Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route

A novelty with a good bouldering move.

Start: Start on ledge below cavernous roof at left end of Kitten Wall.

FA: Bud Green & James Falla, 1988

22 In Spite Trad 20m

Bottomless seam with bouldery start down right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

21 * A Piece of Flake Trad 25m

Surprisingly hard, and a little runout after the flake ends.

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left end of Kitten Wall, not far right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1978

22 APOF Variant Start Mixed 25m, 1


FA: Mark Moorhead & Takashi Akegawa, 1983


Something of a mirror image of 'Indoctrination' without the quality.

FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989

24 R * Indoctrination Mixed 25m, 1

A fingery start then good climbing is initially protected by not-the-best cam placement in the world. The bolt needs replacing. A better variant at 23 is to start up Claw and join the traverse L at about 4m.

Start: Start 1 metre left of the prominent crack of Claw.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

18 ** Claw Trad 20m

Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on joor jammed nuts".

FA: Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 13th Nov

19 * Puss 'n Boots Trad 20m

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.

FA: Dave Neilson & Rod Harris, 1967

22 Lickwid Pussy Trad 20m

Good climbing on spaced holds up the wall L of Siamese Crack. You can solo the crux (first 6m) or put side runners in SC. Move L at 6m to flake on Puss in Boots, then back R and straight up through roof to chains.

FA: Guy Cotter, 1981

15 * Siamese Crack Trad 25m

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

FA: Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 4th Sep

23 No Purpuss Trad 25m

The name says it all.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

14 R Manx Trad 25m

The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.

FA: Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 4th Sep


A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.

FA: Unknown., 2000

25 * Cat Cracker Trad 20m

The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of 'Hard Nipples', which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof.

FA: John Davis & Jim Smith, 1967

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 R ** Hard Nipples Trad 20m

More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height. Its easy to scramble in from the right to place gear and toprope the first 4m if you value your ankles. DRB on ledge at top.

FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1978

12 * Cheshire Cat Trad 22m

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

15 * Lynx Trad 50m 2

A very nice girdle-traverse but you have to like this sort of thing.

  1. 18m (15) From just left of gnarled old conifer go up left to traverse line and go left into "Manx". Continue left past "Siamese Crack" to an airy pedestal beside "Claw".

  2. 32m (15) Cross Claw and continue along horizontal break.

FFA: Pitch 1 : Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Reg Wiliams (1 aid).Keith McNaughton & Peter Headdles 04-1968., 5th Sep

FA: Pitch 2: Geoff Schirmer & Keith Lockwood., 1977

25 * Armed Forces Trad 20m


Start: Start at right-most end of 'Cat Cracker' ledge, lust left of old conifer.

FA: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982

23 R The Conception Trad 20m

Dramatic architecture but not very enjoyable or sustained.

Start: Start 5 metres right of the conifer.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

27 ** Security Jerks Trad 20m

As steep as they come.

Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

24 * Cruel Britannia Trad 20m

A good warm-up for the steep stuff.

Start: This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it but start to the right instead.

FA: Jeff Lamb & Dennis Ismay, 1980

19 * Hendrix Trad 20m

Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls.

Start: Start from the big block right of the overhung area.

FA: FRA: Matt Earl, Bruce Craig, Poven Pather. Had been climbed before by mistake & may even be the original line of Footloose., 1991


In a similar style to 'Hendrix', it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected).

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Hendrix' at easy crack.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Rod Young, 1977

14 Creeque Alley Trad 40m

Bushy, mossy rock to start.

Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.

FA: Andrew Smith & Chris Baxter, 1967

22 * Practical Cats Trad 40m

Fairly good route but the fixed wire is gone now - still seems to be leadable.

Start: Start below thin seam without fixed wire where the track dips down.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1982

23 R Spastical Cats Trad 40m

Dodgy pro on bottom wall

Start: Start just left of overhang, 4 metres right of 'Practical Cats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko. Louise Shepherd & Mike Broadbent had climbed the upper flake earlier the same day., 1982

20 * Tactical Cats Trad 40m

An enjoyable, intricate route.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Practical Cats', just right of overhang at ground level.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Nick Plishko, 1982

21 * Kitty Litter Trad 40m

Climb wall, crossing diagonal crack of 'Alley Cat', to ledge. Up to bulge and technical seam and carry on straight to top.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Tactical Cats'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Andrea Hayes, 1985

12 Alley Cat Trad 40m


FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruce Osborne, 1966