- Height: 82m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 2
- Aka: Vagabond
- Description:© (kieranl)
Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country. The traverse on the first pitch is nice but poorly protected.
30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs to the anchor of The Viragoes.
15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall to terrace the overhanging arete. There's an ancient , unnecessary bolt.
30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace (Check out photos of Hearse Arete at Gardom's Edge, UK to clarify the description).
7m (15) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners [this is about a 10m walk from the top of the P3]. The steep right-hand corner is good fun and quite technical. The one on the left is probably easier but doesn't look as good. This pitch can also be avoided by scrambling right and down and around to the rap anchor at the top of Hum Terrace.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: John Moore, Chris Baxter & Phillip Stranger, 25 Nov 1965
Located in Vandal Area approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|15||Community registered grade|
|12||ACA Route Register|
|12||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
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