Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Shark fin | |||||
16 | ★★ tool bender
first accent | 6m | |||
18 | ★ dont chuck your shoes till it is over
| 7m | |||
5 | milking the dorsal fin
| 7m | |||
23 | ★ spiderman savior
| 7m | |||
The Pimple | |||||
15 | Master Chalk
Rotten crack. Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle. FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1977 | 10m | |||
19 | I've Been a Bunny
Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up. Start: Start R of MC at jugs. FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1986 | 12m, 1 | |||
Unknown bolted line
Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since. | 2 | ||||
21 | ★ Squeeze Me Gently
The arete, veering L. Start: Start where the E face meets the N face. FA: Ian Anger & James Falla, 1986 | 10m | |||
21 | Gadoong, Gadoong
Try and find this one, I dare you. Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge. FA: Smith, Bride & Pritchard, 1996 | 10m | |||
White Mice Walls | |||||
21 | ★ Controlled Burn
Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun! FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Armstrong, 1978 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Bermuda Triangle
The corner, then R around the roof. Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag. FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977 | 12m | |||
18 | Thighs and Quivers
The weakness up the thin face. Start: Start 6m R of BT. FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989 | 20m | |||
19 | Bridge of Thighs
Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L. Start: Start 5m R of T&Q. FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982 | 20m | |||
12 | Left Hand Variant
Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo). Start: Start ~50m R of BT. FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977 | 24m | |||
11 | Right Hand Variant
The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner. Start: Start as for LHV. FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975 | 40m | |||
10 | Uncle Bob’s Folly
If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant' Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this. FA: Glenn Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006 | 10m | |||
14 | Dud Day Afternoon
The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | Ddark Ddigit
Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it. Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page). FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981 | 40m | |||
20 | A Sore Thumb
Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam. Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'. FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988 | 40m | |||
14 | A Sore Finger
Steep direct line with some brittle rock. The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack. FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008 | 25m | |||
7 R | The Shaker
An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock. Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.
FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966 | 66m, 3 | |||
Light Fingered Gully | |||||
12 | What's My Motivation
Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'. Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a shallow prow. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 1995 | 25m | |||
Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger | |||||
12 | Nempnett Thrubwell
Start: Opposite VIMH. FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 25m | |||
12 | Grope Lane
If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself. Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell. Up following faint line to top. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999 | 25m | |||
12 | Dance of the Flaming Anus
| 10m | |||
12 | Uncle Fistula
| 10m | |||
18 | Angry, gun totin', meat eating people
Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague arete to top. Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake. FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999 | 10m | |||
20 | The first six inches
Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof. Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake. FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999 | 20m | |||
20 | Voices in my head
Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess. FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000 | 21m | |||
15 | Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57
See if you can pick the theme running here? Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner. Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right. FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 20m | |||
15 | Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus
Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal. Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up. FA: Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 2000 | 15m | |||
20 | Gutless Gutless Bunny
Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket. Up line. FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999 | 15m | |||
10 | Groove Terminator
Up this. Start: On the left wall of Buttress Buttress 'Gully' (Upper Hunger), right of the steep stuff, is a shallow groove. FA: Glen Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006 | 20m | |||
Light Fingered Gully | |||||
21 | Urban Sprawl
The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall. Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'. FA: Rod Young, 1980 | 15m | |||
23 | Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Caveat emptor! Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'. FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 20m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Hunger
Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge. Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ Motivated by Food
The seam. Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989 | 25m, 1 | |||
28 | ★ Shagadelic
sling anchor is death | 25m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Light Fingered
Struggle up the good line. Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens. FA: Mike Law, 1977 | 25m | |||
23 R | Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete. Start: Start 2m R of LF. FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983 | 30m | |||
8 R | ★★ The Match
Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow. Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 25m | |||
Bum Rocks | |||||
11 | Fireman Don't Got Convictions
Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height. Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock. FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989 | 45m | |||
18 | ★ Glutimus Maximus
Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof. Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney. FA: Hanut Dodd & M Abbott, 1989 | 14m | |||
16 | ★ High School Antics
Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam. Start: Start 1m R of GM. FA: M Abbott & Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989 | 14m | |||
16 | Cling On
Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, 1 Dec 2016 | 15m | |||
22 | Fingersmith
Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete. Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack. FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989 | 16m, 2 | |||
15 | Of Moss and Men
Loose flake then lichen. Reachy. Start: Start 1m R of F. FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride & Greg Incoll, 1989 | 15m | |||
13 | Side Saddle Sally
Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Dec 2016 | 15m | |||
12 | ★ Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding
Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove. Start: Start on the R side of the crag. FA: Fran Holland & Al Proudfoot, 1989 | 14m | |||
11 | ★★ Bottoms Up
Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 30 Jan 2016 | 14m | |||
11 | ★ Wash Your Hands
Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch). FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 28 Jul 2016 | 20m | |||
13 | Back Passage
The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock. FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Jul 2016 | 14m | |||
King Rat Gully Slander Wall | |||||
19 | When Mark Was King
Bouldery start. Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall. FA: Brian Fish, 1982 | 12m | |||
21 | That Man Again
Finish up blunt arete. Start: Start just R of WMWK. FA: Brian Fish, 1982 | 12m | |||
16 | Evelyn's New Clothes
The thin corner. Start: Start just R of arete. FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982 | 12m | |||
13 | ★ Mouse Trap
Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur. FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979 | 45m | |||
13 | Rat Trap
This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock. FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971 | 45m | |||
19 | Chubby Like Chris
The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier! Start: Start at the arete R of RT. FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982 | 12m | |||
24 | Chubby Like Chris Part II
The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line. Start: Start R of CLC. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 12m, 1 | |||
18 | Speedy Lou
The crack. Start: Start R of CLCP2. FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982 | 12m | |||
16 | Compost Corner
Up then step L and follow the continuation. Start: Start 2m R of SL. FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Lees, 1982 | 50m | |||
9 | Gri Grieving
Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen. FA: Dan Flynn & Wendy Eden, Sep 2018 | 45m | |||
7 | Prairie
Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it. Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner. Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge. FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1977 | 50m | |||
14 | Climb is not the correct noun
From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock. FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018 | 20m | |||
King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||
21 | ★★ Feel It Closing In
Good face climbing past BR into crack. Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right. FA: Roland Foster & Greg Pritchard, 1982 | 12m, 1 | |||
27 | ★ Spinning Around the Drain
Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27. | 3 | |||
24 | ★★ A Loaded Gun
Flakes to BR then R and up. Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'. FA: Roland Foster & Allan Wilkie, 1982 | 10m, 1 | |||
26 | Lazaretto
A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 11 Apr | 10m, 4 | |||
22 R | Mongolian Rabbit Shit
Unprotected black streak, then corner. Start: Start ~20m R of ALG. FA: Jon Muir & Russell Chudleigh, 1984 | 15m | |||
25 | Lord of the Midgets
L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20. Start: Start R of MRS. FA: Gavin Jensen & Wayne Jensen, 1989 | 15m, 2 | |||
18 | Deception
Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs. Start: Start 4m L of BL. FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989 | 15m | |||
24 | Brotherly Love
This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers. Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD. FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989 | 16m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur
Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first. Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge. FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid
Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first. Start: Start as for IaLD. FA: Geoff Donovan, 1987 | 25m | |||
21 | Terrordactyl
Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid. Start: Start as for IaLD. FA: Sean Toren & Steph Stewart, 1992 | 25m | |||
14 | I'm A Little Teapot
Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings. FA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001 | 25m | |||
17 | Ed's Super Sarnie
Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected. Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'. FA: Ed Darling & Gareth Llewellyn, 1997 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Scylla
An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966 | 15m | |||
16 | ★★ Scylla Alt Finish
A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish. | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Charybdis
Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966 | 30m, 2 | |||
15 | Hey There Little Insect
As for C for 10m then R and up arete. Start: Start as for C. FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981 | 30m | |||
King Rat Gully Right Fork | |||||
23 | Ratatat
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor. FA: Glenn Tempest, 9 Nov 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 R | Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out. Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR. FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Jan 2020 | 23m | |||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent
The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds. Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1976 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ King Rat
Another awesomely steep line. Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp. FA: Roland Pauligk & Derek Lord (1 aid on piton), 1967 FFA: Dave Neilson, 1971 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Rats in the Ranks
Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Jan 2015 | 22m | |||
23 R | ★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt Start: Start R of KR. FA: Rod Young & Mike Meyers, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 | Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left). FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Oct 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
22 | Maternity Wear
Sustained face and crack with good wires. Start: Start 3m R of K. FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey, 1982 | 15m | |||
22 | Furry Bathtubs
A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star. Start: Start R of MW. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mike Law, 1982 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Purple Denotes Bruising
Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003. Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully. FA: Mike Law & Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 10m, 3 | |||
King Rat Gully Rye Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Catcher
The main crack on the wall used to be very hard when it was graded 16! There are 2 odd chipped crucifixes at the base. FA: Philip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 13m | |||
24 | Wasters in Love
The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now. FA: Simon Mentz, 1989 | 13m, 2 | |||
15 | Harley's Climb
The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left. FA: Harley Burke + others, 1981 | 10m | |||
15 | Jungleland
On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily. FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019 | 9m | |||
King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls | |||||
17 | Tractatus Logica Ludicrous
The thin seam. Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner. FA: Robert Leech & Pritchard, 1996 | 10m | |||
13 | Kick the Ladder Down After You
Takes a line of jugs. Start: Start 1m left of TLL. FA: Leech & Pritchard, 1996 | 10m | |||
10 | Two Years In A Shed In Norway
It is not just the name of this one that is obscure. Start: Behind the former routes is another broken wall. This takes the subtle arete just left of the central corner. FA: Pritchard & Leech, 1996 | 12m | |||
15 | Two Years on a Nork in Shedway
Up middle of face. Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway. FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999 | 10m |