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Description:© (boardlord)

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds (or stick clip if you're from NSW or like your ankles). Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish.

Start: Start 3m L of L.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 9 Dec 1980

Location:  

Located in Morfydd Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.757661,141.844843

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Community registered grade
private
22 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
22 ** ACA Route Register
22 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 65%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux tough hard super cool nice good sweet amazing classy great awesome scary fall committing short rest pockets

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Check out what is happening on Feral Chicken (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.