A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Feeling the Ceiling
A novelty with a good bouldering move.
Start: Start on ledge below cavernous roof at left end of Kitten Wall.
FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988
Bottomless seam with bouldery start down right of Feeling The Ceiling.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979
A Piece of Flake
Surprisingly hard, and a little runout after the flake ends.
FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1978
APOF Variant Start
FA: Mark Moorhead, Takashi Akegawa, 1983
Socialist Working Class Solidarity
Something of a mirror image of 'Indoctrination' without the quality.
FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989
A fingery start then good climbing is initially protected by not-the-best cam placement in the world. The bolt needs replacing. A better variant at 23 is to start up Claw and join the traverse L at about 4m.
Start: Start 1 metre left of the prominent crack of Claw.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979
Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on joor jammed nuts".
FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 13th Nov
Puss 'n Boots
A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.
FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris, 1967
Good climbing on spaced holds up the wall L of Siamese Crack. You can solo the crux (first 6m) or put side runners in SC. Move L at 6m to flake on Puss in Boots, then back R and straight up through roof to chains.
FA: Guy Cotter, 1981
The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.
FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, 4th Sep
The name says it all.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981
The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.
FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 4th Sep
Manx Right-Hand Variant
A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.
Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.
FA: Unknown., 2000
The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of 'Hard Nipples', which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof.
FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height. Its easy to scramble in from the right to place gear and toprope the first 4m if you value your ankles. DRB on ledge at top.
FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, 1978
This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.
A very nice girdle-traverse but you have to like this sort of thing.
FFA: Pitch 1 : Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Reg Wiliams (1 aid).Keith McNaughton, Peter Headdles 04-1968., 5th Sep
FA: Pitch 2: Geoff Schirmer, Keith Lockwood., 1977
Start: Start at right-most end of 'Cat Cracker' ledge, lust left of old conifer.
FA: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982
Dramatic architecture but not very enjoyable or sustained.
Start: Start 5 metres right of the conifer.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967
As steep as they come.
Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.
FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984
A good warm-up for the steep stuff.
Start: This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it but start to the right instead.
FA: Jeff Lamb, Dennis Ismay, 1980
Cruel Britanna Direct Finishi
A better and more powerful finish. From upper R-facing corner, move up and R to reach R-trending flakes, which are followed to the top.
FA: @gtempest, 2014
Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls.
Start: Start from the big block right of the overhung area.
FA: FRA: Matt Earl, Bruce Craig, Poven Pather. Had been climbed before by mistake, may even be the original line of Footloose., 1991
Footloose and Fancy Free
In a similar style to 'Hendrix', it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected).
Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Hendrix' at easy crack.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, 1977
Bushy, mossy rock to start.
Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.
FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967
Fairly good route but the fixed wire is gone now - still seems to be leadable.
Start: Start below thin seam without fixed wire where the track dips down.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green, 1982
Dodgy pro on bottom wall
Start: Start just left of overhang, 4 metres right of 'Practical Cats'.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko. Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent had climbed the upper flake earlier the same day., 1982
An enjoyable, intricate route.
Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Practical Cats', just right of overhang at ground level.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko, 1982
Climb wall, crossing diagonal crack of 'Alley Cat', to ledge. Up to bulge and technical seam and carry on straight to top.
Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Tactical Cats'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Andrea Hayes, 1985
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruce Osborne, 1966
|Manx Right-Hand Variant||25m|
|19||Footloose and Fancy Free||20m|
|Puss 'n Boots||20m|
|21||A Piece of Flake||25m|
|Feeling the Ceiling||12m|
|22||APOF Variant Start||125m,|
|22 R||Hard Nipples||20m|
|23||Cruel Britanna Direct Finishi||20m|
|23 R||Spastical Cats||40m|
|Socialist Working Class Solidarity||25m|