A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Feeling the Ceiling
A novelty with a good bouldering move.
Start: Start on ledge below cavernous roof at left end of Kitten Wall.
FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988
Bottomless seam with bouldery start down right of Feeling The Ceiling.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979
A Piece of Flake
Surprisingly hard, and a little runout after the flake ends.
FA: Greg Child, Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1978
APOF Variant Start
FA: Mark Moorhead, Takashi Akegawa, 1983
Socialist Working Class Solidarity
Something of a mirror image of 'Indoctrination' without the quality.
FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989
A fingery start then good climbing is initially protected by not-the-best cam placement in the world. The bolt needs replacing. A better variant at 23 is to start up Claw and join the traverse L at about 4m.
Start: Start 1 metre left of the prominent crack of Claw.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979
Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on joor jammed nuts".
FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 13th Nov
Puss 'n Boots
A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.
FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris, 1967
Good climbing on spaced holds up the wall L of Siamese Crack. You can solo the crux (first 6m) or put side runners in SC. Move L at 6m to flake on Puss in Boots, then back R and straight up through roof to chains.
FA: Guy Cotter, 1981
The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking.
FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, 4th Sep
The name says it all.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981
The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or 'Cheshire Cat' instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.
FA: Ted Batty, Peter Jackson, 4th Sep
Manx Right-Hand Variant
A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching.
Start: Start at the diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx.
FA: Unknown., 2000
The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of 'Hard Nipples', which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof.
FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height. Its easy to scramble in from the right to place gear and toprope the first 4m if you value your ankles. DRB on ledge at top.
FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, 1978
This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.
A very nice girdle-traverse but you have to like this sort of thing.
FFA: Pitch 1 : Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Reg Wiliams (1 aid).Keith McNaughton, Peter Headdles 04-1968., 5th Sep
FA: Pitch 2: Geoff Schirmer, Keith Lockwood., 1977
Start: Start at right-most end of 'Cat Cracker' ledge, lust left of old conifer.
FA: Rod young, Ant Prehn. Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir eliminated the rest. Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd added start as described., 1982
Dramatic architecture but not very enjoyable or sustained.
Start: Start 5 metres right of the conifer.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967
As steep as they come.
Start: Start below the "Beware of this Block" message.
FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984
A good warm-up for the steep stuff.
Start: This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it but start to the right instead.
FA: Jeff Lamb, Dennis Ismay, 1980
Cruel Britanna Direct Finishi
A better and more powerful finish. From upper R-facing corner, move up and R to reach R-trending flakes, which are followed to the top.
FA: @gtempest, 2014
Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls.
Start: Start from the big block right of the overhung area.
FA: FRA: Matt Earl, Bruce Craig, Poven Pather. Had been climbed before by mistake, may even be the original line of Footloose., 1991
Footloose and Fancy Free
In a similar style to 'Hendrix', it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected).
Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Hendrix' at easy crack.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, 1977
Bushy, mossy rock to start.
Start: Start 4 metres right of bent-over old tree.
FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967
Fairly good route but the fixed wire is gone now - still seems to be leadable.
Start: Start below thin seam without fixed wire where the track dips down.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Natalie Green, 1982
Dodgy pro on bottom wall
Start: Start just left of overhang, 4 metres right of 'Practical Cats'.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko. Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent had climbed the upper flake earlier the same day., 1982
An enjoyable, intricate route.
Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Practical Cats', just right of overhang at ground level.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Nick Plishko, 1982
Climb wall, crossing diagonal crack of 'Alley Cat', to ledge. Up to bulge and technical seam and carry on straight to top.
Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Tactical Cats'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Andrea Hayes, 1985
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruce Osborne, 1966
FA: Ian Anger, Terry Tremble, 1984
Tunnel of Corgis
A sustained and technical traverse under the ceiling, starting from the lefthand end of the wall. Can be approached via 'Cadence' as well.
Start: Start at the blocky corner marking the left end of the smooth orange wall.
FA: Cathy Blamey, Chris Shepherd (alt), 1981
Lovely slab leads to awkward roof.
Start: Start 3 metres right of the starting corner of Tunnel Of Corgis.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim Thomas, 1981
An interesting climb which is tough for the grade. Maybe it should be 23.
Start at the left-facing flake-corner halfway along the wall. This is also the start of Strangers Eliminate.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger (alt as 2 pitches), 1980
A good roof but rarely climbed because it used to require the now-defunct 'Slider' nuts. Maybe modern mini-cams would work?
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986
A pretty exciting wall climb which is bolt protected where it matters, but still requires a good head to deal with the small wire protection and unconventional moves prior to it. 1st pitch ends at a rap chain, but the 2nd pitch shouldn't be ignored.
Start: Start at the left-facing flake corner about halfway along the wall (Start of Celluloid Heroes).
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968
Strangers Direct Start
A much bolder proposition to the original route. Starts right of the corner and joins the original line at the mantle (small ledge), then continue as for that route.
FA: Mike Law, 2000
Climb directly to flake on Stranger's Eliminate. Boldly up grey streak to ledge on 'Celluloid Heroes'. Up to roof then a reachy move leads to juggy flakes.
