A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Arapiles 2,751 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.828307, -36.760663

Unique Features And Strengths:

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

Description:

Heading towards Arapiles for some legendary climbing and starting to see it clearly for the first time, you will not have been alone if you feel a little disappointed. For taken from a distance Arapiles looks like a pile of choss.

It is the closer inspection that yields a glimpse of the true magic of Arapiles. For this is when Arapiles reveals itself. The beautiful rich golden and gray sandstone, hard and solid. The labyrinth of small gullies and hidden faces, the technical and varied climbing.

Added to this is that the true heart of Australian climbing resides at Arapiles and in particular the campground we call The Pines.

One of the greatest qualities Arapiles has, is its appeal to climbers of all abilities. It must be one of the few crags in the world which offers incredible quality routes at all grades.

The rock quality is such that even the easiest routes involve good rock and beautifully formed holds, a rarity at most crags. In the 'Experienced' range (approx grades 19-24) Arapiles is particularly blessed. It is only from grade 25 upwards that bolts start to kick in. Again the routes that are 25+ are incredibly good.

Climbing at Arapiles is a mixture of superb rock and technical moves on often steep and spectacular ground. Arapiles is the ideal place to become a more proficient trad climber. Arapiles is also very accessible, there are over 2000 routes all within easy walking distance.

One of the greatest things about Arapiles, which draw so many people to it apart from climbing, is the social scene. At popular times of the year the Pines campground can be very crowded, which some people may not like, but it is a good thing, because the atmosphere it creates is very social and friendly. You can turn up without a climbing partner, and be almost guaranteed to meet someone to climb with. It is great for meeting fantastic people from all over the globe.

There is so much more to say on this crag, Australia's premier crag, but that waits for you to discover it.

Access Issues:

State Park

Approach:

300km west of Melbourne.

Driving is your best bet. Public Transport is available- catch the train to Ballarat, bus to Horsham. From Horsham it is easy to hitch a lift or take a feeder bus that runs daily out to Arapiles.

Where To Stay:

The Pines Campground is situated at the base of Arapiles, with water and toilets. Suitable for long and short term camping. More luxurious accommodation can be found in Natimuk i.e. Backpackers or Bed and Breakfast establishments. There is a campground at Lake Natimuk which has showers. Showers are also available at the Natimuk Pub for $5.

Ethic:

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. Bushranger Bluff 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845969, -36.766948

Description:

The outcrop at Arapiles' far south-eastern end. A popular area for beginners.

Approach:

Drive along the summit road and the park on the right where the sign points to 'Melville's Cave'. From there it's a short, easy walk to the crag.

1.1.1. Main Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846038, -36.766935

Description:

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bullet Buttress

Pleasant.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Keith and Maurice Leslie, 1967

3Trad 20m
2 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

9Trad 20m
3 Holdup Line Direct Finish 14Trad 20m
4 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for LB.

Start: Start just R of HL.

FA: Ceri Law, Geraldine Thompson, 1981

11Trad 20m
5 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for SC.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law, Ian Wilson, 1980

11Trad 20m
6 Long Bow

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: Start 1m R of WCH.

FA: Ed Briner, Norm Osborne, 1970

10Trad 20m
7 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

11Trad 20m
8 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell

18Trad 28m
9 * Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis, Norm Osborne, 1970

14Trad 28m
10 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Ckinell'.

FA: Paul Gillis, Norm Osborne, 1970

12Trad 52m
11 * Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave.

Start: Start beneath L side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, Jon Muir, 1988

25 RTrad 25m
12 Cricket Bats in a Box

Poor pro. The R side of the cave to a sickle flake, then L.

Start: Start below the R side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

22 RTrad 25m
13 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for CBiaB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

9Trad 30m
14 Horse Drawn

Wall and overhang.

Start: Start 5m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe, 1980

12Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Sexless Sue

Chossy crack then overhang.

Start: Start 10m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Norm Osborne, Ed Briner, 1970

13Trad 20m
16 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack on L.

Start: Start 8m R of SS.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson, Sue Magoo, 1983

13Trad 20m
17 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of RC.

FA: Unknown, 2000

7Trad 20m
18 Revolver Crack

The deep crack.

Start: Start 20m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

6Trad 20m
19 Hangman

As for RC then head R up thin crack. Good rock, exciting finish.

Start: Start as for RC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

14 to 15Trad 25m
20 The Ghost of Melville

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: Start 3m R of RC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

15Trad 25m
21 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by TGoM...but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: Start R of 'Hangman'.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda, Emil

12Trad 28m
22 Six Wet Troopers

The least mossy line.

Start: Start about 3m right of BDC.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil

10Trad 28m

1.1.2. Back Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846350, -36.766569

Description:

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Approach:© (koala)

Approach as for 'Front Wall' and walk R around the end of the buttress past the Second Cave. 'Back Wall' is the small cliffline around the descent gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trooper

FA: Peter Martin

3Trad 10m
2 Trooper One

Crack to break, then go 2m R and up crack.

Start: The smooth grey wall just L of the walk-down gully, start 1m L of small cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

7Trad 10m
3 Trooper Two

Straight up the line above the cave.

Start: Start 1m R of T1 at the teeny cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

15Trad 10m
4 Trooper Three

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R side of the grey wall.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

6Trad 10m
5 Cartridge Arete

Jugs.

Start: Start at the arete R of the walk-down gully.

2Trad 10m
6 Cartridge Chimney

The chimney.

Start: Start just R of CA.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

6Trad 10m
7 Dead Ned

A nice little line. A route description would be nice though.

FA: Unknown, 2000

7Trad 10m
8 Orange Crush

The crack.

Start: Start 3.5m R of CC.

FA: Tod Truscott, Oscar Poll, 1990

15Trad 10m
9 Cobb & Co

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start: Start 0.5m R of OC.

FA: Bill ANdrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

6Trad 20m
10 Tullah's Tease

Layback for 5m then step R into crack.

Start: Start 5m R of C&C.

FA: John Fisher, 1983

7Trad 12m
11 Rubbery Under Arms

Bingo wings!

Start: Start 3m R of TT.

FA: Michael Creek, 1986

15Trad 12m

1.2. Declaration Crag Area 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 141.851749, -36.766707

Description:

The prominent outcrop by the side of the road about 600m south of the camping ground.

A good area of beginners.

Approach:

Either drive 600m down the road from the campsite and park close to the base of the crag or walk along the path that starts near the toilet block.

1.2.1. Declaration Crag 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.851825, -36.766836

Unique Features And Strengths:© (Breezy)

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

Description:© (Breezy)

The routes are described clockwise, starting at 'The Ferrets are Coming' which is on the far left, facing South.

There is a nasty weed on the R near the bouldering - please try not to spread the seeds.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pot Boiler

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

FA: Bruce Sutherland, Keith Lockwood, 1984

16Trad 12m
2 Tonic

Start: As for 'Pot Boiler' to horizontal break then right and up.

FA: Lockwood, Sutherland, 1984

17Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 The Ferrets Are Coming

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers.

Start: Start 7m left of CC.

FA: Peter Watson, Mike Law

21 RTrad 12m
4 Craddock Crack

Start: Start at the left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

9Trad 13m
5 Raiders of the Lost Crack

Up 3m, L across CC to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m L of arete.

Start: Start 1m right of CC.

FA: Auston Rotheram, Tom Greenwood, 1984

18Trad 15m
6 Kristies Finger

FA: Mark Thomas & Kristie O'Brien, 2005

10Trad 12m
7 Sunny Gully

Hard start, then easy :)

FA: Unknown, 2000

2Trad 12m
8 Marshmallow Sea DS 8Trad 14m
9 Marshmallow Sea

Move L to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. The undercut direct start (see 10a in topo) is a bit harder.

Start: Start as for DG.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Ken Taylor, 1975

7Trad 14m
10 Deck Gully

Start: Start at the rightmost deep gully facing the road.

FA: Unknown, 2000

2Trad 12m
11 * Brit Milah

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above Deck Games. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt. Start at top of Deck gully at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey, Steve Wilson, 2011

20Mixed 12m, 2
12 All Decked Out

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: Start as for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

27Mixed 12m, 2
13 Deck Games

Very appealing rock.

Start: Start under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

25Mixed 13m, 1
14 New Wave Winos

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

26Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 * Scorpio

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect :) )

FA: Ingvar Lidman

24Trad
16 * Sagittarian

Steep crack to break, then stay R of bolts (2?). A direct finish has recently been added by Ingvar Lidman (shown as 7a in the topo), it's grade 26 from memory but the write-up is not handy so it may be harder or easier.

Start: Start 6m left of 'Sickle'.

FA: Peter Millington, Adrian Jones --, 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

23Mixed 12m, 2
17 * Sagittarian Variant Start

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

FA: Unknown, 2014

21Mixed 15m, 1
18 New Wave Wanks

Up SK, then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

Start: Start as for 'Slip Knot'.

FA: Phil Bigg, Chris Shepherd, 1983

22Trad 15m
19 Slip Knot

Poorly protected wall just R of Sagittarian's bolts.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1977

19 RTrad 12m
20 Taya

Good beginner's lead between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

Start: Start just L of the plaque and R of the small overhang.

FA: Taya Cross, Glenn Mostert, 1997

7Trad 12m
21 Hammer

Up 'Sickle' then step L to short ramp up shallow corner.

Start: Start as for 'Sickle'.

FA: Doug Hatt, 1964

4Trad 12m
22 Sickle

Chimney, then crack above the plaque.

Start: Start just L of MM.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965

9Trad 13m
23 * Marmot's Mall

Marked as being "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Little Thor'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst, Kevin Sheehy, 1966

16 RTrad 12m
24 *** Little Thor

Climb the R facing flake/corner. Don't trust the piton(s) (if they're there). Also the wires have a habit of unzipping mid-crux as you move R at the roof - double ropes are recommended.

Start: Start on the L side of the blank northwest facing wall.

FA: Ian Guild, Peter Smith --, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis, Joe Friend, 1974

20 RTrad 12m
25 Little Thor Direct Finish

After the crux on LT, continue straight up instead of scuttling off L. Take a bolt bracket.

Start: Start as for LT.

FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988

23Mixed 5m, 1
26 ** Steps Ahead

Sustained crimpiness. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

29Sport 18m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 ** Hit the Deck

As for LS then follow bolt ladder up L. Finish direct.

Start: Start as for LS.

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

26Mixed 18m, 4
28 * Look Sharp

Short crack, BR, PR, trend R.

Start: Start 5m L of P.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Dignan, 1979

24Mixed 15m, 1
29 A New Toy

Crack to roof, BR.

Start: 2m left of P.

FA: Stuart Hickson, Allan Wilkie, 1982

22Mixed 15m, 1
30 * Remembrance Day

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), and a slung knob for pro.

Start: Start as for P.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

24Mixed 20m, 2
31 Problematic

The short bulging crack.

Start: Start on the right side of the northwest-facing sheer orange wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

22Trad 10m
32 Hog Jowls

Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

Start: Start L of TP.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Phil Wilkins, 1996

17Trad 20m
33 Sir George

Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

Start: Start left of TP.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

13Trad 20m
34 The Pleb

The chimney on the southwest side of the outcrop.

Start: Start L of the descent track.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

5Trad 27m

1.2.2. Brain Death Boulder 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.851686, -36.766490

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V0 problem on left

Sit start

V0Boulder 2m
2 V1 Problem (a) V1Boulder 3m
3 Traverse V3Boulder
4 V4 Problem V4Boulder
5 * V3 pocket problem V3Boulder
6 V1 Problem (b) V1Boulder 4m
7 V0 Juggy Arete V0Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 V0 Problem V0-Boulder 4m
9 Brain Death

FA: Henry Barber

21Boulder 5m
10 Brain Death - Piker's Variant V3Boulder
11 L V3Boulder 6m
12 S V2Boulder 6m
13 D V3Boulder 6m
14 The Big E V5Boulder 5m

1.3. Colosseum Wall Area 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.847881, -36.764754

Description:

Colosseum Wall is the last significant outcrop as you head South (L along the cliff line).

1.3.1. Comic Strip Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.848037, -36.765043

Description:

The wall about 60m south of Colosseum Wall.

Approach:

10 minutes walk from the camping ground.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchor in the middle of the wall or scramble off L for the routes from Sausage of the Century - Popeye.

Scramble off R for Asteroids and the routes to its right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sausage of the Century

Bouldery start then L into the line.

Start: Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1981

21Trad 12m
2 Oogie Boogie

A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle.

Start: Start just R of SotC.

FA: Mark Barnett, Rod Young, 1981

21Trad 12m
3 The Wizard of Id

Steep jugs, crack, face.

Start: Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Barnett, 1981

20Trad 15m
4 Popeye

Past the blocks, R and up weakness past ledge to top.

Start: Start under the jammed blocks in the overhangs R of WoI.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Barnett, 1981

20Trad 20m
5 Asteroids

Overhang, mantle, then weakness on R.

Start: Start just R of P at the obvious V.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1981

22Trad 20m
6 Hyperspace

Shallow corner then R through bulges.

Start: Start at bushes R of A.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1981

22Trad 20m
7 * Letting Go

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes now that a hold has broken lower down.

