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A high boulder holding a number of worthwhile problems.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Pinch Arete / Swing Wing Boulders

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).



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Grade Route

On the trackside of the boulder. Gain vague scooped arete from the left

On the trackside of the boulder. Up big suspect flakes.

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

Rising traverse left, then up on spaced but good holds

The chimney

Can be bouldered or top roped (there's a bolt on top).

Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.

Bum dragging traverse, usually done left to right


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