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Description

The wall directly behind Fang Buttress.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes

Downclimb Ali's- follow the chains into the gully. Or rap from the station on the ledge behind Jogn's Pinnacle (45m abseil).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
9 R Ali's Face Trad 50m

Probably the most descended route at 'Arapiles' (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended.

Start: Start 5m L of Ali's.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock, 2nd Jan

2
3 Ali's Trad 60m

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the 'Bluffs' climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Bygone', under the huge left-facing corner system, behind 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: The Craddocks?, 2000

3
10 Debut Trad 60m

Climb Ali's, then 'Bluff Minor'.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

4
26 The Dude Abides Mixed 30m, 4

Climb the funky roof to the left of 'Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join 'Nursery Rhymes' on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start: 1m left of 'Nursery Rhymes'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

5
25 Nursery Rhymes Trad 30m

Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

6
21 * Directathal Trad 30m

Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

7
24 Tobermory Mixed 25m, 2

Start: Start as for 'Directathal'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

8
22 Meanderthal Trad 30m

Up the diagonal crack of D then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson, Kim Carrigan, 1978

9

Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start: Start at Ali's.

FA: Craig Roberts, Ryan Robertson, 1986

10
9 Sisyphus Trad 90m

Start: Start at Ali\'s.

  1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on 'Orpheus' (which is described in the 'Bard Buttress' area).

  2. 28m (9) As for pitch 5 of 'Orpheus' then traverse R.

  3. 20m (9) 'Nasty' wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

  4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

FA: Two South Australians, 1965

11
12 Oedipus Complex Trad 66m

Follow S for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass 'Orpheus' and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968