Start: Start at short flake 10m R of H.

There is a bolted direct start by Peter Stebbins at about 27 - don't know if he did it or anyone else has.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

27Mixed 20m, 1
8 * Failing New Romantic

Original start was climbing the tree, but the tree is now dead and virtually useless. Rap in and gain jug, or bring along a ladder. Up short layback crack type weakness. Considered hard for the grade.

Start: Start at the next flake R of LG.

FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

24Mixed 15m, 1
9 * Slime Time

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach. Has an old bolt or two that probably needs replacing. Start: Start R of FNR.

FA: Mike Law, Paul Hoskins, 1982

28Mixed 15m, 2
10 Yakshini

The line just L of the arete.

Start: Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete.

FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kasia Kazimierczak, Martin Lama, 1992

16Trad 11m
11 The Last in Line

The arete.

Start: Start just R of Y.

FA: Martin Lama, Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

19Trad 11m
12 Nothing Too Serious

Short corner then R and up.

Start: Start 1m R of LiL.

FA: Martin Lama, Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

16Trad 10m
13 Stabbur

Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join NTS at the top.

Start: Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.

FA: Patrik Alsebv, solo, 1995

24 RTrad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Thimble

The crack.

Start: Start beneath the R side of the front face.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, 1977

18Trad 9m
15 * Pinpricks of blood

Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Large cam handy.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Paul Deacon, 2009

20Trad 10m
16 Drowsy Drivers Die

The arete.

Start: Start 2m R of T.

FA: Roland Foster, James Anderson, 1989

24Trad 9m

1.3.2. Colosseum Wall 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.847837, -36.764456

Description:

Colosseum Wall is the last significant outcrop as you head South (L along the cliff line).

Approach:

10 minutes walk from the camping ground. Follow the track S (L along the cliff line).

Descent Notes:

Descend via the rap anchor at the top of Spasticus.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fitzroy Street

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

FA: Martin Grullich, 1986

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

26Sport 12m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Crucifixion

Grunt your way up the offwidth crack.

Start: Start 5-6m L of B.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell, Bruce Osborne, 1966

16Trad 12m
3 Blasphemy

Up the corner on the arete, trend R past FH and up arete with some fiddly gear.

Start: Start at the arete just L of CC.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

22Mixed 15m, 1
4 ** Christian Crack

Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic.

Start: There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of 'Colosseum Wall' - this is the left one.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith (aid), 1966

FFA: Joe Friend, 1974

20Trad 13m
5 ** The Rack

People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though.

Start: The crack 3m R of CC.

FA: John Ewbank, 1968

18Trad 13m
6 The Bolt

Up past the BR.

Start: Start just R of TR.

FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1984

21Mixed 13m, 1
7 Spasticus

Start: The scrubby corner.

5Trad 10m
8 No Wall At All

A low bolt then try not to die above that.

Start: Start between S & N.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981

22 XMixed 12m, 1
9 Nero

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start: Start 3-4m R of the main corner (Spasticus).

FA: Philip Stranger, Andrew Smith, 1966

15Trad 13m
10 Petronius

The steep corner.

Start: Start 6m R of Nero.

FA: Fred Langenhorst, Bruno Zielke (aid), 1969

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1977

21Trad 15m
11 Petro-Fy

Arete with poor pro.

Start: Start 3m R of P.

FA: Peter Martin, Mark Savage, 1990

24 RTrad 15m
12 Tom Thumb

The layback corner.

Start: Start 1m R of P-f.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1969

14Trad 15m
13 Brutus

The corner then finish R.

Start: Start 1m R of TT.

FA: Peter Martin, Rob Tymms, Mark Savage, 1990

19Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Castration

LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks.

Start: Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress.

FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen, 1970

16Trad 15m
15 What Have the Romans Done for Us?

The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice.

FA: FRA Biggus Dickus (solo), 1996

12Trad 8m
16 Toga

The line.

Start: Start around R from C, on the wall facing The Pines, at the initial.

FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen, Peter Lindorff, 1970

6Trad 12m
17 Flavius Maximus

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done.

Start: Start just R of the descent chimney.

FA: Peter Lindorff, Colin Lindorff, Paul Gillis (DF also done by Peter)., 1970

15Trad 14m
18 Romanite Domum

Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall.

Start: The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute' To God 19 in the April 2009 Argus.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1996

19Trad 10m
19 I've Got a Big Honker

The usual claim of those who don't...

Start: Start 8m R of FM.

FA: Sam Blainey, Andrew White, 1991

20Trad 12m
20 The Martyr

The bottomless corner.

Start: Start 2m R of IGaBH.

FA: Julie Tulloch, Bill Andrews, 1975

16Trad 11m
21 Welease Wodger

I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall.

FA: Graeme "Chapman" Jones, Eric "Idle" Jones, 1996

12Trad 15m
22 Welease Witchard

5m right of WW is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left.

FA: Smith, Paul Hoskins, 1996

12Trad 15m
23 Welease Bwian

The right line.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, 1996

17Trad 15m
24 People Called Romans, They Go the 'ouse

Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of WB. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height.

FA: Hoskins,G.Jones, Smith, 1996

21Trad 15m
25 Incontinentia Buttocks

The jamb crack 10m right of PCRTGTO.

FA: Biggus Dickus (solo), 1996

12Trad 8m
26 Roaming Knows

The nose on the buttress 8m right of IB. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones, Ed Irvine, 1996

14Trad 8m
27 Hail Spagnum

The rightward leaning crack around right of RK.

FA: G. Jones, Irvine, 1996

11Trad 8m

1.4. King Rat Area 122 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846231, -36.763169

Description:

A bit of a labyrinth, but worth exploring. Good on a hot day.

Approach:

10 minutes from the camping ground.

1.4.1. The Shark fin 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Description:

"It was some 11 years ago that I was out there so my memory isn't all that clear on the actual location... From memory it was a small fin of rock somewhere between King Rat Cliffs and Bushrangers Bluff...", James Kassay

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** tool bender

first accent

16Unknown 6m
2 * dont chuck your shoes till it is over 18Trad 7m
3 milking the dorsal fin 5Trad 7m
4 * spiderman savior 23Trad 7m

1.4.2. The Pimple 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Master Chalk

Rotten crack.

Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock, Peter McKeand, 1977

15Trad 10m
2 I've Been a Bunny

Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up.

Start: Start R of MC at jugs.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Greg Pritchard, 1986

19Mixed 12m, 1
3 Unknown bolted line

Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since.

Unknown 2
4 Squeeze Me Gently

The arete, veering L.

Start: Start where the E face meets the N face.

FA: Ian Anger, James Falla, 1986

21Trad 10m
5 Gadoong, Gadoong

Try and find this one, I dare you.

Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge.

FA: Smith, Bride, Pritchard, 1996

21Trad 10m

1.4.3. White Mice Walls 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The cliff high up between Colosseum Wall and King Rat Gully.

Approach:

The last part gets steep.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Controlled Burn

Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun!

FA: Richard Curtis, Phil Armstrong

21Trad 20m
2 * Bermuda Triangle

The corner, then R around the roof.

Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Barry Edwards, 1977

20Trad 20m
3 Thighs and Quivers

The weakness up the thin face.

Start: Start 6m R of BT.

FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker, Paul Francis, 1989

18Trad 20m
4 Bridge of Thighs

Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L.

Start: Start 5m R of T&Q.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson, Rob Thompson, 1982

19Trad 20m
5 Left Hand Variant

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

FA: Bill Andrews, Peter Watling, 1977

12Trad 24m
6 Right Hand Variant

The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner.

Start: Start as for LHV.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, Dave Simpson, 1975

11Trad 40m
7 Uncle Bob’s Folly

If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant'

Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this.

FA: Glenn Marsden, Greg Pritchard, 2006

10Trad 10m
8 Dud Day Afternoon

Start: Start: Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

  1. 20m (14) Up arete.

  2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts), James Falla., 2000

14Trad 50m
9 Ddark Ddigit

Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.

Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).

FA: Rod Young, Tim Chapman, 1981

20Trad 40m
10 A Sore Thumb

Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.

Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

20Trad 40m
11 A Sore Finger

Steep direct line with some brittle rock

FA: Keith Lockwood, Pete Canning, 2008

14Trad 25m

1.4.4. Light Fingered Gully 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The gully around to the L of King Rat Gully and Bum Rock.

Approach:

10 minutes from the camping ground.

Descent Notes:

Rap chains above Light Fingered.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 What's My Motivation

Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'.

Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a

shallow prow.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins., 1995

12Trad 25m
2 Urban Sprawl

The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall.

Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Rod Young, 1980

21Trad 15m
3 Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman

Caveat emptor!

Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'.

FA: Mike Law, Mark Colyvan, 1983

23Mixed 20m, 1
4 * Hunger

Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. There is a fixed anchor of some description where shown in the topo - but it needs to be clarified whether it's crap tat or decent hardware.

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

24Mixed 30m, 1
5 * Motivated by Food

The seam.

Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1989

26Mixed 30m, 1
6 * Shagadelic 28Trad 35m
7 * Light Fingered

Struggle up the good line.

Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows.

FA: Mike Law, 1977

22Trad 30m
8 Wub Wub Direct

Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.

Start: Start 2m R of LF.

FA: Mike Law, Ian ANger, 1983

23 RTrad 30m
9 The Match

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

8 RTrad 25m
10 Dance of the Flaming Anus 12Trad 10m
11 Uncle Fistula 12Trad 10m
1.4.4.1. Upper Hunger 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

Above the initial narrow part of Hunger Gully the gully widens above a large ledge. Urban Sprawl takes the obvious crack line through the roof 2m right of the left arete on the wall that faces camp. Opposite Urban Sprawl is a large wall that forms the continuation of the Hunger Gully wall. This is also know as Buttress Buttress Gully

Approach:

Approach up one of the routes on Hunger Wall or left of the gully, or from above. (**As you enter from above the first two lines you reach are Uncle Fistula and Dance of the Flaming Anus).

1.4.5. Bum Rocks 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846528, -36.763329

Description:

The bulgy buttress 30m L of King Rat Gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fireman Don't Got Convictions

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989

11Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Glutimus Maximus

Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.

FA: Hanut Dodd, M Abbott, 1989

18Trad 14m
3 Highschool Antics

Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.

Start: Start 1m R of GM.

FA: M Abbott, Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989

16Trad 14m
4 Fingersmith

Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.

Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.

FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, 1989

22Mixed 16m, 2
5 Of Moss and Men

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride, Greg Incoll, 1989

15Trad 15m
6 Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

FA: Fran Holland, Al Proudfoot, 1989

12Trad 14m

1.4.6. King Rat Gully 64 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845401, -36.763111

Description:

A shady area with quality climbing. Good on a hot day.

Approach:

Walk past the Atridae and Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle. The narrow entrance to King Rat Gully is about 100m L of the Atridae.

1.4.6.1. Slander Wall 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The small cliff on the L of the gully.

1.4.6.2. Left Fork 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.6.3. Right Fork 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.6.4. Rye Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The steep orange wall at the top of the gully.

1.4.6.5. Serious Young Lizards Wall 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

100m R of Rye Wall

1.4.6.6. Wittgenstein Walls 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

Finding this will be left as an exercise for the serious explorer; not that it's existence is in doubt.

Approach:

Locate Serious Young Lizards and then walk right and behind this buttress you will find a short red wall.

1.4.6.7. Upper SkyDiver 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

A small wall just just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth visiting for the shade. Two climbs by Bert Levy are included here as the approach notes say : "Going up King Rat Gully it splits near Catcher follow the right fork. The following routes are on the left wall." However the climbs have not been positively identified.

Approach:

After scrambling up the chimney just right of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the right.

1.4.6.8. Skydiver Wall 16 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The Face on the R as you enter the gully.

1.4.7. Lizard Procastionation Pinnacle 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846025, -36.762743

Approach:© (willmonks)

The order in which the routes are described is potentially confusing, because when you approach from camp you actually get to them in the opposite order. On the other hand if you're approaching from the base of 'Skydiver' Wall this ordering makes more sense.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cool Shades

Overhanging flake on L edge of cave, then short groove.

Start: Start L of CC.

FA: Nick White (solo), 1990

19Trad 15m
2 Use Me and Abuse Me

Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"

Start: Start in the cave L of CC.

The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.

FA: Simon Mentz, Simon Carter, Richard Henderson, 1991

24Mixed 15m, 2
3 Wrap-around Sunglasses

Traverse L along break to BR. Presumably you go up at some point too.

Start: Start 2m L of CC (the original contrived start was further L in the cave).

FA: Lionel Clay, John Pawson, 1986

21Mixed 15m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * Cruel Consistency

The steep thin crack and direct through the overhang.

Start: Start on the back face of the Pinnacle (near the R end of 'Skydiver' Wall, described in 'King Rat' Gully).

FA: Glenn Tempest, Rod Young (with illogical finish). DF by Mike Law, 1982

21Trad 15m
5 * English Ethics

More like a RHV than a separate route...

Start: Start as for CC.

FA: Mike Law, Robin Miller., 1982

21Mixed 15m, 1
6 Riddled

The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.

Start: Start R of EE.

