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Table of contents

1. Kitten Wall 32 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kitten Wall Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Feeling the Ceiling

A novelty with a good bouldering move.

Start: Start on ledge below cavernous roof at left end of Kitten Wall.

FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988

22 Trad 12m
2 In Spite

Bottomless seam with bouldery start down right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

22 Trad 20m
3 * A Piece of Flake

Surprisingly hard, and a little runout after the flake ends.

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left end of Kitten Wall, not far right of Feeling The Ceiling. Go R to chains above Indoctrination.

FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1978

21 Trad 25m
4 APOF Variant Start


FA: Mark Moorhead, Takashi Akegawa, 1983

22 Mixed 25m, 1
5 Socialist Working Class Solidarity

Something of a mirror image of 'Indoctrination'. Desperately hard.

FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989

25 Mixed 25m, 1
6 * Indoctrination

A fingery start then good climbing is initially protected by not-the-best cam placement in the world. The bolt needs replacing. A better variant at 23 is to start up Claw and join the traverse L at about 4m. Chains just below the top.

Start: Start 1 metre left of the prominent crack of Claw.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

24 R Mixed 25m, 1
7 ** Claw

Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on joor jammed nuts".

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 13th Nov

18 Trad 20m
8 * Puss 'n Boots

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.

FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris, 1967

19 Trad 20m
9 Lickwid Pussy

Good climbing on spaced holds up the wall L of Siamese Crack. You can solo the crux (first 6m) or put side runners in SC. Move L at 6m to flake on Puss in Boots, then back R and straight up through roof to chains.

FA: Guy Cotter, 1981

22 Trad 20m
10 * Siamese Crack

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, 4th Sep

15 Trad 25m
11 No Purpuss

The name says it all.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

23 Trad 25m
12 Manx

The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 4th Sep

14 R Trad 25m
13 * Manx Right-Hand Variant

A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.

FA: Unknown., 2000

14 Trad 25m
14 * Cat Cracker

The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of 'Hard Nipples', which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof.

FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

25 Trad 20m
15 ** Hard Nipples

More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height. Its easy to scramble in from the right to place gear and toprope the first 4m if you value your ankles. DRB on ledge at top.

FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 R Trad 20m
16 * Cheshire Cat

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

12 Trad 22m
17 * Lynx

A very nice girdle-traverse but you have to like this sort of thing.

  1. 18m (15) From just left of gnarled old conifer go up left to traverse line and go left into "Manx". Continue left past "Siamese Crack" to an airy pedestal beside "Claw".

  2. 32m (15) Cross Claw and continue along horizontal break.

FFA: Pitch 1 : Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Reg Wiliams (1 aid).Keith McNaughton, Peter Headdles 04-1968., 5th Sep

FA: Pitch 2: Geoff Schirmer, Keith Lockwood., 1977

15 Trad 50m 2
18 ** Armed Forces


Start: Start at right-most end of 'Cat Cracker' ledge, lust left of old conifer.

FA: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982

25 Trad 20m
19 The Conception

Dramatic architecture. Some people find this sleazy and gross, some find it interesting and funky.. feeling lucky?

Start: Start 5 metres right of the conifer.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

23 R Trad 20m
20 ** Security Jerks

As steep as they come.

Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

27 Trad 20m
21 * Cruel Britannia

A good warm-up for the steep stuff.

Start: This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it but start to the right instead.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Dennis Ismay, 1980

24 Trad 20m
22 * Cruel Britanna Direct Finishi

A better and more powerful finish. From upper R-facing corner, move up and R to reach R-trending flakes, which are followed to the top.

FA: @gtempest, 2014

23 Trad 20m
23 * Hendrix

Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls.

Start: Start from the big block right of the overhung area.

FA: FRA: Matt Earl, Bruce Craig, Poven Pather. Had been climbed before by mistake, may even be the original line of Footloose., 1991

19 Trad 20m
24 ** Hey Diddle Diddle

Great little line up between Hendrix and footloose.

19 Trad 18m
25 Footloose and Fancy Free

In a similar style to 'Hendrix', it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected).

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Hendrix' at easy crack.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, 1977

19 Trad 20m
26 Creeque Alley

Bushy, mossy rock to start.

Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.

FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967

14 Trad 40m
27 * Practical Cats

Fairly good route but the fixed wire is gone now - 2 retro bolts- still seems to be leadable.

Start: Start below thin seam without fixed wire where the track dips down.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green, 1982

22 Mixed 40m, 2
28 Spastical Cats

Dodgy pro on bottom wall

Start: Start just left of overhang, 4 metres right of 'Practical Cats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko. Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent had climbed the upper flake earlier the same day., 1982

23 R Trad 40m
29 Tactical Spastical

Avoids the desperate start of Spastical Cats by starting up Tactical Cats. Nice climbing watch out for a little bit of loose looking rock.

FA: Louise Shepherd,Mike Broadbent, 1982

20 Trad 28m
30 * Tactical Cats

An enjoyable, intricate route.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Practical Cats', just right of overhang at ground level.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko, 1982

20 Trad 40m
31 * Kitty Litter

Climb wall, crossing diagonal crack of 'Alley Cat', to ledge. Up to bulge and technical seam and carry on straight to top.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Tactical Cats'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Andrea Hayes, 1985

21 Trad 25m
32 Alley Cat


FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruce Osborne, 1966

12 Trad 40m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 Alley Cat Trad 40m
* Cheshire Cat Trad 22m
14 Creeque Alley Trad 40m
* Manx Right-Hand Variant Trad 25m
14 R Manx Trad 25m
15 * Lynx Trad 50m 2
* Siamese Crack Trad 25m
18 ** Claw Trad 20m
19 Footloose and Fancy Free Trad 20m
* Hendrix Trad 20m
** Hey Diddle Diddle Trad 18m
* Puss 'n Boots Trad 20m
20 * Tactical Cats Trad 40m
Tactical Spastical Trad 28m
21 * A Piece of Flake Trad 25m
* Kitty Litter Trad 25m
22 APOF Variant Start Mixed 25m, 1
* Feeling the Ceiling Trad 12m
In Spite Trad 20m
Lickwid Pussy Trad 20m
* Practical Cats Mixed 40m, 2
22 R ** Hard Nipples Trad 20m
23 * Cruel Britanna Direct Finishi Trad 20m
No Purpuss Trad 25m
23 R Spastical Cats Trad 40m
The Conception Trad 20m
24 * Cruel Britannia Trad 20m
24 R * Indoctrination Mixed 25m, 1
25 ** Armed Forces Trad 20m
* Cat Cracker Trad 20m
Socialist Working Class Solidarity Mixed 25m, 1
27 ** Security Jerks Trad 20m