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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

A novelty with a good bouldering move.

Start: Start on ledge below cavernous roof at left end of Kitten Wall.

FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988

2
22 In Spite Trad 20m

Bottomless seam with bouldery start down right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

3
21 * A Piece of Flake Trad 25m

Surprisingly hard, and a little runout after the flake ends.

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left end of Kitten Wall, not far right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1978

4
22 APOF Variant Start Mixed 25m, 1

Worthless.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Takashi Akegawa, 1983

5

Something of a mirror image of 'Indoctrination' without the quality.

FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989

6
24 R * Indoctrination Mixed 25m, 1

A fingery start then good climbing is initially protected by not-the-best cam placement in the world. The bolt needs replacing. A better variant at 23 is to start up Claw and join the traverse L at about 4m.

Start: Start 1 metre left of the prominent crack of Claw.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

7
18 ** Claw Trad 20m

Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on joor jammed nuts".

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 1965

8
19 * Puss 'n Boots Trad 20m

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.

FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris, 1967

9
22 Lickwid Pussy Trad 20m

Good climbing on spaced holds up the wall L of Siamese Crack. You can solo the crux (first 6m) or put side runners in SC. Move L at 6m to flake on Puss in Boots, then back R and straight up through roof to chains.

FA: Guy Cotter, 1981

10
15 * Siamese Crack Trad 25m

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, 1965

11
23 No Purpuss Trad 25m

The name says it all.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

12
14 R Manx Trad 25m

The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 1965

13

A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.

FA: Unknown., 2000

14
25 * Cat Cracker Trad 20m

The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of 'Hard Nipples', which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof.

FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

15
22 R ** Hard Nipples Trad 20m

More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height. Its easy to scramble in from the right to place gear and toprope the first 4m if you value your ankles. DRB on ledge at top.

FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, 1978

16
12 * Cheshire Cat Trad 22m

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

17
15 * Lynx Trad 50m

A very nice girdle-traverse but you have to like this sort of thing.

  1. 18m (15) From just left of gnarled old conifer go up left to traverse line and go left into "Manx". Continue left past "Siamese Crack" to an airy pedestal beside "Claw".

  2. 32m (15) Cross Claw and continue along horizontal break.

FFA: Pitch 1 : Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Reg Wiliams (1 aid).Keith McNaughton, Peter Headdles 04-1968., 1965

FA: Pitch 2: Geoff Schirmer, Keith Lockwood., 1977

18
25 * Armed Forces Trad 20m

Armless.

Start: Start at right-most end of 'Cat Cracker' ledge, lust left of old conifer.

FA: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982

19
23 R The Conception Trad 20m

Dramatic architecture but not very enjoyable or sustained.

Start: Start 5 metres right of the conifer.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

20
27 ** Security Jerks Trad 20m

As steep as they come.

Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

21
24 * Cruel Britannia Trad 20m

A good warm-up for the steep stuff.

Start: This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it but start to the right instead.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Dennis Ismay, 1980

22
19 * Hendrix Trad 20m

Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls.

Start: Start from the big block right of the overhung area.

FA: FRA: Matt Earl, Bruce Craig, Poven Pather. Had been climbed before by mistake, may even be the original line of Footloose., 1991

23

In a similar style to 'Hendrix', it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected).

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Hendrix' at easy crack.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, 1977

24
14 Creeque Alley Trad 40m

Bushy, mossy rock to start.

Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.

FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967

25
22 * Practical Cats Trad 40m

Fairly good route but the fixed wire is gone now - still seems to be leadable.

Start: Start below thin seam without fixed wire where the track dips down.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green, 1982

26
23 R Spastical Cats Trad 40m

Dodgy pro on bottom wall

Start: Start just left of overhang, 4 metres right of 'Practical Cats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko. Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent had climbed the upper flake earlier the same day., 1982

27
20 * Tactical Cats Trad 40m

An enjoyable, intricate route.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Practical Cats', just right of overhang at ground level.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko, 1982

28
21 * Kitty Litter Trad 40m

Climb wall, crossing diagonal crack of 'Alley Cat', to ledge. Up to bulge and technical seam and carry on straight to top.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Tactical Cats'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Andrea Hayes, 1985

29
12 Alley Cat Trad 40m

Mangy.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruce Osborne, 1966