FA: Mike Law, Yoshio Mishima, 1982

18Trad 18m
7 Don't Fret

The face - take care with delicate rock.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

FA: Mike Law & friends, 1982

17Trad 18m
8 Bing Crozzley

The next line of holds up the face.

Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.

FA: Robin Miller, Dave Gairns, 1982

18Trad 18m
9 Shakin' Stevens

Up to the top of the flake, R, up.

Start: Start 2m R of BC.

FA: Mike Law, Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1982

20Trad 18m
10 Lizard Procrastination

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

FA: Mike Stone, Ian Guild, 1964

12Trad 50m
11 Easy Lizard

Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top.

7Trad
12 English Ethics LHF

As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish.

Start: Start as for CC.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, 1989

23Mixed 15m, 1
1.4.7.1. Baby Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.5. Pilot Error Cliffs 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846505, -36.762600

Description:

The gullies and walls in between the Atridae and King Rat Gully.

Approach:

5 minute walk from the campground.

1.5.1. Baby Buttress 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The small wall between Cobwebs Gully and Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle.

Approach:© (bomber pro)

Left of 'Cobwebs Gully', right of 'Lizard Procrastination'.

Descent Notes:

Rap chains at the top of the cliff. Or scramble off L.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Cappella

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

FA: unknown

19Trad 15m
2 Falsetto

Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.

Start: start left of 'Tendrils'

FA: Rod Young, 1980

18Trad 15m
3 Tendrils

Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1980

18Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Metronome

A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.

Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'

FA: Rod Young, 1980

21Trad 15m
5 Mexican Madness

Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake.

FA: Lindorff

17Trad 10m
6 ScarIet Sage

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

FA: Lindorff, 1977

15Trad 10m
7 Wascal

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

FA: Mike Law

18Trad 10m
8 Pwocol Hawum

Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.

Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.

FA: Mike Law

22Trad 10m
9 * Cry Baby

two bolts then small gear to top

FA: Muki Woods, 2006

26Mixed 10m, 3
10 Nati Dwed 25Trad 10m
11 Chunder at 30

solo

FA: John Muir, 1985

21Trad 10m

1.5.2. Cobwebs Gully 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

A dark, narrow gully with some great routes.

Directly behind Pilot Error and R of Baby Buttress.

Approach:© (bomber pro)

This gully is located immediately behind 'Pilot Error', and just up right of 'Baby Buttress'.

Descent Notes:

Through a hole that brings you out on Pilot Error Terrace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pain Club

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

FA: Mike Law, solo, 1981

20Trad 10m
2 Boo

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Paul Hoskins, 1982

20Trad 15m
3 Ferrari in a Chevrolet World

Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.

Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.

FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989

23Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * Entangled

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson, Mike Law, 1981

24Mixed 25m, 1
5 Ingvars Project

Left of Astral plane

Sport
6 ** Astral Plane

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added?

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981

24Mixed 15m, 2
7 *** Cobwebs

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

28Trad 20m
8 Open Project

Crack and bolt up wall right of Cobwebs. Moves have been done at about 34.

Trad
9 ** Gilt Edged

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

  1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

  2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong, Dave McLean, 1977

18Trad 40m
10 Scatterbrain

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong, Dave McLean, 1977

14Trad 45m

1.5.3. Kryptonite Krack Area 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The wall below Pilot Error Terrace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thanksgiving Sunday

The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.

Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

23Trad 12m
2 So Help Me God

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, 1982

20Trad 10m
3 DC 10

The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.

Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981

FFA: Chris Jones., 2001

22Trad 10m
4 Kryptonite Krack

Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.

Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.

FA: Greg Child, 1978

23Trad 14m
5 * Superman

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, Dave Jones, 1995

28Trad 15m
6 Auntie Florrie

Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.

Start: Start R of S.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1980

23Trad 15m
7 Clark Kent

Finish direct.

Start: Start as for AF.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1979

23Trad 10m

1.5.4. Pilot Error Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The terrace above Kryptonite Krack.

Approach:

Go up the gully R of Kryptonite Krack, then L onto the terrace.

Descent Notes:

Down the short chimney at the back.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pilot Error

More than popular :)

Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

FA: Ian Anger, 1980

21Mixed 12m, 1
2 Cul-De-Sac

Start: Start R of PE.

FA: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve, Rod Young, 1979

20Trad 10m
3 Tarzan

Was 12 in previous guides.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

  1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

  2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter, 1968

13Trad 33m
4 * Togrul Khan

Overhanging corner, continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

19Trad 28m
5 Fixed Smile

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

22Trad 12m
6 Neta

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.

FA: Unkonwn, 2000

10Trad 25m
7 * Mesa

Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing.

Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge.

FA: Graham Squire, Clive Parker, 1966

9Trad 33m
8 Butte

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood, 2011

9Trad 28m
9 * Predator

Bouldery.

Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977

23Trad 15m
10 I Dunno Direct Start 24Trad 10m
11 * I Dunno

As for DP then traverse left along break. Upward and left to ledge. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start as for 'Daily Planet'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Jeff Lamb, Paul Daniels, Mark Moorhead, 1981

FA: LH start from back of cave (24) was soloed (!) by Mike Law, 1982

FA: Tough direct start (24) by Jon Muir, 1982

21Trad 20m
12 * Daily Planet

Superman is lurking!

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1980

FA: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla, Anthony Bishop), 1992

18Trad 20m
13 Daily Planet RHV

From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.

FA: Michael Woodrow, David Karla and Anthony Bishop, 1992

19Trad 20m
14 Perry White

The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

22 RTrad 20m
15 Strombeante / Strombeante Direct

Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).

Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.

FA: Geoff Weigand, Peter Croft (both solo), 1986

22Mixed 15m, 2

1.5.5. Lois Lane Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The wall facing Pilot Error and Kryptonite Krack.

Approach:

Reaching the routes R of Debutantes requires a scramble along an exposed terrace. One life has been lost on this traverse.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors above Debutantes and Lex Luthor. The rap from Lex Luthor is 30 metres.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lex Luthor

Given a star by the last 2 guidebooks...which coincidentally were written by the two first ascentionists! It's ok but arguably not worth a star so we are "restoring the balance" here.

Start: Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between 'Pilot Error' Ledge and 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.

  2. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher, to reach loweroff. Rap 15m down R to Debutantes' anchor and rap again from there.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

20Trad 40m
2 Across the Andes by Frog

The small arete with a bolt.

Start: Start R of LL.

FA: Simon Mentz, Nick White, 1992

21Mixed 20m, 1
3 Eurylochus

Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

  1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

  2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for 'Lex Luthor'.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

14Trad 33m
4 * Excuse me Lex 20Trad
5 Excuse Me While I Belch

Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.

Start: Start as for E.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Nicky Sunderland, 1991

19Trad 25m
6 * Heimweh

More proof that the Ewbank system doesn't need suffixes, prefixes or any other sort of fixes. Just read the damn description!

Start: Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this.

FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1985

26 RMixed 25m, 2
7 *** Debutantes and Centipedes

Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

Start: Start L of the blunt arete.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

25Mixed 25m, 3
8 Cambodia

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.

Start: Start R of D&C.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1982

25Mixed 25m, 2
9 * Lois Lane

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route!

Start: Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan, Peter Lindorff, 1979

24 XTrad 25m
10 Extension

The reachy face with a bolt.

Start: Start just R of LL.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

25Mixed 25m, 1
11 * Reunion

From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway.

Start: Start a few m R of LL beneath the only significant crackline.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Norm Booth, 1974

17Trad 25m
12 * Calypso

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Reunion', R of orange cave.

FA: Rod Young, Simon Kenny, 1977

15Trad 20m
13 Contraction

Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L.

Start: Start as for B.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982

22Trad 20m
14 Beasley St / Beasley Street

Boldly up face to bolt.

Start: Start just R of C.

FA: Guy Cotter, Steve Howden, 1981

23 RMixed 20m, 1

1.6. Atridae 58 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846203, -36.762109

Description:

The big, prominent block up and left behind the camp ground.

Approach:

5 minutes from the camp ground.

1.6.1. Cassandra Area 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The slabby wall to the L of the Flight Deck with a roof above.

Approach:

Steep scramble up the slabs below.

Descent Notes:

There is a rap station at the top of Cassandra. Also one L of the base of Cassandra so you don't have to scramble down the slabs below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cassandra

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 22m (18) Straight up past lots of bolts (5??), then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

  2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

FA: Mike Stone, Peter Watling, 1975

FA: (LHV Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton), 1977

18Mixed 40m, 5
2 * Cassandra Direct

Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.

Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.

FA: C Peisker, 1978

22Sport 23m
3 * Pain Street

While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.

Start: Start as for 'Cassandra'.

23Mixed 15m, 6
4 Warts and All

Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.

Start: Start 3m R of C.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Heinz Zak, 1985

22Mixed 18m, 1
5 Permanent Wave

Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.

  1. 20m (20) Scary arete to Cassandra's anchor.

  2. 20m (20) Steeply up arete until you have to go a bit left. Where this is in relation to pitch 2 of 'Cassandra' (or if there is any difference) is anybody's guess.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1980

20 RTrad 40m
6 Ckinarde

Start: Start in the gully R of PW.

  1. 20m (15) Chimney to the ledge.

  2. 20m (15) 'Small' crack to slopey ledge, R then back L via spooky block.

FA: Norm Osborne, Paul Gillis, 1970

15Trad 40m
7 The Tin Crucifix

COntinue up gully for 12m, climb to ledge, L and up crack.

Start: Start at the bolt belay of 'Ckinarde' (the location of which is not provided...).

FA: Norm Osborne, Paul Gillis, 1970

10Trad 42m
8 Unguarded Moments

Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1982

23 XTrad 40m

1.6.2. The Flight Deck 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

The open corner. Lots of chalk on the L wall

Approach:

Steep scramble up the slabs below.

Descent Notes:

There is a rap station at the top of It'll Never Fly and one at the top of Orestes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Have a Good Flight Direct Start

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

27Sport 20m
2 ** Afterburner

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

30Mixed 25m, 7
3 ** Jet Lag

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984

29Mixed 25m, 5
4 * It'll Never Fly

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Start just left of 'Orestes'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

24Sport 30m, 5
5 *** Have A Good Flight

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: Start as for It'll Never Fly.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

25Sport 25m, 6
6 *** Orestes

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

  1. 20m (24) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

  2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

FA: Jim Newlands, John Bennett, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch, 8/76), 1979

23Trad 40m
7 Detestes

Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip.

Start: Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

27Mixed 15m, 4
8 * Plimsoll Line

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...

Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter, John Moore, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 RTrad 15m
9 * Celine and Julie Go Bolting

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

FA: Louise and Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

26 RMixed 15m, 2

1.6.3. House of Atreus 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The main wall of the Atridae.

Approach:

Approach the base of the cliff from the L.

Descent Notes:

Walk off R and come down the gully. Or rap down from the rap station above Muldoon (35m abseil).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tiresias

Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.

  1. 20m (20) Easy chimney then more steeply straight upwards.

  2. 18m (20) 'Steep' crack to ledge. Walk off R to the 'Muldoon' rap anchor, or continue up the wall at the back of the terrace with a little roof at 4m.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1977

20Trad 38m
2 Blind Profit

Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.

Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz., 2007

21Mixed 30m, 2
3 Cauldron

Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric.

Start: Start just R of T.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1965

7Trad 60m
4 * Bat Out Of Hell

A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.

Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.

FA: Loughran + ?, late 80s.

FA: Kieran, 2000

16Trad 30m
5 ** Hell For Leather

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

13Trad 30m
6 * Tantalus

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

  1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

  2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

FA: Dick Salt, Jim Newlands, Alan Marsland, 1965

7Trad 35m
7 ** Surface To Air

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of 'Muldoon'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Tantalus'.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

17Trad 30m
8 Evading Infra-Red

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

  1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

  2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Julian Oldmeadow, 1991

24Mixed 35m, 1

1.6.4. Muldoon Area 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Muldoon, Curved Air and Fail Safe start at the base of the Atridae and climb the Main Wall.

The other routes are on the neighbouring buttresses- Iphigenia and Clytemnaestra.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Muldoon

Needs to be moved to the 'House of Atreus' section.

  1. 20m (13)

  2. 22m (12) Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.

FA: Peter Jackson, Reg Williams, 1965

13Trad 42m
2 Curved Air

As for 'Muldoon' for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to continue up 'Muldoon' to it's rap anchors.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Dave Moss, 1979

23Trad 10m
3 Fail Safe

As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave to manky fixed sling. Tricky past this then join a much easier flake in the middle of the face R of 'Muldoon'. It's not clear whether it rejoins 'Muldoon' at the big break 12m below the top, or whether it continues up the intermittent cracks a few metres R of 'Muldoon'.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Geoff Little, 1979

25Trad 10m
4 * The Illiad Connection

Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of 'Fail Safe'.

Start: Start as for Iphigenia.

  1. 28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.

  2. 12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Meg Sleeman (Pitch 1). As described :Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1998

18Trad 40m
5 * lphigenia

Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold.

Start: Start at the chimney between Iphigenia Buttress and 'Clytemnaestra Buttress' (ie start as for Clytemnaestra).

  1. 30m (17) Up initial chimney then the shallow steep groove on L, over 2 overhangs to ledge.

