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Description:© (boardlord)

One of the most outstanding routes at 'Arapiles'. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, but some poor gear. The piton should be treated with respect! Both pitches graded to take into account seriousness.

  1. 35m (25) Up the face then left and up flakes. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

  2. 25m (25) Jug out roof past old peg and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay.

  3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979


Located in Watchtower Area approx:
Long/Lat: 141.838505,-36.751497

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 R Community registered grade
25 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
25 R *** *** ACA Route Register
25 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
25 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 100%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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