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Description

The long grey wall running along Major Mitchell Gully.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Descent Notes

Rap anchors above Feral Chicken, Morfydd and a couple of others. Or scramble down Ali's.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 Rocky Trad 12m

From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

Start: Start up high in 'Major Mitchell Gully', above the massive boulder, and opposite 'Brontosaurus' (described under 'Dunes' Buttress).

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

2
23 Bullwinkle Trad 12m

Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

3
18 Natchez Trace Trad 15m

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.

Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

4

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, David Jones + 1, 1993

5
24 Trench Warfare Trad 35m

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously.

Start: Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1980

6
20 R * Firedance Trad 15m

The subtle weakness in frictional rock takes tiny RPs.

Start: Start 20m up L from DT.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton, late '., 1977

7
24 * Deeply Techo Trad 20m

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Feral Chicken'.

FA: Mike Law, 1981

8
22 ** Feral Chicken Trad 20m

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds. Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish.

Start: Start 3m L of L.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

9
25 Feral Fee-box Mixed 12m, 3

Fridge hugging.

Start: Start 2m R of FC.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994

10
15 Lennox Trad 30m

Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing R.

Start: Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

12
15 The Philanthropist Trad 30m

3m up 'Lennox', then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams.

Start: Start as for L.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter, 1984

13
24 Petrol Solutions Mixed 30m, 2

As for 'Slap Happy' to the ledge, then follow the bolts.

Start: Start as for SH.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Gordon Poultney, 1994

14
23 * Slap Happy Mixed 30m, 1

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge.

Start: Start 2m R of L.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1980

15
18 * Kincaid Trad 20m

A sweet slab.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

16
18 Housemaid's Knee Trad 15m

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.

Start: Start just L of G.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1985

17
9 * Gazollika Trad 20m

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof.

Start: Start on the next buttress uphill from 'Morfydd', at a chimney with a square roof.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus, 1968

18
15 No Place for Foxes Trad 30m

Pull up the buckety arete, then up the wall.

Start: Start just R of G.

FA: Paul Daniels, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

19
24 * No Standing Trad 25m

Choose either crack (both tough), to follow the thin diagonal past an old piton.

Start: Start in the middle of the buttress L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Peisker, 1979

20

Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.

Start: Start 2m R of NS.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Kim Carrigan, 1985

21
19 Stillborn Trad 20m

The line delineating the L side of the pillar is unpleasant and has a tough start.

Start: Start on the L side of the 'Morfydd' Pillar.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Keith Lockwood, 1967

22
24 Master Blaster Trad 28m

Weakness with PR, to ledge. Either pike off L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne's fine wall (the latter looks a much better outing).

Start: Start 1m R of S.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Carole Bradley, 1980

23
24 * Morfyne Trad 30m

Close to 'Morfydd' at times, but still a very appealing wall.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1979

24
19 *** Morfydd Trad 30m

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1968

25
22 Visual Laxative Trad 35m

Originally 22, but harder since a hold on pitch 1 snapped off.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Morfydd'.

  1. 15m (-) Shallow groove to ledge then L and up to 2nd ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Straight up face keeping L of arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Natalie Green, 1979

26
12 Bygone Mixed 30m, 1

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

27

Start: Start in the gully right of 'Bygone', below the crack near arete.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, 1995