  2. 15m (16) Start on the left, or with some bold moves on the right, to gain the slender tower above, brittle rock, to airy exit.

FA: Reg Williams, Peter Jackson, 2000

17Trad 45m
6 Clytemnaestra

The slick chimney.

Start: Start at the chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the 'Clytemnaestra Buttress'.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, 19th Dec

12Trad 45m
7 * Clytemnaestra Buttress

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.

  2. 22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.

FA: Garry Kerkin, Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, 1965

10Trad 45m

1.6.5. Agamemnon Area 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.

Descent Notes:

Walk L to the rap anchors above Muldoon (35m abseil). Or go R along the cliff top and down the gully

There are rap stations at the top of Collision Course and Female Friends (30m abseils).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nanga Parbat Solo

Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Mike Law, solo, 1982

20Trad 10m
2 Raven

No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up 'Crows in the Snow'.

Start: Start between NPS and CitS.

FA: George Fieg, Dave Gray, 1992

26Mixed 12m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Crows in the Snow

Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.

Poor rock and gear.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.

FA: Paul Tattersall, Chris Shepherd, 1982

FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan, Malcolm Matheson), 1982

23Trad 20m
4 Gay Olympics

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

FA: Mike Law, Ian Anger, 1983

25Mixed 20m, 3
5 ** Golden Gaytime

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

25Mixed 30m, 3
6 ** Collision Course

Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.

Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Geoff Little, 1979

22Trad 50m
7 Guessing Game

Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF and keeps traversing across to CC. Superceded by FF.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981

23Mixed 40m, 3
8 ** Female Friends

An exciting face climb that is very sustained.

Start: Start as for GG.

FA: Mike Law, Mark Moorhead, 1981

24Mixed 45m, 5
9 Smooth Journey

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman, Glenn Tempest, 1976

15Trad 44m
10 *** Wizard of lce

Slick offwidthing with a good thrutch factor thrown in.

Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, 1975

20Trad 40m
11 *** Agamemnon

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, 1964

11Trad 40m
12 Madness

Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Stuart Hickson, 1982

24Mixed 15m, 1
13 Height of Fashion

Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Start: Start just R of M.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

28Trad 20m
14 * Electra

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.

Start: Start 5m R of A.

  1. 15m (19) The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress.

  2. 30m (19) Up the dwindling crack, then step R and up, careful of the rock up higher.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966

FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973

19Trad 45m
15 Mixed Blessing

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.

Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992

24Mixed 50m, 4
16 * Telemachus

Good, sustained route.

Start: Start a few metres R of E.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

19Trad 50m
17 * Telemachus Direct

Up T's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start as for T.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1981

24 RTrad 50m
18 Love That Pain

Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start: Start around R from T.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1985

27Mixed 40m, 1
19 Love that comfort

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2014

22Trad 24m
20 * Necrophilliac

Left curving crack with a few nice jams.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967

15Trad 25m
21 Cruxless Knickers

The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1978

17Trad 25m
22 Almost Completely Worthless

What's in a name?

Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1998

18Trad 10m
23 Running From the Martian

The crack R of a bush.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: S. Madoc, Sam Blainey, 1990

16Trad 15m
24 Suck Got Sick

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Start: Start as for RftM.

FA: Sam Blainey, S Madoc, 1990

17Trad 15m
25 What Is and What Should Never Be

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey, Jacquie Snow, 1991

18Trad 12m
26 * Hermione

Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

  2. 15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1998

16Trad 40m

1.7. Organ Pipes Area 133 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845129, -36.761184

Approach:

Short walk from the camping ground.

1.7.1. Organ Pipes Gully 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845524, -36.761504

Description:

The pinnacles above and behind the Organ Pipes. The gully is the descent for climbs in the Organ Pipes.

Approach:

Approach via the track at the back of D Minor Pinnacle.

1.7.1.1. Steel Delinquency Pinnacle 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The SE most pinnacle of the Organ Pipes. The main wall faces S towards the Atridae.

Approach:

From the big gully R of the Atridae.

1.7.1.2. Organ Pipes Gully Left Side 36 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.7.1.3. Organ Pipes Gully Right Side 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:

1.7.2. Organ Pipes 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844740, -36.760869

Description:

Lots of popular beginner's climbs close to camp.

Approach:

Short walk uphill from the camping ground.

1.7.2.1. D Minor Pinnacle 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The completely separate pinnacle at the L end of the Organ Pipes.

Descent Notes:

Rap station at the top.

1.7.2.2. Piccolo Pipe 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The pipe just R of D Minor Pinnacle.

Descent Notes:

Scramble down the back.

1.7.2.3. D Major Pipe 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Descent Notes:

Traverse off the back or rap from the station at the top of Stentor.

1.7.2.4. Diapason Pipe 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.7.2.5. Didgeridoo Pipe 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Descent Notes:

Rap from chains at top of Didgeridoo.

1.7.2.6. The Red Wall 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The orange upper wall behind Didgeridoo.

Approach:

Climb any of the routes from Keyboard to Horn Piece or solo up the gully between Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo Pipe.

Descent Notes:

Rap station at top of Tannin (30m abseil).

1.7.2.7. Toccata Wall 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

R of Didgeridoo Pipe

Descent Notes:

Scramble up and L then down Organ Pipes Gully.

1.7.3. Rabbit Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.847196, -36.761231

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eye of the bunny

Left to right over nose. Sit start.

V2Boulder 2m
2 Over the eye V1Boulder
3 Ear of the Bunny V0Boulder 3m
4 Face and scoop V0Boulder
5 Crack V0Boulder
6 Bunny Blowjob

Over the nose

16Trad 3m
7 Obvious Problem on Back Left V2Boulder
8 Over the Nose of the Bunny V3Boulder
9 Traverse the whole Bunny V5Boulder

1.8. Central Gully 411 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842627, -36.758900

Description:

The broad gully slightly W (Right) of the camping ground.

Approach:

5-15 minutes walk from the camping ground.

1.8.1. Central Gully Left 170 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.843002, -36.759851

Description:© (koala)

The continuation of the cliffline up the hill from the 'Organ Pipes'. Accessed from a branch in the track to the 'Organ Pipes' - please stick to the existing track.

Approach:© (koala)

The areas are ordered in rising progression up the gully (i.e. L to R).

1.8.1.1. Leafy Quoit Lump 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The mossy lump on the way to the cliff.

1.8.1.2. Operation Leo Area 20 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The gully between the Organ Pipes and Central Gully Left.

Approach:© (willmonks)

This area is up the gully between the 'Organ Pipes' and 'Central Gully Left' Side. More specifically, it's between Alchyne Wall and 'Brick Wall'.

1.8.1.3. Brick Wall 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.844550, -36.760639

Description:

The orange wall to the R of the gully between the Organ Pipes and Central Gully Left.

1.8.1.4. Golden Fleece Wall 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.843910, -36.760367

Description:

The cliff between Brick Wall and Moby Dick Pinnacle.

Approach:© (koala)

Descent is by way of a rap anchor at the right end of the wall, just L of the top of the 'Dylan' chimney. When walking from the top of the leftmost few routes, be careful of the exposed section above Jason.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchor at the R end of the wall, L of the top of Dylan's chimney

1.8.1.5. Moby Dick Pinnacle 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.843436, -36.760158

Description:

The obvious pinnacle, separated from the R end of Golden Fleece Wall, at the point where the track meets the cliff.

Approach:© (koala)

Descend by scrambling down the gully/chimney (careful!) between the 'Moby Dick Pinnacle' and 'Golden Fleece Wall'. There is rap rings above 'Horrorscope' (route #5) on 'Moby Dick' Pinnacle

Descent Notes:

Scramble carefully down the chimney between the Moby Dick Pinnacle and Golden Fleece Wall.

Rap anchor above Horrorscope.

1.8.1.6. Stoat Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The broad orange wall R of Moby Dick Pinnacle.

1.8.1.7. Dino Pillar 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The first slim pillar R of Stoat Wall.

1.8.1.8. Pebbles and Bam Bam 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The orange pinnacle 40m R of Stoat Wall. The two chalky cracks that split the front are Pebbles and Bam Bam.

1.8.1.9. Coyote Wall 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The recessed wall past Bam Bam.

1.8.1.10. Wuss Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The small orange wall on the L side of the gully R of Dhole and behind Wailing Wall.

1.8.1.11. Wailing Wall 19 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.842697, -36.759686

Description:

The large bluff up the gully from Wuss Wall.

1.8.1.12. Pritikin Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The orange buttress above Wailing Wall.

1.8.1.13. Dog Face 28 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.842370, -36.759578

Description:

50m R of Wailing Wall.

1.8.1.14. Hellspite Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.841996, -36.759407

Description:

The small wall just up from Dog Face.

1.8.1.15. Shattered Buttress 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.841605, -36.759223

Description:

The red wall up and R of Hellspite Wall.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Up R of Lemming Wall, and almost at the top of the ridge, is this red wall. It might be quicker to approach from one of the summit carparks.

1.8.1.16. Charity Buttress 20 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.841344, -36.758807

Description:

The low-angled wall downhill and R of Wailing Wall.

1.8.2. Upper Central Gully 111 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.841706, -36.757526

1.8.2.1. Deep Freeze Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.840846, -36.758174

Description:© (willmonks)

Although being located on the right side of the 'Central Gully' watercourse, this wall is left of the 'Central Gully' track and far closer to the left side crags than the right side crags. So, in a break with tradition, it has been put under 'Central Gully Left' side.

Approach:

Follow the Central Gully walking track and continue straight ahead where the track turns to the R.

1.8.2.2. Mari Buttress 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842223, -36.757951

Description:© (koala)

To descend, you can either abseil or walk. For an abseil, there are double ringbolts above 'Megalomaniac' and above 'Electric Warrior'. You can walk down either side of the buttress - going down beneath 'Garden Wall' is less scrambly than going down beneath Let's Do Lunch.

Approach:

Go up the Central Gully track, take the fork to the R just past where the track gets steep.

Descent Notes:

Rap stations above Megalomaniac and above Electric Warrior.

Or you can walk down either side of the buttress

1.8.2.3. Cecilia Wall 22 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842003, -36.757254

Approach:

From Mari Buttress go up the gully past Dyslexia.

Descent Notes:

Scramble down on the L.

1.8.2.4. Skyline Walls 33 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Approach:

Scramble up from the bottom of Cecilia Wall.

Or approach via Dreadnought Gully (Central Gully Right), coming up past Starless Buttress and the Copyright Area.

Descent Notes:

Rap station above Copyright. Or scramble down to the R.

1.8.2.5. Garden Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The black cliff R and uphill from Mari.

Descent Notes:

Downclimb the ramp at the L of the cliff and traverse L near the ground.

1.8.2.6. Everyfin, Everyfin, Like That & Everyfin 8 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Boulder, Trad and Unknown
Description:

The small wall just L of the walking track (as you head uphill), a bit further up from Mari's.

1.8.2.7. The Torture Chamber 9 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.841145, -36.757461

Description:

Steep and pumpy with roof problems and a long traverse. Good in the wet.

Approach:

Follow the track uphill another 50m from Everyfin, Everyfin and take a faint path off to the R. After another 50m you'll find the boulder.

Coming down from the road, the turnoff for the track is about 100m down where the track turns sharply L.

1.8.3. Central Gully Right 130 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.843463, -36.757600

1.8.3.1. Reaper Buttress 26 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.842857, -36.757727

Description:

The orange and grey tower with the scythe shaped slash across the main face (Reaper).

Approach:© (willmonks)

Descents: Rap stations have been added (~2003) above 'Reaper' (24m), Berserk (30m), and 'Taste Sensation', courtesy NBF.

Descent Notes:

Rap stations above Reaper, Berserk and Taste Sensation.

1.8.3.2. Preludes Wall 23 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.843439, -36.757903

Description:

The grey wall R of Reaper Buttress.

Approach:© (koala)

There is a rap station at the L end of the belay ledge - please don't rap off the pillars which are already too charred by rope burn.The rap anchor is further left than marked in topo. It's also possible to descend by walking R and then going down 'Dreadnought Gully' - but timid folk will want to abseil this way so the new rap station at the L end of the ledge is the way to go.

Descent Notes:

Rap station at the L end of the belay ledge. Or walk R and then down Dreadnought Gully

1.8.3.3. Minstrel Pinnacle 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.843407, -36.758027

Description:

The detached outcrop in front of Preludes Wall.

Descent Notes:

Rap from slings.

1.8.3.4. Starless Buttress 22 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.843570, -36.757571

Description:

The prominent buttress above Preludes Wall, between Skyline Wall and Dreadnought Gully. Wind Wall is the western side.

Approach:

Scramble of the L wall of Dreadnought Gully then under a big chockstone.

Descent Notes:

Down the gully L of Wind Wall.

1.8.3.5. Dreadnought Gully 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.843795, -36.757851

Description:

A narrow chasm, cool in summer and sheltered from rain.

Approach:

From the Central Gully track, take on of the first tracks off to the R through boulders and then L along the base of the buttress.

Descent Notes:

Rap stations at the top of the first and second pitches of Dreadnought, and the first pitch of No Exit.

