded by Kieran Loughran in 1981.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd, Rod Young, 1979

The arete left of Sidshow used to have a few BR/staple/U things, but they got chopped to prove some stupid point. The start is now quite bold but if the first bolt was put back in this could make a good approach to the second pitch of Dante's Inferno.

FA: Clive Curson (with bolts), 1998

Sideshow

Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap

Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face

Entertainer / The Entertainer

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station

Start: Two metres right of Side Show

Round Up

Up Entertainer then follow right-hand weakness at flake. Veer right to shallow corner. Hard moves up corner and through bulge to ledge. Up major flake until it ends then either up or move right to anchor.

Start: Start as for Entertainer. Originally started up 'Comic Relief' but you really need double ropes for that.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Steve Moore, 1981

Comic Relief

Up bulging weakness and pockets to left-facing flake system that leads to dark overlap. Through this then up wall trending right before blasting straight up to anchors.

Start: In the middle of the wall about five metres right of 'The Entertainer'

Hello Hollywood

Exciting traverse of the lower wall.

Contrived crux but nice top wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982

A serious continuation up the wall beyond 'Cut Short'. From ledge climb short sickle and press on after it stops.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

Bada boom

Climb 'Cut Short' for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip tp pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join 'Tapestry' at the end of its traverse. Finish up tapestry.

Start: Start as for 'Cut Short'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

The far left hand route, barely grazes the edge of the wall before scurrying of left to an easy finish. However there is a rap anchor on the ledge near the first belay and it would make a good single pitch route.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack

1. 32m (15) Up wall untill airy pedestal then follow flake above to ledge, belay here. Rap off if so desired (30 metres).

2. 28m (15) Traverse left and scramble up to a terrace,

3. 25m (15) Now up the corner right of Dantes Inferno (Censorship) but traverse right below overhang to avoid big block.

FA: Chris Dewhirst Chris Baxter, 1979

Day of Rest Direct Finish

As for Day of Rest, or come in from 'Cut Short', to top of day of rest\'s first pitch.

Start: as for 'Day of Rest'

1. 32m (15) As for 'Day of Rest'

2. 25m (22) Traverse right into shallow groove on the left edge of upper curtain wall, then up to cave, belay

3. 5m (22) Now do the roof to the top.

FA: Kim Carrigan Barry Young, 1979

Cheap Trip

Start on ramp at base of wall, step across curving crack, into small hanging corner on the left, up to horizontal break, above are two short seams, take the one on the right till it ends, then run it out till it eases.belay

Start: On the ramp at base of wall

1. 30m (23)

2. 5m (22) As for 'Day of Rest' direct Finish

FA: Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd, 1980

A Hundred Little Baby Bums

Start below a protruding bolt, up past this, then go up and left to eventually join 'Cheap Trip', move back right and up to second bolt, boldly up wall to finish as for 'Drama Class'.

Start: Just below a protruding bolt

FA: Ingo Knapp Hienze Zak, 1985

Terminal Drive

Start at small tree at the middle of wall, over bulge, then up crack to slab, up this aiming for crack through next bulge, up to roof then desperately out crack and up to top.

Start: At small tree in middle of wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead Paul Aubrey,(wall 79) Kim Carrigan Rod Young (roof), 1979

Cliff Hanger

Start below a right leading crack, up this then through small overlaps to main roof, up steep corner to bolt, then up to horizontal, then traverse two meters right and up to mantle finish.

Start: at rightward leading crack to the right of a small tree.

FA: Kim Carrigan Rod young (wall)Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd (roof 81), 1979

Easy looking corner at right side of black face.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1982

Drama Class

A girdle traverse of the lower curtain, start right of 'Cliff Hanger' at small corner, up to traverse line and follow this to the cave on 'Day of Rest Direct Finish', either keep going or go straight up

Start: Right of 'Cliff Hanger'.

FA: Kim Carrigan Louise Shepherd, 1981

Curtain Call

Right of 'Drama Class' is a crack through a roof, hard moves around this lead to the main roof or curtain, follow this all the way left just under the roof the whole way.

Start: Left of 'Phys Ed'

FA: Louise Shepherd Cim Karrigan, 1981

Encore

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

A gymnastic ceiling crack that requires lots of technique, up corner right of 'Cliff Hanger', or pitch one of 'No Soft Options' then out the the obvious roof crack.

Start: Right of 'Cliff Hanger', then up corner

FA: Mark Moorhead Brian Fish, 1981

Race Apart

A huge rising traverse, start below left end of 'No Soft Options' crack, climb directly to crack, follow it to ledge on the right, step right to 'Touchdown', then keep going to past bolt, up two meters then step down and right to continue to belay stance, then up right curving corner till it ends continue diagonally right and up easy corner.

1. 30m (23)

2. 30m (-)

FA: Chris Shepherd Kim Carrigan, 1982

No Soft Options

The left hand of two diagonal cracks, Two hard pitches, gear to #4 cam, up easily then traverse left to crack, up this then climb up to roof and left to belay, short corner to a crouched stance below the roof, escape awkwardly right to where a big move brings you onto the headwall, then up.

1. 40m (20)

2. 20m (20)

FA: Tim Beaman Roland Pauligk, 1977

Touchdown

Start as for 'No Soft Options', but take the Right hand of the two diagonal cracks, hard laybacking past cave to ledge, then right and up through easy roof.

FA: Rod Young Kim Carrigan Mark Moorhead, 1979

Extremely slick.

Start: Start as for 'Gillette' behind huge conifer.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd, 1982

For a close shave!

Start: Start right of 'Touchdown' at thin gflake behind huge conifer.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1981

Bold climbing up blankest section of black face right of 'Gillette'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1979

Start is poorly protected.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Mike Law, 1983

The flake then up left. It may finish up the continuous orange strip.

