A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.


Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our Usage policy


Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:


The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Major Mitchell Gully 43 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844860, -36.757652


Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Morfydd Wall Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. Morfydd Wall 32 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

The long grey wall running along Major Mitchell Gully.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Morfydd Wall Area

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors above Feral Chicken, Morfydd and a couple of others. Or scramble down Ali's.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rocky

From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

Start: Start up high in 'Major Mitchell Gully', above the massive boulder, and opposite 'Brontosaurus' (described under 'Dunes' Buttress).

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

24 Trad 12m
2 Bullwinkle

Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1993

23 Trad 12m
3 Natchez Trace

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.

Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

18 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Anxious Boys with Power Toys

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, David Jones + 1, 1993

26 Mixed 15m, 2
5 Trench Warfare

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously.

Start: Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1980

24 Trad 35m
6 * Firedance

The subtle weakness in frictional rock takes tiny RPs.

Start: Start 20m up L from DT.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton, late '., 1977

20 R Trad 15m
7 ** Deeply Techo

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Feral Chicken'.

FA: Mike Law, 1981

24 Trad 20m
8 ** Feral Chicken

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds. Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish.

Start: Start 3m L of L.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

22 R Trad 20m
9 Feral Fee-box

Fridge hugging.

Start: Start 2m R of FC.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994

25 Mixed 12m, 3
10 Lennox

Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing R.

Start: Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

15 Trad 30m
11 * Slap the Philanthropist

Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall.

21 Trad 30m
12 The Philanthropist

3m up 'Lennox', then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams.

Start: Start as for L.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter, 1984

15 Trad 30m
13 Petrol Solutions

As for 'Slap Happy' to the ledge, then follow the bolts.

Start: Start as for SH.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Gordon Poultney, 1994

24 Mixed 30m, 3
14 * Slap Happy

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge.

Start: Start 2m R of L.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1980

23 Mixed 30m, 1
15 Kool Aid

Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains.

FA: @duglash, 2010

23 Trad 20m
16 * Kincaid

A sweet slab.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1980

18 Trad 20m
17 Housemaid's Knee

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.

Start: Start just L of G.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1985

18 Trad 15m
18 * Gazollika

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof.

Start: Start on the next buttress uphill from 'Morfydd', at a chimney with a square roof.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus, 1968

9 Trad 20m
19 Leadership Spill

Direct finish to No Place For Foxes. A little light on gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter, 2015

17 Trad
20 No Place for Foxes

Start below tiny steep corner in arete R of G. Pull up the buckety arete, up to ledge and up groove.

Start: Start just R of G.

FA: Paul Daniels, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

15 Trad 30m
21 No Space for Boxes

From the ledge on NPFF, head up intermittant flakes leading onto the right wall and up to anchor on NS.

FA: Wendy Eden, Douglas Hockly, 2015

15 Trad
22 * No Standing

Choose either crack (both tough), to follow the thin diagonal past an old piton.

Start: Start in the middle of the buttress L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Peisker, 1979

24 Trad 25m
23 Standing on Principles

Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.

Start: Start 2m R of NS.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Kim Carrigan, 1985

25 Trad 20m
24 Stillborn

The line delineating the L side of the Morphydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Keith Lockwood, 1967

19 Trad 20m
25 ** Master Blaster

Just right of Stillborn, head up past pockets and bolt to intermittant crack and bolt. Written up as finishing L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne (much better).

FA: Glenn Tempest, Carole Bradley, 1980

25 Mixed 28m, 2
26 * Morfyne

Close to 'Morfydd' at times, but still a very appealing wall.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1979

24 Trad 30m
27 *** Morfydd

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1968

19 Trad 30m
28 * Enga's Route (name coming)

This is really Visual Laxative VS, joining VL immediately after the first bolt and retroing the crux.

FFA: 8th Aug

22 Sport 2
29 Visual Laxative

Accidently retoroed but probably benefits from it as it might now actually get climbed. Start 5m R of 'Morfydd'. Shallow groove to ledge then L and up concave face (crux) to second ledge. Weave R then L through juggy overhang then R up seam to finish L of arete. Some loose feeling rock.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Natalie Green, 1979

23 Mixed 35m 2, 1
30 Televisual Laxative

As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge.

