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Description

The long grey wall running along Major Mitchell Gully.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Morfydd Wall Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

Rap anchors above Feral Chicken, Morfydd and a couple of others. Or scramble down Ali's.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 Rocky Trad 12m

From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

Start: Start up high in 'Major Mitchell Gully', above the massive boulder, and opposite 'Brontosaurus' (described under 'Dunes' Buttress).

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

2
23 Bullwinkle Trad 12m

Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

3
18 Natchez Trace Trad 15m

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.

Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

4

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & David Jones + 1, 1993

5
24 Trench Warfare Trad 35m

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously.

Start: Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1980

6
20 R ** Firedance Trad 15m

The subtle weakness in frictional rock takes tiny RPs.

Start: Start 20m up L from DT.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton & late '., 1977

7
24 ** Deeply Techo Trad 20m

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Feral Chicken'.

FA: Mike Law, 1981

8
22 R ** Feral Chicken Trad 20m

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds. Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish.

Start: Start 3m L of L.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980

9
25 Feral Fee-box Mixed 12m, 3

Fridge hugging.

Start: Start 2m R of FC.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994

10
15 Lennox Trad 30m

Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing R.

Start: Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

11

Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall.

12
15 * The Philanthropist Trad 30m

3m up 'Lennox', then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams.

Start: Start as for L.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1984

13
24 * Petrol Solutions Mixed 30m, 3

As for 'Slap Happy' to the ledge, then follow the bolts.

Start: Start as for SH.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Gordon Poultney, 1994

14
23 ** Slap Happy Mixed 30m, 1

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge.

Start: Start 2m R of L.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1980

15
23 Kool Aid Trad 20m

Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2010

16
18 * Kincaid Trad 20m

A sweet slab.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980

17
18 * Housemaid's Knee Trad 15m

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.

Start: Start just L of G.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985

18
9 Gazollika Trad 20m

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof.

Start: Start on the next buttress uphill from 'Morfydd', at a chimney with a square roof.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968

19
17 Leadership Spill Trad 25m

Direct finish to No Place For Foxes. A little light on gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ben Carter, 2015

20
15 No Place for Foxes Trad 30m

Start below tiny steep corner in arete R of G. Pull up the buckety arete, up to ledge and up groove.

Start: Start just R of G.

FA: Paul Daniels & Maureen Gallagher, 1984

21
15 No Space for Boxes Trad 30m

From the ledge on NPFF, head up intermittant flakes leading onto the right wall and up to anchor on NS.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 2015

22
24 ** No Standing Trad 25m

Choose either crack (both tough), to follow the thin diagonal past an old piton.

Start: Start in the middle of the buttress L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

23

Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.

Start: Start 2m R of NS.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Kim Carrigan, 1985

24
19 * Stillborn Trad 20m

The line delineating the L side of the Morphydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1967

25
25 * Master Blaster Trad 28m

Just right of Stillborn, head up past pockets to intermittent crack. Written up as finishing L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne (much better).

Note: The added bolts have been removed as there is reportedly good gear now with modern gear, especially near the pin/2nd bolt, but can you hang on to place it)

FA: Glenn Tempest & Carole Bradley, 1980

26
24 * Morfyne Trad 30m

Close to 'Morfydd' at times, but still a very appealing wall.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1979

27
19 *** Morfydd Trad 30m

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1968

28

This is really Visual Laxative VS, joining VL immediately after the first bolt and retroing the crux.

FFA: 2016

29
23 Visual Laxative Mixed 35m 2, 1

Accidently retoroed but probably benefits from it as it might now actually get climbed. Start 5m R of 'Morfydd'. Shallow groove to ledge then L and up concave face (crux) to second ledge. Weave R then L through juggy overhang then R up seam to finish L of arete. Some loose feeling rock.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Natalie Green, 1979

30

As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge.

FA: Oz & Douglas Hockly, 2015

31
12 * Bygone Mixed 30m, 1

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

32

Start: Start in the gully right of 'Bygone', below the crack near arete.

Looks rather serious.

FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995

Activity

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