Start: Scramble in from the left to a ledge below a small right-facing flake near the centre of the wall.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1986

At the right side of the cliff at a little arching flake line. This is about 12 metres right of 'Small Change' and just left of the second dead tree from the left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood, David Spike, 1999

Start at right-hand big dead pine tree, about 5 metres right of 'First Night Nerves'.

FA: Pat Ford, Keith Lockwood, 1999

The left-hand chimney with awkward start.

FA: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope, 1982

Up 'The Closet' for 3 metres and step left. Veer left until beneath rooflet, right and up over bulge and a few ledges, to final steep wall.

FA: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope, 1982

Huge old-fashioned chimney.

FA: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope, 1982

Up crack just right of 'The Closet' for 10 metres then up front of buttress. Finish up good short crack.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, 1982

Wall to overhang and blunt arete above, veering slightly right near top.

Start: Start just right of large tree at left end of Cliche Wall.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1982

On wall right of 'A Carriganesque Proposal' is short corner capped by wee roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

Breaks then delicate face to roof then over roof.

Start: Start 1 metre right of Knee High To A Bull Ant

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens, 1988

Right of Noggers And Joggers, climb crack to small stance, then arete.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens, 1988

Climb the corner, then straight up the seam in the wall above.

Start: Start at the corner left of Middle Of The Road.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2001

Middle of the Road

Quite good.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, 1981

Take arete on right of black slab with bulging start.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, 1981

Good fun wall climbing on great rock; in the same vein as Middle Of The Road.

Start: Start between Left, Right And Centre and 'Just Like Your Father'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside, 2003

Short hand-crack above small cave on right side of Cliche Wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan (solo), 1981

Appropriate that these two should be new route hunting near JLYF.

Start: Start right of 'Just Like Your Father'.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2001

Stepped corner towards left side of Walkabout Wall.

FA: Tim & Keith Lockwood, 2001

Good rock.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001

Trend up to huge block perched on wall right of 'Cuddapan'. Step left at block and climb up its left side. From top of block, climb wall direct to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside, Peter Canning., 2003

Where the seam thins down, climb wall on the left until the line can be regained.Onwards up line to top.

Start: Thin seam between 'Rocky Road' and 'Hump The Bluey'.

FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, 2003

Diagonal line slanting slightly left.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood., 2001

The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: John Chapman, 1976

Solar City

Not quite as good as it looks but still not a bad route up the orange wall up left from 'Werewolf'.

Start: Scramble up 'Silver Bullet' and find a belay ledge part-way.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod young, 1979

The face between 'Werewolf' and 'Solar City' has very fiddly gear.

Start: Start from 'Silver Bullet', midway between 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Adams, 1982

Werewolf

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

FA: Daryly Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966

The Trial

Epic route-finding, but most people would ignore the indirect start described here and start up 'Tribulation'.

Start on arete right of 'Werewolf', aiming to eventually climb the hanging corner high on the arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

The Vampire

A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.

Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Boulder up seam past bolt to good ledge; there's actually 2, an old carrot and new FH placed for 'The Vampire' and it seems you can either go direct past the FH or go slightly right via the carrot.. Continue to jug just left of 'Colour Scheme' then go left a little and up headwall.

Start: Start at seam 3 metres right of 'The Trial'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Colour Scheme

The lovely orange wall is pretty hard for the grade. The only downside is the old protection peg with its unsightly tat.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

Goodbye

Thank your lucky stars that this is no longer graded 19.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

FA: Colin Reece, 1979

1. 18m (16) As for 'Full Moon' to a ledge at 18 metres.

2. 22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

Full Moon

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, 1976

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

1. 40m (16) As for 'Full Moon', belay on ledge below a short steep wall.

2. 15m (13) Across left on ledge to front of buttress, where a beautiful little corner leads to terrace.

3. 25m (13) Climb left side of pale yellow wall (left of FM p2) and up prominent diagonal line. Through bulge and on to top of pinnacle.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside., 2003

Let's Get Pissed

Tackles the steep rock immediately left of the 'Full Moon' corner.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Full Moon' below a small corner in the overlap.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

An easier, earlier excursion around Let's Get Pissed, but no improvement on the name.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1985

Red Zinger

Thin moves left to base of flake then hard moves lead to roof. Traverse right to exit crack. Chossy rock to finish.

There's also a direct finish, grade 22, going straight up over roof. Jon Muir, Geoff Little 21-11-1988.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Full Moon' at smooth wall capped by overhang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle, 1979

Up 4 metres right of 'Red Zinger' to bulge. Up on good breaks.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, Geoff Little, 1988

Detached pillar on left end of 'Bonsai' Buttress.

FA: Jon Muir, Mark Moorhead c., 1980

Dubious pro. Noddy thinks this is almost identical to 'Daze Gone By' but the routes will have to be repeated to make certain.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1982

Crack behind left-most tree and on up smooth wall.

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir, 1988

Take right crack via tree. When crack ends, move right and up.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

Shabby left wall of broken corner immediately left of 'Winterset'. 'Contrived' up middle of slab to finish just left of roof.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1982

Wall 2 metres left of 'Winterset'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1982

Grunt.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Rod Young, Greg Child, 1978

More grunting. Crack and ceiling 8 metres right of 'Winterset'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

Crack just right of 'Dismember'

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1982

A very small unit. Well below and north of 'Winterset' is a tiny crag with corner and roof. Hard start

FA: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews, Peter Watling, 1989

Hero thinks this might have been done earlier by Noddy.

Start: The clean line 50m right of 'Courting Daze'. (A large dead conifer leans against the cliff nearby).

FA: Iain Sedgman, Lesley Roberts, Leanne Matheson., 2002