Start: Start 1 metre right of Stranger's Eliminate on face.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986
My Soul to Keep
An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places.
Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right.
Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006
Technical climbing on perfect rock. Start 5m left of Bad Cheques, just right of 'My Soul To Keep'. Up past three bolts to join Stranger's Eliminate at it's bolt. Let me know what you think of the grade and stars. I'm bad at grading.
FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012
A daunting traverse below the huge roof on the right-hand half of 'Tjuringa Wall'. If not always great climbing, it's certainly a great experience.
Take a large cam or two. Very large cams or tubes would help but are not essential. The final pitch could be quite amusing without double ropes or the skills to back-rope with a single.
FA: Keith Bell, Keith Lockwood, 1976
Well named. An unprotected start (crux) above an awful landing (the block) leads to the first gear in a good horizontal (cam). Fairly well protected and great climbing after that leads to the chain on Stranger's. It is possible to place a wire in a 2-finger pocket at the start, but it is debatable protection to say the least. If you do it this way, then a wired hex is recommended. Graded to take into account the seriousness.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
One of the most outstanding routes at 'Arapiles'. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, but some poor gear. The piton should be treated with respect! Both pitches graded to take into account seriousness.
FA: Tobin Sorensen
Tjuringa Pitch 2
FA: Tobin Sorensen
One of the most significant additions to this wall in 25 years. Originally equipped back in the dark ages. Very hard wall climbing protected by a mix of trad, then bolts - but still very exciting. Starts as for 'High Mum' then when level with the large flakeline (below the notch), drop down to the left and gain 'Tjuringa Wall' proper via a heinious crux sequence past a bolt. Trend up and leftwards to the undercut horizontal and finish as for 'My Soul to Keep'.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000
Lats Have Feelings Too
It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.
Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
This is now considered a variant first pitch to 'Common Knowledge' but it originally had a hard (grade 25), second pitch which joined 'Common Knowledge' higher up. Tha hard section of that pitch is now the start of 'Lats Have Feelings Too'. Varied climbing up to the notch, then follow the right trending overlap and surmount it - then straight up to CK belay.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982
A great 2 pitch outing, though doing the entire route in one pitch is recommended. The dead tree has long since disappeared, so now you have to climb the wall to get off the ground! Double bolts now reside over the top, just below the summit block on its right side.
Start: Start just right of Hi Mum! at bolt-protected wall.
FA: Mark Moorhead led both pitches with Chris Shepherd, Tony Dignan seconding respectively., 1981
Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business.
FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988
In Lieu direct finish
A contrasting second pitch with good rock and protection. From the recess Step up right onto stance. up and left via incuts and slots surmounting the overlap on its left. Left past bolt then directly up. At top step left to anchors on Common Knowledge
FA: Mark Wood, Eddy Mofardin, Mars Mofardin, 2012
|25||Stranger and Stranger||22||35m|
Arete left of 'Bolero'.
FA: Bud Green, James Falla, 1988
Obvious off-width crack at left end of wall. Take a big cam.
FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson, 1966
Pleasant crack 3 metres right of 'Bolero'.
FA: Gordon Talbett, Phil Grossi, Rein Kamar, 1969
FA: Lincoln Shepherd (solo), 1983
Up flake to peg runner and on to ledge. Traverse right to break and then hard finish up to boulder.
Start: Start at short flake on left side of orange wall right of 'Bolero'.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcom Matheson, 1981
- Description:© (boardlord)
The right side of the main part of 'Tjuringa Wall' is marked by a prominent left-facing flake-chimney.
Chossy crack left of 'Hyperbola' to roof. Traverse out right and up arete.
FA: Kin Carrigan, Lincoln and Louise Shepherd, 1983
Hyperbola Left Hand Variant
FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, 1978
The T-shaped roof on this is a prominent landmark on the track to Kitten Wall.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson, Phillip Stranger, 1966
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris and Sue Baxter, Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson, 1983
Not too bad.
FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, Glenn Tempest, 1976
An attractive but serious lead.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Dignan, 1981
Stranger And Stranger
Not a bad traverse if you like that sort of thing.
Start: Start from large block just right of Strange Tenants.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Lpouise Shepherd, 1982
Shallow corner capped by little roof, left of 'Bolero'.
FA: Duncan Critchley (solo), 1984
Start as for Stranger and Stranger but just before horizontal break climb straight up wall to top.
FA: Louise and Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982
The Sociopath Next Door
Delicate face climbing
Start: Start 3m right of Strange Tenants
Up to Bolt, then break and on to 2nd Bolt.Up slightly right and up slab (Trad) to Rap Station for In Lieu.
FA: Joel Wilson, 2008
The fingery wall right of 'Strange Tennants' finishing as for 'In Lieu'.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982
A very committing first half.
Start: Start from block at start of 'Stranger And Stranger'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1982
The all too obvious corner/crack/offwidth provides a good workout.
FA: Peter Jackson., 23rd Sep
FA: Direct finish : John Moore, Alec Campbell, Chris Dewhirst, 1966
The smooth wall right of the 'Tynee Tips' arete past a bolt. Finishes as for the traverse of 'In Lieu'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984