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Description:© (koala)

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1968


Located in Major Mitchell Gully approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844860,-36.757652

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
19 ** ** ACA Route Register
19 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
19 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
20 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 79%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crank crux sustained tough pumped struggle challenging difficult hard super fun nice fantastic good sweet brilliant great enjoyable classic awesome scary fall tricky steep rest fingers epic layback stout flake easy jamming sharp bridging jugs crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Morfydd (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.