1.8.3.6. Dunes Buttress 30 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.844014, -36.757593

Description:

The prominent buttress immediately L of Major Mitchell Gully.

Approach:© (koala)

Approach by walking left of 'Fang Buttress' and then up along the base of 'Morfydd' Wall.

Descent Notes:

Scramble over the summit to find the road the head L until you find the sign-posted track down Central Gully.

It is also possible to cross the ridge and downclimb to Missing Link then descend via Ali's.

Either way it's a bit of an epic but DO NOT attempt the rap down Major Mitchell Gully. The pin is old and dodgy.

1.9. Fang Buttress and Surrounds 159 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 141.845205, -36.758330

Approach:

A short walk from the camping ground. Head towards the big bluff.

1.9.1. Major Mitchell Gully 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844860, -36.757652

1.9.1.1. Morfydd Wall 27 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The long grey wall running along Major Mitchell Gully.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors above Feral Chicken, Morfydd and a couple of others. Or scramble down Ali's.

1.9.1.2. Ali's Area 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

The wall directly behind Fang Buttress.

Descent Notes:

Downclimb Ali's- follow the chains into the gully. Or rap from the station on the ledge behind Jogn's Pinnacle (45m abseil).

1.9.2. Fang Buttress 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845697, -36.757833

Description:

The large outcrop behind the Plaque and in front of Ali's.

Descent Notes:

Crawl through the hole at the top of the buttress (opposite Ali's) then walk down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cosmos

Straight up with terrible pro. Toproping recommended.

Start: Start in the middle of the grey wall L of O-W.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

24 XTrad 10m
2 Hot Finger

Follow the BRs.

Start: Start just L of O-W.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

26Mixed 10m, 3
3 * Orc-Wood

A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall.

Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

15 RTrad 12m
4 Vaunted

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins, Jane Wilkinson, 1983

20 RTrad 25m
5 Deac's Route

The areteleft of Kamakaze

23Mixed 1
6 The Bitter End

Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt.

Start: Start just L of K.

FA: Jim Thomas, Chris Shepherd, 1983

23Mixed 18m, 1
7 Kamikaze

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor, 1968

16Trad 20m
8 Towelled Off

Up the middle of the face between K and DA.

Start: Start just R of K.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

24Mixed 20m, 1
9 Dead Ahead

Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish.

Start: Start as for TO.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Barry Young, Simon Parsons, 1978

23Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Ferrets and Berts

Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).

Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

23 RMixed 30m, 1
11 ** XI

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson, 1976

18 RTrad 30m
12 * Counting the Days

Originally given 25.

Start: Start as for 'Placements'.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

25Mixed 20m, 1
13 * Placements

Climb easy corner to ledge, then step right and ascend right-trending crack line/weakness via a series of sidepulls and gastons. Powerfully sustained at the grade and bombproof gear. Finish easily up right arete of the XI face (left of Fang).

Start: Start 1.5m L of F at the corner in the small alcove.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1980

25Trad 25m
14 Fang

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

18Trad 25m
15 * Strolling Direct Start

Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux.

Start: Start 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'.

FA: Gordon Poulteney

26Mixed 20m, 3
16 * Hyperlink

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

27Mixed 25m, 6
17 ** Strolling

Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead.

Start: Start 8m R of Fang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

23Mixed 25m, 1
18 ** Strolling Right Hand Variant

Up the steep face then move L below the bulge past poor PR (there's a good sneaky wire instead). Now pull over the bulge and, ignoring the new bolt of 'Ergonomics' on the R, trend L up the runout face to join the finish of 'Strolling'.

Start: Start 3m R of S.

FA: Chris Shepherd

25 RMixed 25m, 2
19 *** Ergonomics

Excellent long-overlooked addition that essentially is a direct finish to 'Strolling' RHV.

Start: Start as for 'Strolling' RHV.

FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones

26Mixed 20m, 5
20 ** Wagalak

There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Mantis'.

FA: Dave Jones, 2005

29Sport 17m, 3
21 * Mandible

Wagalak's chains unfortunately were a retrobolt of this route. But on the upside, if you lower off the chains this is possibly the best wet weather 19 at 'Arapiles'. Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it until 2m below the roof. Now traverse left along the break for 8m to the arête (where you will now find Wagalak's chains). Finish straight up the nice cracked arête. Unless you like ropedrag, use double ropes or split it into two pitches at the chains.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

19Trad 41m
22 Victarctica

Climbable even in the eponymous weather...one of the driest routes at Araps! Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it for about 6m. Now step L onto the steep orange left wall and up this over the bulge (grade 23 climbing with dicky gear) to the break (the traverse on Mandible). Continue up Mandible or Preying.

FA: Will Monks, Peter Monks, 2009

24 RTrad 25m
23 Preying

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, 2004

18Trad 37m
24 Mantis Variant Finish

As for 'Mantis' to the recess under the roof, now take the left end of the overhang and up the corner above, rejoining 'Mantis' near the top. There is a piton somewhere on this.

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Phillip McMillan, Rod Young, 1979

16Trad 33m
25 * Mantis

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: Start at the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull, 1965

14Trad 33m
26 Downward Bound

Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'.

FA: Mike Law, Glenn Tempest, 1976

15Trad 25m
27 Fear of Praying

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, Roger Murphy, 1976

11Trad 33m
28 Pulpy Kidney

Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete.

Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind.

FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden, 1982

23Mixed 15m, 2
29 The Wizard

Layback a pin-scarred flake with poor pro, then directly up wall above.

Start: Start 5m R of PK.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

16 RTrad 20m
30 Petard

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little, Patrick Over, 1997

13Trad 40m
31 Thibenzol

Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall.

Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy.

FA: Smith, Pritchard, Hoskins, 1995

15Trad 15m
32 * A Bit on the Side

Not much pro.

Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, Pritchard, 1995

20 RTrad 10m
33 I'd give Both My Ankles to do a route this close to camp

The full description provided is "Right of Mantle". Hmmm. Maybe a repeat of Downward Bound? Maybe somewhere else entirely? Who knows.

FA: Richard Smith, 2006

16Trad 25m
34 Skybax Rider

Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'.

Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard.

FA: Keith and Tim Lockwood, 1995

10Trad 20m
35 Liver Little

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

FA: Hoskins, Bride and Wilkins, 1995

19Trad 15m

1.9.3. Plaque 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845928, -36.757790

Description:

The large block in front of Fang and Bard buttresses. Named for the large commemorative plaque attached to the face.

Approach:

2 minute easy walk from the campsite.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 They Shoot Horses Don't They

A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers.

Start: Start on the far L.

FA: Matt Taylor, Peter Megens, Peter Cyganowski, 1977

20Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Tis-sa-ack

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up.

FA: Mike Law

18Trad 10m
3 The Nose of El Capitan

Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face.

FA: Mike Law

18 RTrad 10m
4 Jump Club

Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove.

FA: Mike Law

23 RTrad 10m
5 Age of Raisins / Age of Reason

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Jon Muir

18Trad 11m
6 Minimus

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey

14Trad 12m
7 Loop

The line between Minimus and Camelot.

FA: Mike Law

19Trad 12m
8 Camelot

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

FA: Phillip Stranger

10Trad 13m
9 * Maximus

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

FA: Peter Watson, Peter Megens

17Trad 13m
10 Cumelittle

Start left of the cave (as for Dramp). Up the face.

FA: Nick White and Dave Mudie

FA: Kim Carrigan and Greg Child

24Mixed 15m, 2
11 Everest Without Oxygen

Start left of cave (as for Dramp). Left from the bottom of the cave an up a thin seam.

FA: Col Reece

23 RTrad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 * Dramp

Start left of cave. Follow the chalk into and out of the cave.

FFA: Henry Barber

FA: Jphn Fahey, Peter Jackson

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

22 RTrad 15m
13 * Sonic Boom

A more compact little orange overhang you will not find. The steep section offers great moves on surprisingly good holds and is soft at the grade ... if you don't plug gear in the key holds.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Dramp'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

25Mixed 12m, 1
14 Chili Digits

Up to crappy old FH then trend L into SB.

Start: Start 2m R of SB.

FA: Tom Greenwood, Terry Tremble, 1989

24Mixed 10m, 1
15 Wilma Holds Her Own

As for FoF to piton, then L to seam.

Start: Start as for FoF.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Trad 12m
16 Fear of Flying

Downgraded to 21 by Simey, so you can probably expect it to be reachy.

Start: Start 5m R of SB.

FA: Nic Taylor, Kevin Lindorff, 1975

22Trad 12m
17 Dodgy Brothers

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

FA: Martin Lama, Graeme Smith, 1991

8Trad 10m
18 Doobie

Worthless pro!

FA: Andrew Thompson, 1975

20 RTrad 8m
19 * Angry Little Man

Short steep face, finish L as for Loboff.

Start: Start just R of D.

FA: Graham Jones, James Falla, 1986

23Trad 8m
20 Lobbail

Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.

FA: Someone, 2014

8Trad
21 * Lobboff

Up then traverse L across lip.

Start: Start 4m R of ALM.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Nic Taylor, 1975

16Trad 10m

1.9.4. Golden Streak Area Boulders 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.845804, -36.758842

1.9.4.1. Golden Streak Boulder 14 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846188, -36.758757

1.9.4.2. Swing Wing Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845704, -36.758637

1.9.4.3. Big Pointy Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845612, -36.759010

1.9.4.4. Unkown Boulder Golden Streak area 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
1.9.4.5. Molar Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846444, -36.758802

1.9.4.6. No Hands Boulders 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846133, -36.758573

Description:

As in Selected Climbs

1.9.4.7. Animal Acts 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845151, -36.759164

1.9.5. Krondorf Area Boulders 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844352, -36.758548

1.9.5.1. Krondorff Boulder 16 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844550, -36.758814

1.9.5.2. Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall 9 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844810, -36.758626

1.9.5.3. oops boulder 8 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Boulder, Trad and Unknown
1.9.5.4. Trackside Boulder 0 routes in Boulder
1.9.5.5. The Playground 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.843891, -36.758308

1.10. Bard Buttress 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845526, -36.757230

Approach:© (koala)

Note that a number of routes which actually climb the SE part of 'Bard Buttress' are not described here, but are instead under the Ali's area (found in the "Fang Buttress and Surrounds" section). They are put in that section because they start as for Ali's, at the top of the gully which divides 'Fang Buttress' from the 'Bard Buttress', and then head a bit right from there. As a result, this page describes all routes which are accessed from the gully itself or further right. The gully is fairly simple to scramble up and down, but there's several spots where you really don't want to fall off due to very nasty fall potential.

Several routes finish on the Bard Terrace, which is about 30m below the top of the buttress. To get off the Terrace you can do the final pitch of one of the other routes, but it's quickest to do an easy but very exposed walk/traverse off the left end of the ledge, which leads you into Ali's after about 40m. This traverse is often soloed but roping up for it isn't a bad idea.

To descend from the routes which go right to the top, you need to do a short little downclimb off the back of the buttress, which deposits you very close to Ali's cave. Then go through the cave, R around John's Pinnacle and down Ali's.

Descent Notes:

From the top of the buttress there's a short down-climb off the back of the buttress to Ali's cave. Go through the cave and come out at John's Pinnacle. Go R and down Ali's. There are chains to rap down (45m). Or it's a fairly easy, but in places exposed, scramble down Ali's.

For routes that finish at the Bard terrace you can either climb Bard's 5th pitch or traverse L off the end of the terrace (roping up recommended) and scramble down to Ali's.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Disguise the Limit

Reachy over the L side of the roof past a piton, then easily up a groove to a rap station.

Start: Start in a cave up near the top of the gully.

FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden, 1982

20Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Redd Tracy

From the R side of the cave follow jugs out to the lip then a hard move to a break and straight up to rap anchor.

Start: Start just R of DtL.

FA: Rod Young (traversed off R after the crux)(Mike Law added the direct finish to the rap station onwith Steve Howden), 1982

24Trad 20m
3 Malfunction Man

Committing roof then up to a ledge shared with 'Orpheus'. Now traverse R to a rap anchor (which may or may not exist or be useable).

Start: Start R of RT.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Colyvan, 1983

23 RTrad 30m
4 A Group of Thrutching (Thracian) Women

Individual pitch grades were not supplied - overall grade is 18 but some pitches may be easier.

Start: Start: As for 'Orpheus'.

  1. 25m (18) Follow obvious and contrived line diagonally left, being careful not to step into gully.

  2. 10m (18) Up hideous grovel on left end of 'Redd Tracy' ledge. Belay when possible.

  3. 15m (18) Follow line up until it meets 'Directathal' and reverse first moves of this route to join Alis!

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Debra Sweet (1st pitch), Richard Smith, Deb Sweet and Jon Bassindale (2nd and 3rd pitches)., 1999

18Trad 50m
5 ** The Desired / Tony's Route

Later became Tony's Route (the present direct line), though 90% of it had been climbed in the 1960's as 'The Desired'.

Start: Start below the pitch 1 corner of 'Orpheus'.

  1. 45m (19) Directly up into the cruxy corner, then continue steeply up direct crack to a small stance.

