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Description:© (boardlord)

The right side of the main part of 'Tjuringa Wall' is marked by a prominent left-facing flake-chimney.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Chip Chop

Chossy crack left of 'Hyperbola' to roof. Traverse out right and up arete.

FA: Kin Carrigan, Lincoln and Louise Shepherd, 1983

22
Trad 15m
2 * Hyperbola Left Hand Variant

Very exciting.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, 1978

22
Trad 15m
3 * Hyperbola

The T-shaped roof on this is a prominent landmark on the track to Kitten Wall.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson, Phillip Stranger, 1966

17
Trad 13m
4 * Hyperbole

Good steep wall climbing up narrow face between 'Hyperbola' and 'Black Cat'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris and Sue Baxter, Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson, 1983

17
Trad 10m
5 Black Cat

Not too bad.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, Glenn Tempest, 1976

10
Trad 15m
6 Tynee Tips

An attractive but serious lead.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Dignan, 1981

24 R
Mixed 42m , 1
7 * Stranger And Stranger

Not a bad traverse if you like that sort of thing.

Start: Start from large block just right of Strange Tenants.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Lpouise Shepherd, 1982

22
Trad 35m
8 Bolshevik

Shallow corner capped by little roof, left of 'Bolero'.

FA: Duncan Critchley (solo), 1984

22
Trad 10m
9 Messy Houses

Start as for Stranger and Stranger but just before horizontal break climb straight up wall to top.

FA: Louise and Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

19
Trad 20m
10 * The Sociopath Next Door

Delicate face climbing

Start: Start 3m right of Strange Tenants

FA: Joel Wilson, 2008

Mixed 30m , 2
11 * Strange Tennants

The fingery wall right of 'Strange Tennants' finishing as for 'In Lieu'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

23
Trad 30m
12 Moving Out

A very committing first half.

Start: Start from block at start of 'Stranger And Stranger'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1982

17 R
Trad 15m
13 * In Lieu

The all too obvious corner/crack/offwidth provides a good workout.

  1. 18m (19) Pleasant short flake-crack to ledge. Now fight your way into the bottomless slot. From the chimney, swing over the next overhang and belay in recess.

  2. 34m (17) Step out right and traverse past two old bolts. The route originally traversed off right but it's much better at second bolt to climb bulge and then flake corner above.

FA: Peter Jackson., 1965

FA: Direct finish : John Moore, Alec Campbell, Chris Dewhirst, 1966

19
Mixed 52m , 2
14 * Perfect Stranger

The smooth wall right of the 'Tynee Tips' arete past a bolt. Finishes as for the traverse of 'In Lieu'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

25
Trad 42m
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