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Description:© (kieranl)

Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country between a lot of broken easy ground.

  1. 30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs.

  2. 15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall below the overhanging arete. Belay at the old bolt.

  3. 30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace.

  4. 7m (15) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners [this is about a 10m walk from the top of the P3]. The steep right-hand corner is good fun and quite technical. The one on the left is probably easier but doesn't look as good.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Moore, Chris Baxter & Phillip Stranger, 25th Nov

Location:  

Located in Vandal Area approx:
Long/Lat: 141.834369,-36.749062

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
12 ACA Route Register
12 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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