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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Stranger Danger Trad 10m

Arete left of 'Bolero'.

FA: Bud Green & James Falla, 1988

2
13 Bolero Trad 10m

Obvious off-width crack at left end of wall. Take a big cam.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst & Peter Jackson, 1966

3
14 Rolling Stone Trad 11m

Pleasant crack 3 metres right of 'Bolero'.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Phil Grossi & Rein Kamar, 1969

4
20 R Snide Effects Trad 10m

No protection.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd (solo), 1983

5
21 Side Effects Trad 20m

Up flake to peg runner and on to ledge. Traverse right to break and then hard finish up to boulder.

Start: Start at short flake on left side of orange wall right of 'Bolero'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcom Matheson, 1981