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Table of contents

1. Kitten Wall 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Feeling the Ceiling

A novelty with a good bouldering move.

Start: Start on ledge below cavernous roof at left end of Kitten Wall.

FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988

21Trad 12m
2 In Spite

Bottomless seam with bouldery start down right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

22Trad 20m
3 * A Piece of Flake

Surprisingly hard.

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left end of Kitten Wall, not far right of Feeling The Ceiling.

FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1978

21Trad 25m
4 APOF Variant Start

Worthless.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Takashi Akegawa, 1983

22Mixed 25m, 1
5 Socialist Working Class Solidarity

Something of a mirror image of 'Indoctrination' without the quality.

FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989

25Trad 25m
6 * Indoctrination

A fingery start then good climbing is initially protected by not-the-best cam placement in the world. Some climbers preclip the bolt from Claw but you are kidding yourself if you do.

Start: Start 1 metre left of the prominent crack of Claw.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

24 RMixed 25m, 1
7 ** Claw

Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on joor jammed nuts".

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 1965

18Trad 20m
8 Puss 'n Boots

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection.

FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris, 1967

19Trad 20m
9 Lickwid Pussy

As classy as the name.

FA: Guy Cotter, 1981

21Trad 20m
10 * Siamese Crack

The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, 1965

15Trad 25m
11 No Purpuss

The name says it all.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

23Trad 25m
12 Manx

The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.

FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 1965

14 RTrad 25m
13 * Manx Right-Hand Variant

A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.

FA: Unknown., 2000

14Trad 25m
14 * Cat Cracker

The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of 'Hard Nipples', which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof.

FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967

25Trad 20m
15 * Hard Nipples

More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height.

FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 RTrad 20m
16 * Cheshire Cat

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

12Trad 22m
17 * Lynx

A very nice girdle-traverse but you have to like this sort of thing.

  1. 18m (15) From just left of gnarled old conifer go up left to traverse line and go left into "Manx". Continue left past "Siamese Crack" to an airy pedestal beside "Claw".

  2. 32m (15) Cross Claw and continue along horizontal break.

FFA: Pitch 1 : Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Reg Wiliams (1 aid).Keith McNaughton, Peter Headdles 04-1968., 1965

FA: Pitch 2: Geoff Schirmer, Keith Lockwood., 1977

15Trad 50m
18 * Armed Forces

Armless.

Start: Start at right-most end of 'Cat Cracker' ledge, lust left of old conifer.

FA: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982

25Trad 20m
19 The Conception

Dramatic architecture but not very enjoyable or sustained.

Start: Start 5 metres right of the conifer.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

23 RTrad 20m
20 ** Security Jerks

As steep as they come.

Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

27Trad 20m
21 * Cruel Britannia

A good warm-up for the steep stuff.

Start: This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it but start to the right instead.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Dennis Ismay, 1980

24Trad 20m
22 * Hendrix

Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls.

Start: Start from the big block right of the overhung area.

FA: FRA: Matt Earl, Bruce Craig, Poven Pather. Had been climbed before by mistake, may even be the original line of Footloose., 1991

19Trad 20m
23 Footloose and Fancy Free

In a similar style to 'Hendrix', it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Hendrix' at easy crack.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, 1977

19Trad 20m
24 Creeque Alley

Bushy, mossy rock to start.

Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.

FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967

14Trad 40m
25 * Practical Cats

Fairly good route despite the fixed wire.

Start: Start below thin seam with fixed wire where the track dips down.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green, 1982

22Trad 40m
26 Spastical Cats

Dodgy pro on bottom wall

Start: Start just left of overhang, 4 metres right of 'Practical Cats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko. Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent had climbed the upper flake earlier the same day., 1982

23 RTrad 40m
27 * Tactical Cats

An enjoyable, intricate route.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Practical Cats', just right of overhang at ground level.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko, 1982

20Trad 40m
28 * Kitty Litter

Climb wall, crossing diagonal crack of 'Alley Cat', to ledge. Up to bulge and technical seam and carry on straight to top.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Tactical Cats'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Andrea Hayes, 1985

21Trad 40m
29 Alley Cat

Mangy.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruce Osborne, 1966

12Trad 40m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 Alley Cat Trad 40m
* Cheshire Cat Trad 22m
14 Creeque Alley Trad 40m
Manx Trad 25m
* Manx Right-Hand Variant Trad 25m
15 * Lynx Trad 50m
* Siamese Crack Trad 25m
18 ** Claw Trad 20m
19 Footloose and Fancy Free Trad 20m
* Hendrix Trad 20m
Puss 'n Boots Trad 20m
20 * Tactical Cats Trad 40m
21 * A Piece of Flake Trad 25m
* Feeling the Ceiling Trad 12m
* Kitty Litter Trad 40m
Lickwid Pussy Trad 20m
22 APOF Variant Start Mixed 25m, 1
* Hard Nipples Trad 20m
In Spite Trad 20m
* Practical Cats Trad 40m
23 No Purpuss Trad 25m
Spastical Cats Trad 40m
The Conception Trad 20m
24 * Cruel Britannia Trad 20m
* Indoctrination Mixed 25m, 1
25 * Armed Forces Trad 20m
* Cat Cracker Trad 20m
Socialist Working Class Solidarity Trad 25m
27 ** Security Jerks Trad 20m