  2. 30m (14) Much easier and less good climbing takes you to the Bard Terrace. Solo off left from here or climb the last pitch of Bard or the wide corner.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter in climbing Orpheus solved the initial crux. Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger established The Desired by climbing in from Orpheus, June 1967. The direct line as it now is, Tony Dignan, Guy Cotter, Mike Law,, 1981

19 to 20Trad 60m
6 Orpheus

Start: Start 15m up the gully, at an orange ledge.

  1. 18m (-) Traverse R on pale rock then up corner to belay at guano niche on the R.

  2. 43m (19) Originally done in 3 pitches. Up the L-trending ramp (move R around a hard bit).

  3. 18m (-) An overhang then up R.

  4. 33m (-) 'Steep' flake on L then up loose ledges.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

19Trad 110m
7 *** Eurydice

A fine old classic that has just about everything in it's two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

Start: On the E face of the 'Bard Buttress' there is a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

  1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

  2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

FA: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, 1965

18Mixed 70m, 1
8 Bbruce

Up E until you have a roof on your right. Traverse R here, then up over bulge past BR and straight up to the nice ledge atop 'Eurydice' p1.

Start: Start as for E.

FA: Mike Law, Greg Garnham, 1981

23Mixed 35m, 1
9 * OPM

The steep sickle crack is a great alternative start for 'Poppies'. Finish up it.

Start: Start 2m R of E.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Greg Garnham, 1981

20Trad 15m
10 Noseburger Direct

Overall grade is 23, but it's not clear how hard each pitch is.

Start: Start 2m L of P.

  1. 15m (-) Bouldery flake, then up to ledge above flake.

  2. 30m (23) Directly up the arete to Bard's 2nd belay.

  3. 35m (23) Continue directly up arete to Bard Terrace.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, Geoff Robertson, 1981

23Trad 80m
11 * Poppies

Deduct a star and add a few grades if you do the original direct start and the final pitch.

  1. 35m (19) Start about 20m up L from The Bard and traverse R to an angular block/flake. (The original version started a few metres L of The Bard and climbed direct up the slick blank slab at 21). Up the flake then straight up to join 'Checkmate' for 7m before belaying just L of The Bard's 2nd belay.

  2. 35m (19) Punch through the low roof at a weakness 3m R of 'Eurydice', then blast up the great wall above staying a few metres L of the main arete.

  3. -m (-)

FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

21Trad 100m
12 Lubricant

The middle of the face, kinking R at one point.

Start: Start on the back of the boulder at the base of the 'Bard Buttress'.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Nick Tapp, 1990

18Trad 10m
13 ** Checkmate

Borderline whether it deserves the "serious" tag, but the crux is quite tricky, with spaced pro. Then again, you've got plenty of clean air up there, and it's still a great route.

Start: Start as for The Bard.

  1. 24m (9) Climb the initial slab of Bard and the corner cracks then belay at the start of the R-leading ramp.

  2. 20m (16) Pull up L from the ramp then traverse L above the bulge for 6m, then up the face a few metres L of the arete. Belay on the same ledge as The Bard's 2nd belay.

  3. 27m (17) Up the line on the R side of the main arete for 8m to a small roof. Now launch up left via steep exciting climbing to gain the next line, which gradually eases. Belay under the obvious roof.

  4. 12m (16) Step a bit R to get through the roofs without too much difficulty, to finish on the Bard Terrace.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

17 RTrad 120m
14 *** Bard

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

FA: Jim Newlands and Bruce Hocking, 1965

12Trad 120m
15 The Comedy of Errors

Start: Start as for The Bard.

  1. 34m (-) Up the initial slab of The Bard, but instead of gaining the ramp via the easy corner on the L, step R and up a crack to the ramp. Belay at the top of the ramp.

  2. 25m (20) Take the line just L of the arete to a ledge. The face above has a tough committing move (although you can avoid it on the R), after which you move L and go up the arete. Move R at the scary loose blocks then up to ledge.

  3. 14m (-) Climb the R crack (R of Bard p4) to the Bard Terrace.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews, Richard Morris, 1985

20Trad 73m
16 * Wall Street 22Trad 25m
17 Turning Point 22Trad 10m
18 * Heavy Dudes 22Trad 35m
19 Poppies pitch 3

Described separately so that 'Poppies' pitches 1 and 2 get noticed as a great 19. This pitch is all over after the start so it's not worth doing ... unless it's your best option to impress a hottie bumbly hanging around on Bard Terrace.

Start: Start on the Bard Terrace, a few metres L of the final pitch of Bard.

FA: Mike Law or Kevin Lindorff, 1977

23Trad 30m
20 Shepherds in Love

Take a line just L of 'Eurydice' p2, with a steep flake down low then a loose wall above.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Eurydice'.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Dennis Kemp, 1981

18Trad 32m
21 The Desired Variant Start

Move up then follow the underclings R across 'Orpheus' to join the upper part of p1 of TD.

Start: Start up L from the start of 'Orpheus'.

FA: Robin Miller, Louise Shepherd, 1982

18Trad 25m
22 ** Wall Turning Dudes

Each pitch was established independently, and you can repeat them that way if you wish. Linking them into one route is the way to go, however.

Start: Start R of The Bard.

  1. 30m (22) 'Wall Street' (*). Mossy start then jam through the roof, and doddle up the ramp to belay atop pitch 1 of The Bard.

  2. 10m (22) Turning Point. From the top of The Bard pitch 1, step L and take the seam. Then blindly L around the bulge and up to the 2nd belay of The Bard.

  3. 35m (22) Heavy Dudes (*). Work your way up the white groove R of 'Checkmate' pitch 3 and left of The Bard pitch 3. There's a loose block. At the bulge, awesome moves head L then up the leaning headwall.

FA: p1 Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1980

FA: p2 Mark Moorhead, Tony Dignan, Geoff Little, 1980

FA: p3 Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Greg Garnham, 1981

22Trad 75m
23 Eurydice RHF

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the right one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

19Trad 35m
24 Eurydice LHF

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the left one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on the Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

19Trad 30m

1.11. Bluffs 102 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844569, -36.756917

Description:

Bluff Major and Bluff Minor are the two huge blocks perched above Tiger Wall.

Approach:

Via Ali's or a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

1.11.1. John's Pinnacle 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:©

Large block perched above 'Ali's'. If it's windy it will be very windy here.

Approach:©

Easiest would be to climb 'Ali's', but you could also do any of the routes on 'Morfydd Wall', 'Bard Buttress' or 'Under Flinders Lane Wall' and then squeeze through Ali Babas Cave.

Descent Notes:©

Abseil from ring bolts on N side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Allez

Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a BR on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

Start: Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, 1982

24Mixed 25m, 2
2 Atomic Fusion

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Start: Start as for H.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

26Mixed 25m, 3
3 Homegrown

Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

Start: Start at the arete just R of 'Allez'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger, 1980

23Mixed 25m, 1
4 Flappers' Delight

Up the juggy wall.

Start: Start on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to 'Denim' Wall.

FA: John Fahey, Ted Batty, Chris Baxter, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson, 1965

4Trad 16m
5 Nostalgia

Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

Start: Start on the west face of the Pinnacle.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

23Mixed 20m, 1
6 Piggy in the Middle

Up S for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1986

23Mixed 27m, 1
7 Shoadee

Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

14Trad 24m
8 Let Me Cry

Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of 'Shoadee'.

Start: Start down R of 'Shoadee'.

FA: Jon Muir, solo, 1985

25 XTrad 30m
9 * Shalimar

Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start: Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez).

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

18Trad 31m
10 Shanghai 18Trad 30m
11 I'll Nail You

Straight up to the overhangs highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 'Nostalgia'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

25 XTrad 17m
12 The Invisible Hand

From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with 'Shalimar' and finish up left. Spaced wires.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Let Me Cry'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

24 RTrad 26m
13 Handle with Care

Start: \"Start variant 2m right left of 'Let Me Cry'\" - whatever that means!

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

23 RTrad 8m

1.11.2. Denim Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vixen

Start: Start at the L end of 'Denim' Wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

  2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up 'Denim' for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

22Trad 45m
2 ** Concise Exercise

Sustained.

Start: Start 12m up L from the start of 'Denim', part way up 'Vixen' but access via ledge.

FA: Scott Camps, Paul Johnston, 1988

26Mixed 35m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Denim

Start: Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) 'Steep' thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Clive Parker (aid), 1968

26Mixed 45m, 2
4 ** London Calling

Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).

Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

27Mixed 30m, 3
5 ** Balance of Power

Very bouldery past the first bolt then continuous past 4 more bolts, then finish off to the right where Concise Excercises finishes (no anchor).

Start: Start R of LC.

FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993

29Mixed 30m, 5
6 ** Balance of Power Direct Finish

Originally given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

Start: Start as for BoP.

FA: Nathan Hoette

31Mixed 30m, 7
7 See You Round

Very tough at the grade.

Start: Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba\'s Cave.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

26Trad 20m

1.11.3. Bluff Minor 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The eastern half of the bluffs.

Approach:

Scramble through Alis Baba's cave (right of Denim Wall) and up.

Descent Notes:

Down climb the short wall facing the gap and around R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bluff Minor

Start: Start by going R from Ali Baba\'s Cave, and scrambling up to a ledge below the southeast face of 'Bluff Minor', looking over the Pines.

  1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

  2. 35m (-) 'Steep' to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

  3. 10m (-) Up to the summit. Good luck with getting back down!

FA: Rob Taylor, Reg Williams, 1965

12Trad 55m
2 Violent Crumble

Climb up the vague weakness on crap rock with no pro.

Start: Start 2m R of the north arete of 'Bluff Minor' (this is just opposite TKO on Bluff Major).

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

21 XTrad 15m
3 ** Boston's Climb

Take a massive leap across the chasm onto the east face of 'Bluff Major', with only a small sloping foothold to aim for. Now climb the arete.

Start: Start on top of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Peter Jackson, 1960s, 2000

-- RTrad 30m
4 * Mouse 7Trad 45m
5 Locksmith

Start 5m R of 'Bulger' DS.

  1. 10m (20) Roof crack then go 4m R.

  2. 15m (22) Diagonally L up weakness through roof then up to ledge.

  3. 17m (18) Finish up just R of the arete to the summit of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

22Trad 42m
6 * Raison d'Etrier

Start: Start on the ledge R of 'Locksmith' (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).

  1. 10m (22) Crack through roof

  2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

22Trad 30m
7 Dead and Buried

Start just R of Rd\'E, and as for 'Vixen' pitch 2.

  1. 10m (22) Up face and roof as for p2 of 'Vixen' then move L to belay.

  2. 20m (22) Step L, and then up as directly as you can, about 1.5m L of pitch 2 of Rd'E.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb, 1981

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb (pitch 1 only), 1981

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Chris SHepherd, 1982

22Trad 30m
8 Mouse

Chimney out above the 'Keyhole' towards 'Central Gully', then move around arete onto the south face of 'Bluff Minor', which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

Start: Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

7Trad 45m

1.11.4. Flinders Lane Area 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

This is actually the lower tier of Bluffs Major east face but is commonly known as the Flinders Lane Area as the routes begin on Flinders Lane, which runs along the top of Tiger Wall.

Approach:

Via Ali Baba's cave (R of Denim Wall), or climb a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

Descent Notes:

Traverse off R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sneaky Feelings

A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Start: Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1980

21 RTrad 12m
2 Modern Lovers

Thin corner with a bolt.

Start: Start 1.5m R of SF.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Glenn Tempest, 2000

25Mixed 15m, 1
3 Dancing Days

Start: Start 1m R of ML.

  1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

  2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

  3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham (Young later added p3 on), 1979

23Trad 45m
4 Tahini

Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Start: Start 3m R of DD.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

24Trad 10m
5 Inquisition

The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at 'Arapiles'. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

Start: Start above 'Tahini', 6m L of 'Aristocrat' (which is described in the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Dave Lia, 1978

M3Aid 20m, 1
6 Crazy Diamond

Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

Start: Start at the anchor above 'Inquisition'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim van Gelder, Rod Young, 1979

20Trad 15m
7 Being There

Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

21Trad 15m
8 Welcome Home

Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trendng R then L.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

21Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Aristocrat

Climb the chimney/corner. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates 'Bluff Minor' and 'Bluff Major'.

FA: John Moore, Phillip Stranger, 1966

18Trad 25m
10 The Last Laugh

Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, 4m R of the major cleft between 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor' (the cleft itself being 'Aristocrat' (18) which is described under the 'Bluff Minor' area).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

22 RMixed 25m, 1
11 Abdul

The foul thrutchy chimney.

Start: Start at the far L end of the ledge.

12Trad 12m
12 Ivan

The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start: Start just R of A.

FA: Unknown, 2000

13Trad 14m
13 Heart of a Dog

The face, leading into I near the top.

Start: Start 2m R of I.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

18Trad 12m
14 Scorpion Direct Start

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to 'Scorpion' but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the 'Blockbuster' Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17.

Start: Start 10m R of I.

FA: Roland and Anne Pauligk, 1966

17Trad 14m
15 * Moving Pictures

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

24 RTrad 15m
16 * Stop-Motion 30Trad 20m
17 *** Scorpion Corner

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Start: Start at the R facing corner, directly below 'Scorpion'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ed Neve, 1974

22Trad 25m
18 Imagination LHF

The unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

Start: Start as for I.

