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Description:

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss and, in fact, it is an easy piece of choss.

Start: Start right of "Leasehold" at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of "Fade Out".

  1. 15m (25) Desperate 2 moves out first bulge, then funky climbing left out main roof.

  2. 15m (12) Easy, mossy choss to Hum Tce.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Location:  

Located in Far North approx:
Long/Lat: 141.833416,-36.748160

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
25 ACA Route Register
25 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

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