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Description:© (kieranl)

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

  1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

  2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Keith Egerton & John Chapman, 23 May 1976


Located in Werewolf Area approx:
Lat/Long: -36.748023,141.832359

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
16 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
16 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
16 * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 46%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good fun nice rest layback crack

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