FA: Chris Peisker, 2000

XTrad 10m
19 * Imagination

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

Start: Start as for SC.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25Trad 20m
20 Imagination DS

Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Kim Carrigan

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Mixed 8m, 1

1.11.5. Bluff Major 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
Description:© (koala)

From ground level, just watching climbers high up on 'Scorpion' or 'Quo Vadis' will make your pulse quicken dramatically. 'Bluff Major' has three main areas: the north-facing 'Blockbuster' Wall, parallel to 'Tiger Wall' below it; the west-facing 'Missing Link' Wall, facing inwards to the ridge; and the south-facing 'Thunder Crack' Wall, high above 'Morfydd' Wall.

Approach:© (koala)

You can access routes 23-56 (e.g. 'Thunder Crack' and 'Missing' Link) by climbing Ali's (or by climbing any route on 'Morfydd' Wall) and then continuing to scramble up Ali's beneath the steep south face of the 'Bluffs'. On the other hand, routes 1-22 (everything on the north face) are best accessed by going through Ali's cave then walking along Flinders Lane. Routes 11-22 (e.g. 'Blockbuster' and Scorpion) start from 'Blockbuster' Ledge, this ledge being accessed via any of the lower routes (routes 1-10).

1.11.5.1. Bluff Major East Face 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The face visible from below Tiger Wall.

Approach:

Climb Ivan or one of the other routes on Flinders Lane.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

1.11.5.2. Bluff Major North Face 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Approach:

From the top of Ali's go L around John's Pinnacle then up the ramp beneath the West face.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

1.11.5.3. Bluff Major West Face 27 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
Description:

The wall that overlooks Central Gully.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

1.12. Tiger Wall Area 120 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844903, -36.756041

1.12.1. Tiger Wall 95 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844257, -36.756496

1.12.1.1. Seneca Wall 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Description:

The wall high up at the top of Tiger Wall, R of Bluff Major.

Approach:

Via Flinders Lane.

Descent Notes:

Downclimb the wall opposite Missing Link.

1.12.1.2. Under Flinders Lane Wall 61 routes in Sector
Summary:
Description:

The section of the wall underneath Flinders Lane. (ie The L end of Tiger Wall).

Approach:

5 minute walk from the campground.

Descent Notes:

Walk L along Flinders Lane. Go down into Ali Baba's cave then down and up through a tunnel that brings you out at the top of Ali's. Downclimb or rap down Ali's.

1.12.1.3. Syrinx Area 18 routes in Sector
Summary:
Description:

These routes are in the area near Syrinx which is the big orange corner with the balconies high above.

Approach:

10 minute walk from the campground.

Descent Notes:

Walk away from the cliff to the dirt road, turn L and follow the road. Then take he Central Gully tourist track (signposted) back down.

1.12.1.4. Senior Citizens Wall 9 routes in Sector
Summary:
Description:

The very R end of Tiger Wall.

Approach:

Sramble 40m up Pan gully (between Tiger Wall and Grotto Wall) then to a terrace on the L.

Descent Notes:

40m abseil from rap station above Senior Citizens.

1.12.2. Tiger Wall Boulders 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.845203, -36.755803

1.12.2.1. Roadside Crag 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846103, -36.755970

1.12.2.2. Crankshaft Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845531, -36.756412

1.12.2.3. Gonzo Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.845222, -36.756049

1.12.2.4. The Chicken Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.844987, -36.755681

1.12.2.5. Good Morning Arapiles 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.844350, -36.754621

Description:

Straight down from Castle Crag.

1.12.2.6. The Woody 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

A fallen tree

1.13. Castle Crag 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.843951, -36.755185

Description:

The detached pinnacle standing well away from the main cliff. Directly in front of Grotto Wall.

Approach:

10 min walk from campground, heading N.

Descent Notes:

20m abseil from rap station above Trapeze.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Low Down

Sensational jug hauling traverse

Start: Start as for 'Trapeze' & 'Swinging'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1984

25Trad 25m
2 Acrobat

Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, 1978

22Trad 20m
3 A Cut Above

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

19Trad 30m
4 Think Positive

As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Trad 22m
5 * Trapeze

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

FA: Russell Judge, Don Bennett, 31st Oct

11Trad 20m
6 ** Swinging

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Dave Mudie, 1976

17Sport 20m, 2
7 Siva

Excellent overhanging finger locking.

FA: Roger Caffin, John Zmood, Margaret James, 1966

FFA: Greg Child., 1978

22Trad 18m
8 * Siva Direct

As for Siva, instead of moving L into 'Swinging', head R and up past few BRs.

FA: Mark Moorhead., 1983

26Trad 20m
9 * The Overtaker

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Between Siva and 'The Undertaker' is a line of bolts.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2002

29Sport 18m
10 The Caretaker

FA: Dave Jones, 2013

Sport
11 *** The Undertaker

The first grade 25 in the country.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1965

FFA: Mike Law, Greg Child., 1978

25Trad 18m
12 Me and My Hamster

As for 'The Butterfly', but continue traversing across 'The Undertaker' and finish up 'Swinging'.

FA: John Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

25Trad 24m
13 The Butterfly

Follow 'Elusive Butterfly' to 2nd piton, then traverse L, almost into 'The Undertaker', then climb up R into groove.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

25Trad 18m
14 Elusive Butterfly

Probably the best of this trio of hard routes just R of 'The Undertaker'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

24Trad 18m
15 Cunrack

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

FA: Andrew Smith, Glen Devereaux., 13th Jun

14Trad 16m
16 Blow Up

Tries to free an ugly bolt ladder, but bails when the going gets too hard.

FA: Tim Hancock, Andrew Thomson, 1969

FFA: Mark Moorhead., 1980

25Trad 12m
17 Apocalypse Now!

Up the the seam past a fixed peg.

Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Mick Colyvan, Marty Beare., 1983

22Trad 5m
18 Red Baron

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

23Trad 18m
19 Red Baron Direct Start

Probably one of the first routes at the grade in the country? These days it rarely gets repeated.

Start: To the R of 'Blow Up' is a poorly protected groove.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

23Trad 18m
20 The Hun

Reachy moves up the R side of the wall facing the campsite, past a piton and not much else for gear.

Start: Traverse in from the start of Procul Harem (easy but exposed - you might want to rope up).

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1965

16Trad 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 * Iron Cross

Originally freed with the aid of a fixed peg placed on abseil. It's gone now thanks to the Law of Ethical Entropy, but small cams will do fine.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Chris Peisker., 1978

24Trad 14m
22 Mickey Finn

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter., 1965

15Trad 16m
23 Kor

Climb the slimey, curving crack, past a few old pitons, to the ledge.

Start: At far L end of lower wall (below 'Iron Cross' and Mickey Finn).

FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967

FFA: John Smart., 1978

24Trad 10m
24 Dynamic

Originally done with a fixed wire, this is now a popular top rope problem.

Start: About 10m R of Kor is a thin seam.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

24Trad 10m
25 Cheap Chills

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

FA: Martin Lama, Graeme Smith

17Trad 10m
26 * Saturation Point

Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, 1969

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff.., 1976

21Trad 15m
27 Sausagemonger

Up the wall 1m R of SP (contrived at the beginning), until able to move R past tricky moves to jugs.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

24Trad 15m
28 * Warmonger

Climb the thin, attractive seam past a desperate crux.

Start: In the centre of the E face is a thin seam.

FA: Gornon Talbett, Peter McKeand, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

24Trad 18m
29 * L'inconscience Tranquil

After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.

Start: As for 'Warmonger'.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

29Trad 12m
30 *** Procol Harum

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

26Trad 25m
31 * Nati Dread

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

FA: Andy Pollit, 1990

30Mixed 30m, 5
32 * Nati Dread Direct

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007

31Sport 25m

1.14. Grotto Wall 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.843510, -36.755700

Description:

The buttress directly behind Castle Crag.

Descent Notes:

Scramble down the back of the gully behind Grotto Wall (Pan Grove). 20m abseil from the rap station on the big chockstone.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Llareggub Variant

The line, moving L then up at half height. Rap off Llareggub's DRB anchor.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Llareggub'.

FA: David Shelton, Tim Day, Erik Lock, 1996

22Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Llareggub

Originally graded 12... things were different back then!

Start: At a little painted "L" about 10m R of the L edge of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris., 1967

18Trad 15m
3 Factoids

Climb the wall L of The Flue; either directly (reachy to hidden fingerlock), or by stepping in L from a few metres up 'Hot August Night' (thin and poorly protected). If you can manage one or the other, finish at rap anchor.

FA: Robin Miller, Mike Collie, Craig Nottle., 1983

21Trad 15m
4 Hot August Night

Up 'Factoids' until rooflet, then step R and up blunt arete (pro a bit iffy). There is also a loose block up high, so don't go pulling it onto your belayer. Rap off as for 'Factoids'.

Start: As for 'Factoids'.

FA: Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh, Louise Shepherd., 1992

21Trad 15m
5 The Flue

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Garry Sudholz., 1967

12Trad 30m
6 * Bastress

The arching grey buttress between 'The Flue' and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

FA: Rod Harris, Dave Neilson., 1967

11Trad 36m
7 Nothing

Pretty contrived.

Start: Just R of 'Bastress'.

  1. 25m (22) Take the seam up L side of orange wall through bulge.

  2. 10m (23) Move L across 'Bastress' to the steep orange wall (actually the R wall of The Flue). The original description mentions to take crack 'n ups... so have fun.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (pitch 1), Mike Law, Steve Howden (pitch 2)., 1982

23Trad 25m
8 ** Body Recession

Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.

Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.

FA: Martin Scheel, 1989

27Mixed 15m, 3
9 Heart of Stone

One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain.

Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett, 1969

14Trad 27m
10 Toad in the Hole

Climb the slab past 2 bolts to the chains.

Start: The back wall of the grotto is a short slab.

FA: Steve Howden, Mike Law, 1982

20Mixed 12m, 2
11 Twenty-nine at the Quarry

Climb the slab R of TITH, clipping that route's 2nd bolt. Probably best to top-rope it from the chains after leading TITH.

Start: R of 'Toad in the Hole'.

FA: Charlie Creese, Robin Miller, 1985

21Trad 12m
12 Catch 22

Up chimney then traverse R (pin) to corner. Up this then move R (crux) to finish.

Start: At the chimney at the R end of the grotto.

FA: Rod Harris, Dave Neilson, 1967

FFA: Nic Taylor., 1976

19Trad 15m
13 Catch 22 Variant Finish

Keeps going straight up to access Toad's chains. Would've been done a 100 times before.

FA: Michael Hillan, Paul Badenoch

18Trad 12m
14 * Catch This

Up Catch 22 intil bolt on R can be clipped. Dive R for the catch, then layback the desperate flake to the arete and finish in the chimney.

Start: As for Catch 22.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Anger, 1982

23Mixed 15m, 1
15 * Hot Coq

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

FA: Nick White, 1992

27Mixed 15m, 5
16 Aussie Drivers

Head straight up. Maybe move L to rap off Hot Coq's anchor at the top?

Start: 4m R of 'Catch This'

FA: Michael Collie, Michael Totterdell, 1983

20Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Passion

Use pocket to get past the arch and then continue up to bulge (bolt). Pull through this (crux) and then ramble on to the top of the crag.

Start: About 8m L of 'Boomer'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

22Mixed 25m, 1
18 A Lusty Sequel

Climb the face L of 'Boomer' to the top of the crag. Wander off L to Pan Grove or 'Celeste' rap station.

Start: Just L of 'Boomer'.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

18Trad 45m
19 Valm

Start as for 'Boomer' and head into the gulch. Trash up this to the top.

Start: About 10m R of the grotto is a deep chimney/gully.

FA: Colin Lindorff, Bill van Muirs, 1970

15Trad 30m
20 Boomer

An ancient route with complicated FA details... if you want the full story then look in Noddy's guide. Chris and Sue Baxter climbed the wide crack option on pitch 1 on 8/5/1983.

Start: Below the gaping chimney/gully starting halfway up the cliff.

  1. 24m (15) Up to the overlap (peg), where hard moves past this on the left leads to chimney/crack. Best option is to take the wide crack on the right past a bulge, or continue up chimney to ledge on right.

  2. 18m (15) Continue up the steep crack (on the L) to ledge. Belay here, then scramble up and L to get off.

Start: Original description says: "half-way up Boomer's 1st pitch, direct variant leaves gully for the wide crack on R wall." hmmm...

  1. 25m (15) This probably means: climb Boomer's first pitch.

  2. 18m (14) And then finish up 'Squeaker'.

FA: Col Abbott, Jenny McMahon, 1965

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

15Trad 42m
21 * John and Betty

Popular sport route.

Start: Below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, just R of high gully

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992

23Sport 23m, 5
22 Amazing Lace Direct Start

Thin and poorly protected climbing leads to the original route. Finish up that.

Start: Just L of the original route.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Steve Moore, 1980

21Trad 23m
23 Amazing Lace

Climb into the 'line' from the R (contrived), and up wall to John and Betty's rap station.

Start: R of 'John and Betty', and just L of 'Squeaker'.

FA: Steve Moore, Chris Shepherd, 1980

21Trad 23m
24 Squeaker

Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.

Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.

  1. 23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer'.

  2. 18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer'.

FA: Possibly John Moore and Chris Dewhirst, 1965

14Trad 41m
25 Thingummyjig or Something Similar

Up black face to little overhang (crux, small cams) at 3/4 height.

Start: A few metres R of Square

FA: Dennis Kemp, Dave Mudie, 1987

18Trad 38m
26 Tich

Up wall, passing roof on the L to big ledge at 30m. Walk off here, or take optional finish up V-chimney.

Start: 5m R of 'Squeaker', below prominent ceiling/nose up higher.

FA: Digby and Alison Gotts, 1971

17Trad 40m
27 Rites of Passage

Can be used to access 'Golden Oldies' Wall, if you're into that sort of thing.

Start: 5m R of 'Tich' at foot of slab.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Jack Lewis, 1986

19Trad 25m
28 Captain Vomit

The LH diagonal.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

18Trad 20m
29 Lord of the Ring-Holes

The RH diagonal. After the corner, move R through bulge and up to overhang above.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

20Trad 25m
30 Sir Francis Goose

Up groove to bulge. Take the line L of the overhanging nose on massive jugs.

Start: 3m R of LOTRH is a groove.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

19Trad 25m
31 Chairman Meow

Climb the wall 2m R of SFG, trending slightly R. Take the line R of bulge.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

18Trad 25m
32 A New Fridge

The beautiful, but "all too short" thin crack starting well up the face.

Start: Start just L of 'No More Gaps'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1998

17Trad 10m
33 No More Gaps

Follow cracks up R-wards to a bold finish up the R arete of the gully face.

Start: Start in the gully around L of 'Argyle Street' at a grassy patch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1998

16Trad 12m

1.14.1. Pan Grove 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Climbs that either start from Pan Grove or from the great diagonal terrace above, but not on Tiger Wall.

Descent Notes:

Scramble down the gully to 25 metre abseil from chains.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fox Tales

Amble up the crappy rock, finishing up the arête overhanging the gully to the L.

Start: At foot of L end of buttress at the top of Pan Grove - about 15m R of 'Rat on Roller Skates' (on Tiger Wall).

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Mike Stone., 1986

15Trad 30m
2 Golden Oldies

It's scary to think they called the route this way back then!

Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Jack Lewis, 1986

12Trad 30m
3 Boys Keep Swinging

Climb the wall to a ledge, then move L to line up the overhanging arête. Steeply to another ledge and finish to the R.

Start: A fair way R of 'Golden Oldies' is a narrow buttress.

FA: Chris Baxter, Eric Jones., 1986

21Trad 20m
4 Rock and Roll Suicide

Up the wall to a ledge and then climb R edge of way to loose blocks (scary) and another ledge. Traverse L past loose blocks (scary) for 2m to a small corner and then up this.

Start: 1m R of Boys is a mossy wall.

FA: Pritchard, Hoskins, Muir., 1993

18Trad 20m
5 * Stepping Out Direct Finish

Where 'Stepping Out' traverses R, continue up the arete past a fixed wire.

Start: As for 'Stepping Out'.

FA: Roland Foster, Phil Bigg., 1984

25Trad 40m
6 * Stepping Out

Up thin diagonal line (possibly past a fixed wire) to a ledge. Traverse right past a BR (reachy clip - so have a wire ready), then move up the wall (cruxy). Move R and then over the bulge to the top.

Start: Scramble up the gully to the base of the L arete of the orange buttress.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd., 1981

25Trad 40m
7 * Celeste

In the shade for most of the day, so a good one to do when's it's hot.

Start: Below the L-facing grey corner at the R end of the wall.

FA: Rein Kamar, Bill Andrews., 1969

16Trad 40m

1.14.2. The Bat Cave 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

The home of 'Living With A Hernia'

Approach:

Located at the very top of Pan Grove this area is easiest approached from above. From the Disabled lookout, tracking right, facing out (south-east), along the cliff edge. Just downhill from the bouldering area Islamabad. There is an easy descent to the left of the block (facing out).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roughing Minors

Not that nice.

Start: The crackline left of 'Living With a Hernia'.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1995

25Trad 10m
2 *** Living With a Hernia

Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003

30Sport 10m, 3
3 * The Hunchback of Natimuk

Takes the overhanging crack just R of 'Living With a Hernia'.

FA: 'Strong' Wally, 2000

24Trad 10m

1.15. Voodoo Area 100 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842156, -36.754836

1.15.1. New Image Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842697, -36.755262

Description:

The wall to the L of Rats Alley.

Descent Notes:

23m abseil from rap station above Hidden Secrets.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Undergraduate

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1973

13Trad 90m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Continuum

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

22Trad 25m
3 *** New Image

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line, marked "NL".

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, Peter Newman, 1979

20Trad 25m
4 * Loading Zone

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan, 1979

22Trad 25m
5 * Fault Line

Follow the arching line to the end of the roof. A reachy clip and a tricky crux make way for an easy finish up 3m R of 'New Image'

Start: At the base of the obvious line snaking up the crag.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

24Trad 30m
6 Je Suis Un Legend

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

FA: Douglas Hockley

20Trad
7 ** Hidden Secrets

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman, 1979

22Trad 25m
8 * Linear Transformation

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, Peter Newman, 1979

22Trad 25m
9 Crayons

Another bouldery start. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

22Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Crooked Mile

Boulder up to horizontal break (or move up chimney a few moves then move in from R). Traverse L until crack and up that, then trend L to get to rap station.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Lincoln Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1981

18Trad 25m
11 * Blackguard

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lucas Trihey, Seamus Brennan. (Independent start was soloed by Kim Carrigan), 1981

22Trad 25m

1.15.2. Rats Alley 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The recess between Voodoo Buttress and the main wall.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Blyth Street or 20m abseil from slings above Tarantula.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Glory Road

Probably superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day.

Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

20Trad 30m
2 * Striptease Parade

Straightens out 'Glory Road', making for a much better route.

Start: At L end of ledge, as for 'Glory Road'.

FA: Craig Peacock, Malcolm Matheson, 1980

20Trad 30m
3 * Osmond Terrace

As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.

Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.

FA: Nyrie Dodd, Louise Shepherd., 1985

21Trad 30m
4 Streetwise

A thin, almost-eliminate slab.

FA: Kieran Lawton, Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, Bec Pirzl, 2006

21Mixed 25m, 5
5 * Rat's Alley

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: Start on the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan, 1978

19 RTrad 30m
6 ** Blyth Street

Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.

Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Hugh Foxtrot, 1978

21Trad 35m
7 * Blyth Street Direct Start

Climb straight up to the bolt on Bltyh Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.

Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Warwick Baird, 2000

22Trad 12m
8 Deer Park Revisited

A short hard layback to L arete (rest). Move back R and up seam.

Start: From L end of ledge at half-height, near orange patch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, 1984

20Trad 15m
9 * Argyle Street

Climb straight up the orange wall.

Start: Below middle of orange patch.

FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

19Trad 15m
10 International Climbing Meat

Head diagonally R from 'Argyle Street' to the crack.

Start: Just R of 'Argyle Street'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Phil Wilkins, 1984

18Trad 15m
11 Nightmare on Elmes Street

Up seam, step L at top into main crack and finish L of wide crack above.

Start: 1m R of crack in centre of outcrop.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Heather Phillips, 1992

19Trad 15m
12 Brand X

Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.

Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

15Trad 12m
13 Nymph

Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.

Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang, 1967

16Trad 42m
14 Ckoff

"For historical reasons only..."

Start: Near 'Nymph'.

FA: Norm Osborne, 1970

16Trad 57m
15 * Crystal Prophet

Bridge up chimney then swing onto R face (no gear). Move across to flake and up to exciting exit on L. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.

Start: As for 'Nymph'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982

23Trad 25m
16 * Crystal Vision

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.

FA: John Smoothy, Mark Colyvan, 1986

26Mixed 25m, 3
17 *** Tarantula

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Iain Sedgman (originally with 2 aids, later freed by Kevin), 1975

19Trad 25m
18 Crystal Sausage

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

27Trad 25m

1.15.3. Voodoo Buttress 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842382, -36.755030

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap stations above Wasp and Chinese Algebra. 30m abseil from the rap station above Voodoo. Or traverse R and scramble down the back into Voodoo Gully. If you go all the way to the summit rap off down the back from slings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pyrrhic Victory

Struggle up black crack, past overhang, then grey corner to ledge on R. Climb wall above to summit, it's possible to traverse off R to rap anchor on 'Chinese Algebra'.

Start: L of blank orange wall is a black crack.

FA: The Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: Nic Taylor. (Keith Lockwood eliminated some aid in 1969), 1975

19Trad 40m
2 * Roundabouts

Pre-clip bolt from PV. Climb arete to bolt, move R to another bolt, up to good ledge (desperate).

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

28Trad 40m
3 First Blood

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

FA: Alister Robertson, 2013

31Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Chinese Algebra

Move up and L to arete. Climb just R of arete and finish at rap anchor (or continue to the top in a 48m pitch).

Start: A few metres R of arete facing Caslte Crag.

FA: Peter Morris, Ben Maddison, 1977

FFA: Kevin Lindorff., 1977

21Trad 48m
5 * Aussie Logic

Climb straight up middle of wall past 2 carrots.

Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

FA: Clive Curson, 2001

21Trad 23m
6 Gimp's Turn on Top

Is this the line with the carrot bolt(s) just R of CA?

Start: Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

FA: Andrew Collins, Paula Keeno, 1998

23Trad 24m
7 Full Frontal

Girdle of 'Voodoo Buttress'.

Start: As for CA.

  1. 25m (21) Up CA to ledge.

  2. 30m (21) Traverse R until below Wasp flake. Up and R into 'Wurlitzer' to ledge.

  3. 45m (21) Continue R on ledge, at end move up to 10m, then move R to arete and up to top.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan (alt), Neil Smith, 1979

21Trad 100m
8 Nausea

Up crack to bulge, step R into 'Voodoo' (at kink). Head up (tricky) and L into easy crack.

Start: 1m L of 'Voodoo' is a crack.

FA: Jim Van Gelder, Colin Reece, 1979

23Trad 40m
9 ** Voodoo

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

  1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

  2. 15m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

  3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings.

FA: Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: , David Shirra, early's, 1970

18Trad 75m
10 Black Magic

Overhanging L arete.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Dave Mudie, 1989

23Mixed 10m, 1
11 Be Wicked

Roof R of 'Voodoo'.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie, 1989

24Mixed 10m, 2
12 * Sister Sol

A harder variant start to Mother's Son.

Start: 2m L of Mother's Son.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, Louise Shepherd, 1979

21Trad 25m
13 * Mother's Son

Tricky to start but soon gets easier.

FA: Richard Curtis unseconded

21Trad 45m
14 *** Wasp

Straight up pocketed corner to flake. Take LH fork through the bulge.

Start: At base of diagonal line uphill from 'Voodoo'.

FA: Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood, 1974

20Trad 30m
15 Warped

Climb the prominent R-leaning diagonal line to join 'Wurlitzer' below roof. Up to roof, then break L, turn roof and up face.

Start: As for Wasp.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1979

20Trad 20m
16 * Wurlitzer

Up then L into line below roof. Around this on R, then up to rap-anchor.

Start: 10m R of Wasp.

FA: Keith Bell, David Shirra, Ray Lassman, 1971

18Trad 25m
17 Heaven Scent

You might get to smell it yourself if you fall off this one...

Start: 4m L of 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1981

23Trad 30m
18 Sound Chaser Direct Start

Up to and through overhang. Join original and finish as for that.

Start: 2m L of original.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1980

20Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 * Sound Chaser

Up short flake. Move L, then up and L more to bush. Up steep loose crack above. Heading straight up wall after flake at start is 19.

Start: Under R end of grey prow uphill of Wasp.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

18Trad 30m
20 No Stone Unturned

Up SC, then move R into seam (bolt).

Start: As for 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

23Mixed 20m, 1
21 Silk Ties, Candle Wax and Ice

Boulder up on slopes and crimpers, till you can traverse L for 4m and into obvious corner (Spider LH Variant).

Start: Start 3m L of 'Spider'.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Marc Sydnot, 1997

20Trad 25m
22 Spider

Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Unknown, 2000

13Trad 25m
23 Spider LHV

Was the original route.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Ray Lassman, Keith Bell, David Shirra, 1971

18Trad 30m
24 Social Darwinism

Up face (tricky to place RPs, then bolt) to ledge. Step R and up crack.

Start: A couple metres R of 'Spider'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

18Mixed 20m, 1
25 Social Darwinism Direct Finish

Start: As for original.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Heather Phillips, Melanie O'Reilly, 1997

20Mixed 15m, 1
26 Artifact

Swing L (hard), up seam to break, finish up SD.

Start: At 'Blockwork Orange'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1993

19Trad 15m
27 Artifact RHV

Follow 'Artifact' for 5 metres to the ledge. Then step down and right and climb wall left of arete.

Start: Start as for 'Artifact'.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard, 1996

21Trad 10m
28 Blockwork Orange

Up leaning corner to roof, then exit L (at break).

Start: Up the gully from previous routes and short corner cr