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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 Hokey Pokey Mixed 10m, 1

A fun little roof. The 'Pilot Error' of Kitten Wall.

FA: Ian Anger, Terry Tremble, 1984

2
23 * Tunnel of Corgis Trad 55m

A sustained and technical traverse under the ceiling, starting from the lefthand end of the wall. Can be approached via 'Cadence' as well.

Start: Start at the blocky corner marking the left end of the smooth orange wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up corner to roof and traverse right with increasing difficulty to a small stance.

  2. 35m (23) Continue right with even greater difficulty to obvious break in roof. Over and up to slings or easily to rap anchor above Celluloid heroes.

FA: Cathy Blamey, Chris Shepherd (alt), 1981

3
24 * Cadence Trad 40m

Lovely slab leads to awkward roof.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the starting corner of Tunnel Of Corgis.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim Thomas, 1981

4
22 * Celluloid Heroes Trad 40m

An interesting climb which is tough for the grade. Maybe it should be 23.

Start at the left-facing flake-corner halfway along the wall. This is also the start of Strangers Eliminate.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger (alt as 2 pitches), 1980

5
26 * Surprise Trad 40m

A good roof but rarely climbed because it used to require the now-defunct 'Slider' nuts. Maybe modern mini-cams would work?

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

6

A pretty exciting wall climb which is bolt protected where it matters, but still requires a good head to deal with the small wire protection and unconventional moves prior to it. 1st pitch ends at a rap chain, but the 2nd pitch shouldn't be ignored.

Start: Start at the left-facing flake corner about halfway along the wall (Start of Celluloid Heroes).

  1. 27m (20) Climb crack or left wall for 4 metres and then move onto the right wall. Continue onwards with fiddly protection then bolts leading to roof. Move right beneath roof to vertical step and up to stance at higher roof.

  2. 27m (17) Traverse left under roof to tricky move and lip then more easily up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

7

A much bolder proposition to the original route. Starts right of the corner and joins the original line at the mantle (small ledge), then continue as for that route.

FA: Mike Law, 2000

8
24 Odd Spots Trad 40m

Climb directly to flake on Stranger's Eliminate. Boldly up grey streak to ledge on 'Celluloid Heroes'. Up to roof then a reachy move leads to juggy flakes.

Start: Start 1 metre right of Stranger's Eliminate on face.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

9
27 ** My Soul to Keep Trad 35m

An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places.

Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right.

Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

10
20 Eclipse Trad 120m

A daunting traverse below the huge roof on the right-hand half of 'Tjuringa Wall'. If not always great climbing, it's certainly a great experience.

Take a large cam or two. Very large cams or tubes would help but are not essential. The final pitch could be quite amusing without double ropes or the skills to back-rope with a single.

  1. 27m (20) As for Stanger's Eliminate.

  2. 35m (19) Traverse right to stance and anchor for 'Tjuringa'.

  3. 24m (20) Continue right past end of roof, drop down off lip of overhang and pull in to right. Traverse right to In Lieu's belay cave. Traverse off right.

FA: Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood, 1976

11
24 ** Credit Crunch Mixed 25m, 4

Technical climbing on perfect rock. Start 5m right of Bad Cheques. Up past three bolts to join Stranger's Eliminate at it's bolt. Let me know what you think of the grade and stars. I'm bad at grading.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

12
24 R ** Bad Cheques Trad 30m

Well named. An unprotected start (crux) above an awful landing (the block) leads to the first gear in a good horizontal (cam). Fairly well protected and great climbing after that leads to the chain on Stranger's. It is possible to place a wire in a 2-finger pocket at the start, but it is debatable protection to say the least. If you do it this way, then a wired hex is recommended. Graded to take into account the seriousness.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

13
25 R *** Tjuringa Trad 60m

One of the most outstanding routes at 'Arapiles'. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, but some poor gear. The piton should be treated with respect! Both pitches graded to take into account seriousness.

  1. 35m (25) Up the face then left and up flakes. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

  2. 25m (25) Jug out roof past old peg and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay.

  3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

FA: Tobin Sorensen

14
25 *** Tjuringa Pitch 2 Trad 15m

FA: Tobin Sorensen

15
28 ** Orgasmo Trad 35m

One of the most significant additions to this wall in 25 years. Originally equipped back in the dark ages. Very hard wall climbing protected by a mix of trad, then bolts - but still very exciting. Starts as for 'High Mum' then when level with the large flakeline (below the notch), drop down to the left and gain 'Tjuringa Wall' proper via a heinious crux sequence past a bolt. Trend up and leftwards to the undercut horizontal and finish as for 'My Soul to Keep'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000

16

It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

17
24 * Hi Mum! Trad 60m

This is now considered a variant first pitch to 'Common Knowledge' but it originally had a hard (grade 25), second pitch which joined 'Common Knowledge' higher up. Tha hard section of that pitch is now the start of 'Lats Have Feelings Too'. Varied climbing up to the notch, then follow the right trending overlap and surmount it - then straight up to CK belay.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

18
24 *** Common Knowledge Trad 50m

A great 2 pitch outing, though doing the entire route in one pitch is recommended. The dead tree has long since disappeared, so now you have to climb the wall to get off the ground! Double bolts now reside over the top, just below the summit block on its right side.

Start: Start just right of Hi Mum! at bolt-protected wall.

  1. 25m (23) Up wall past bolt and through right-leading line to ledge. Traverse left into right-hand flake and follow this until able to climb wall to semi-hanging belay below roof. Make sure the anchor can withstand an upwards force!

  2. 25m (24) Up right-curving flake, back left to small overlap. Up headwall a few moves then traverse right, demanding with plenty of exposure, for a few metres then go up to anchor (30 metre rappel)

FA: Mark Moorhead led both pitches with Chris Shepherd, Tony Dignan seconding respectively., 1981

19
27 * Akakage Mixed 50m, 3

Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business.

FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988

20
20 * In Lieu Trad 52m
21
20 ** In Lieu direct finish Mixed 18m, 1

A contrasting second pitch with good rock and protection. From the recess Step up right onto stance. up and left via incuts and slots surmounting the overlap on its left. Left past bolt then directly up. At top step left to anchors on Common Knowledge

FA: Mark Wood, Eddy Mofardin, Mars Mofardin, 2012

22
24 Tynee Tips Trad 45m
23
25 * Perfect Stranger Trad 42m
24
24 * Strange Tenants Trad 30m
26
19 Messy Houses Trad 20m
27
17 Moving Out Trad 15m
28
22 Bolshevik Trad 10m