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Description:© (boardlord)

Well named. An unprotected start (crux) above an awful landing (the block) leads to the first gear in a good horizontal (cam). Fairly well protected and great climbing after that leads to the chain on Stranger's. It is possible to place a wire in a 2-finger pocket at the start, but it is debatable protection to say the least. If you do it this way, then a wired hex is recommended. Graded to take into account the seriousness.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Law, 1982


Located in Watchtower Area approx:
Long/Lat: 141.838505,-36.751497

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 R Community registered grade
24 R ** ** ACA Route Register
24 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
24 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux good

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