FA: Oz,@duglash, 2015

20 Trad 35m
31 * Bygone

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

12 Mixed 30m, 1
32 * The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle

Start: Start in the gully right of 'Bygone', below the crack near arete.

Looks rather serious.

FA: Hoskins, Smith, 1995

24 Trad 25m

1.2. Ali's Area 11 routes in Cliff

All Trad

The wall directly behind Fang Buttress.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Morfydd Wall Area

Descent Notes:

Downclimb Ali's- follow the chains into the gully. Or rap from the station on the ledge behind Jogn's Pinnacle (45m abseil).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ali's Face

Probably the most descended route at 'Arapiles' (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended.

Start: Start 5m L of Ali's.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock, 2nd Jan

9 R Trad 50m
2 Ali's

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the 'Bluffs' climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Bygone', under the huge left-facing corner system, behind 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: The Craddocks?, 2000

3 Trad 60m
3 Debut

Climb Ali's, then 'Bluff Minor'. Not great rock but a great position.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, 24th Apr

10 Trad 60m
4 The Dude Abides

Climb the funky roof to the left of 'Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join 'Nursery Rhymes' on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start: 1m left of 'Nursery Rhymes'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

26 Mixed 30m, 4
5 Nursery Rhymes

Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25 Trad 30m
6 * Directathal

Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

21 Trad 30m
7 Tobermory

Start: Start as for 'Directathal'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

24 Mixed 25m, 2
8 Meanderthal

Up the diagonal crack of D then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson, Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 Trad 30m
9 A Snortiblog in Paradise

Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start: Start at Ali's.

FA: Craig Roberts, Ryan Robertson, 1986

13 Trad 25m
10 Sisyphus

Start: Start at Ali\'s.

  1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on 'Orpheus' (which is described in the 'Bard Buttress' area).

  2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of 'Orpheus' then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up 'Orpheus').

  3. 20m (9) 'Nasty' wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

  4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

FA: Two South Australians, 1965

12 Trad 80m 4
11 Oedipus Complex

Follow S for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass 'Orpheus' and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

12 Trad 66m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Ali's Trad 60m 1.2. Ali's Area
9 * Gazollika Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
9 R Ali's Face Trad 50m 1.2. Ali's Area
10 Debut Trad 60m 1.2. Ali's Area
12 * Bygone Mixed 30m, 1 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Oedipus Complex Trad 66m 1.2. Ali's Area
Sisyphus Trad 80m 4 1.2. Ali's Area
13 A Snortiblog in Paradise Trad 25m 1.2. Ali's Area
15 Lennox Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
No Place for Foxes Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
No Space for Boxes Trad 1.1. Morfydd Wall
The Philanthropist Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
17 Leadership Spill Trad 1.1. Morfydd Wall
18 Housemaid's Knee Trad 15m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Kincaid Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Natchez Trace Trad 15m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
19 *** Morfydd Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Stillborn Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
20 Televisual Laxative Trad 35m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
20 R * Firedance Trad 15m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
21 * Slap the Philanthropist Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Directathal Trad 30m 1.2. Ali's Area
22 * Enga's Route (name coming) Sport 2 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Meanderthal Trad 30m 1.2. Ali's Area
22 R ** Feral Chicken Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
23 Bullwinkle Trad 12m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Kool Aid Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Slap Happy Mixed 30m, 1 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Visual Laxative Mixed 35m 2, 1 1.1. Morfydd Wall
24 ** Deeply Techo Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* Morfyne Trad 30m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* No Standing Trad 25m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Petrol Solutions Mixed 30m, 3 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Rocky Trad 12m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
* The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle Trad 25m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Trench Warfare Trad 35m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Tobermory Mixed 25m, 2 1.2. Ali's Area
25 Feral Fee-box Mixed 12m, 3 1.1. Morfydd Wall
** Master Blaster Mixed 28m, 2 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Standing on Principles Trad 20m 1.1. Morfydd Wall
Nursery Rhymes Trad 30m 1.2. Ali's Area
26 Anxious Boys with Power Toys Mixed 15m, 2 1.1. Morfydd Wall
The Dude Abides Mixed 30m, 4 1.2. Ali's Area