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Table of contents

1. Major Mitchell Gully 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844860, -36.757652

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. Morfydd Wall 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

The long grey wall running along Major Mitchell Gully.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors above Feral Chicken, Morfydd and a couple of others. Or scramble down Ali's.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rocky

From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

Start: Start up high in 'Major Mitchell Gully', above the massive boulder, and opposite 'Brontosaurus' (described under 'Dunes' Buttress).

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

24Trad 12m
2 Bullwinkle

Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

23Trad 12m
3 Natchez Trace

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.

Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

18Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Anxious Boys with Power Toys

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, David Jones + 1, 1993

26Mixed 15m, 2
5 Trench Warfare

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously.

Start: Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1980

24Trad 35m
6 * Firedance

The subtle weakness in frictional rock takes tiny RPs.

Start: Start 20m up L from DT.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton, late '., 1977

20 RTrad 15m
7 * Deeply Techo

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Feral Chicken'.

FA: Mike Law, 1981

24Trad 20m
8 ** Feral Chicken

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds. Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish.

Start: Start 3m L of L.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

22Trad 20m
9 Feral Fee-box

Fridge hugging.

Start: Start 2m R of FC.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994

25Mixed 12m, 3
10 Lennox

Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing R.

Start: Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

15Trad 30m
11 * Slap the Philanthropist 21Trad 30m
12 The Philanthropist

3m up 'Lennox', then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams.

Start: Start as for L.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter, 1984

15Trad 30m
13 Petrol Solutions

As for 'Slap Happy' to the ledge, then follow the bolts.

Start: Start as for SH.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Gordon Poultney, 1994

24Mixed 30m, 2
14 * Slap Happy

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge.

Start: Start 2m R of L.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1980

23Mixed 30m, 1
15 * Kincaid

A sweet slab.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

18Trad 20m
16 Housemaid's Knee

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.

Start: Start just L of G.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1985

18Trad 15m
17 * Gazollika

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof.

Start: Start on the next buttress uphill from 'Morfydd', at a chimney with a square roof.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus, 1968

9Trad 20m
18 No Place for Foxes

Pull up the buckety arete, then up the wall.

Start: Start just R of G.

FA: Paul Daniels, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

15Trad 30m
19 * No Standing

Choose either crack (both tough), to follow the thin diagonal past an old piton.

Start: Start in the middle of the buttress L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Peisker, 1979

24Trad 25m
20 Standing on Principles

Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.

Start: Start 2m R of NS.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Kim Carrigan, 1985

25Trad 20m
21 Stillborn

The line delineating the L side of the pillar is unpleasant and has a tough start.

Start: Start on the L side of the 'Morfydd' Pillar.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Keith Lockwood, 1967

19Trad 20m
22 Master Blaster

Weakness with PR, to ledge. Either pike off L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne's fine wall (the latter looks a much better outing).

Start: Start 1m R of S.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Carole Bradley, 1980

24Trad 28m
23 * Morfyne

Close to 'Morfydd' at times, but still a very appealing wall.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1979

24Trad 30m
24 *** Morfydd

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1968

19Trad 30m
25 Visual Laxative

Originally 22, but harder since a hold on pitch 1 snapped off.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Morfydd'.

  1. 15m (-) Shallow groove to ledge then L and up to 2nd ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Straight up face keeping L of arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Natalie Green, 1979

22Trad 35m
26 Bygone

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

12Mixed 30m, 1
27 * The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle

Start: Start in the gully right of 'Bygone', below the crack near arete.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, 1995

24Trad 25m

1.2. Ali's Area 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

The wall directly behind Fang Buttress.

Descent Notes:

Downclimb Ali's- follow the chains into the gully. Or rap from the station on the ledge behind Jogn's Pinnacle (45m abseil).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ali's Face

Probably the most descended route at 'Arapiles' (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended.

Start: Start 5m L of Ali's.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock, 2nd Jan

9 RTrad 50m
2 Ali's

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the 'Bluffs' climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Bygone', under the huge left-facing corner system, behind 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: The Craddocks?, 2000

3Trad 60m
3 Debut

Climb Ali's, then 'Bluff Minor'.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 1965

10Trad 60m
4 The Dude Abides

Climb the funky roof to the left of 'Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join 'Nursery Rhymes' on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start: 1m left of 'Nursery Rhymes'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

26Mixed 30m, 4
5 Nursery Rhymes

Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25Trad 30m
6 * Directathal

Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

21Trad 30m
7 Tobermory

Start: Start as for 'Directathal'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

24Mixed 25m, 2
8 Meanderthal

Up the diagonal crack of D then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson, Kim Carrigan, 1978

22Trad 30m
9 A Snortiblog in Paradise

Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start: Start at Ali's.

FA: Craig Roberts, Ryan Robertson, 1986

13Trad 25m
10 Sisyphus

Start: Start at Ali\'s.

  1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on 'Orpheus' (which is described in the 'Bard Buttress' area).

  2. 28m (9) As for pitch 5 of 'Orpheus' then traverse R.

  3. 20m (9) 'Nasty' wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

  4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

FA: Two South Australians, 1965

9Trad 90m
11 Oedipus Complex

Follow S for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass 'Orpheus' and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

12Trad 66m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Ali's Trad 60m 1.2. Ali's Area
9 * Gazollika Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Ali's Face Trad 50m 1.2. Ali's Area
Sisyphus Trad 90m 1.2. Ali's Area
10 Debut Trad 60m 1.2. Ali's Area
12 Bygone Mixed 30m, 1 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Oedipus Complex Trad 66m 1.2. Ali's Area
13 A Snortiblog in Paradise Trad 25m 1.2. Ali's Area
15 Lennox Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
No Place for Foxes Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
The Philanthropist Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
18 Housemaid's Knee Trad 15m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Kincaid Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Natchez Trace Trad 15m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
19 *** Morfydd Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Stillborn Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
20 * Firedance Trad 15m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
21 * Slap the Philanthropist Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Directathal Trad 30m 1.2. Ali's Area
22 ** Feral Chicken Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Visual Laxative Trad 35m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Meanderthal Trad 30m 1.2. Ali's Area
23 Bullwinkle Trad 12m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Slap Happy Mixed 30m, 1 1.1. Morfydd Wall
24 * Deeply Techo Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Master Blaster Trad 28m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Morfyne Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* No Standing Trad 25m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Petrol Solutions Mixed 30m, 2 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Rocky Trad 12m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle Trad 25m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Trench Warfare Trad 35m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Tobermory Mixed 25m, 2 1.2. Ali's Area
25 Feral Fee-box Mixed 12m, 3 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Standing on Principles Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Nursery Rhymes Trad 30m 1.2. Ali's Area
26 Anxious Boys with Power Toys Mixed 15m, 2 1.1. Morfydd Wall
The Dude Abides Mixed 30m, 4 1.2. Ali's Area