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Description

The right side of the main part of 'Tjuringa Wall' is marked by a prominent left-facing flake-chimney.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kitten Wall Area

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Chossy crack left of 'Hyperbola' to roof. Traverse out right and up arete.

FA: Kin Carrigan, Lincoln & Louise Shepherd, 1983

Very exciting.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Marian, 1978

The T-shaped roof on this is a prominent landmark on the track to Kitten Wall.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966

Good steep wall climbing up narrow face between 'Hyperbola' and 'Black Cat'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris, Sue Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

Not too bad.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman & Glenn Tempest, 1976

An attractive but serious lead.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Tony Dignan, 1981

Not a bad traverse if you like that sort of thing.

Start: Start from large block just right of Strange Tenants.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Lpouise Shepherd, 1982

Shallow corner capped by little roof, left of 'Bolero'.

FA: Duncan Critchley (solo), 1984

Start as for Stranger and Stranger but just before horizontal break climb straight up wall to top.

FA: Louise, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Delicate face climbing

Start: Start 3m right of Strange Tenants

Up to Bolt, then break and on to 2nd Bolt.Up slightly right and up slab (Trad) to Rap Station for In Lieu.

FA: Joel Wilson, 2008

The fingery wall right of 'Perfect Stranger' finishing as for 'In Lieu'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Good slabby climbing with an enjoyable finish. Start: High micro-cam to start. Step off block and pull arete onto ledge. Up slab past a bolt to headwall. Move 2m R and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1982

Surprisingly good wall climbing 2m R of 'Moving Out'. The initial wall (above the undercut arete of 'Moving Out' is bold but has positive holds. Take a few small cams for the first half of the route. The upper headwall is the same as for 'Moving Out'.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 2015

The all too obvious corner/crack/offwidth provides a good workout.

  1. 18m (19) Pleasant short flake-crack to ledge. Now fight your way into the bottomless slot. From the chimney, swing over the next overhang and belay in recess.

  2. 34m (17) Step out right and traverse past two old bolts. The route originally traversed off right but it's much better at second bolt to climb bulge and then flake corner above.

FA: Peter Jackson., 1965

FA: Direct finish : John Moore, Alec Campbell & Chris Dewhirst, 1966

The smooth wall right of the 'Tynee Tips' arete past a bolt. Finishes as for the traverse of 'In Lieu'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

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