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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

FA: Eric Shipton, Bill Tilman

2

After pulling onto the grey nose, continue straight up the arete.

FA: Bert Levy (solo), 1998

3
13 Sky Pilot Trad 35m

An OK route by a couple of disruptive characters.

Start: Scramble up to wall at left end of cliff. There's a blocky grey nose atop an orange overlap.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Yap, 1983

4
13 The Baptism Trad 30m

The second pitch is pretty stiff for the grade.

The Shepherd guide has the second pitch going right and up what is now 'Wee Skerrick' though that's hard to reconcile with the, admittedly vague, text in the Lockwood guide.

Start: Start at the easy-angled grrove about 20 metres left of 'Acapulco Gold'.

  1. 18m (7) Up the line with good protecetion and belay on obvious large diagonal ledge/ramp.

  2. 12m (13) Steeply up wall to crack then hard moves lead to easier ground.

FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen, 1970

5
12 Noa Zark Trad 45m

An old route that starts up 'The Baptism' and wanders across right to another line, which is not positively identified but is almost certainly right of 'Skarramunga'.

  1. 33m (7) Climb 'The Baptism' for 15 metres until 2 metres below big ledge. Traverse right for 18 metres and move up to the wide ledge (at foot of "Skarramunga").

  2. 12m (12) Walk around right until a black streak and groove leads to the top.

FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen, 1970

6
19 * Acapulco Gold Trad 10m

Great dogleg crack up smooth wall at the left end of the cliff.

FA: Tony Dignan, Kevin Lindorff, 1978

7
24 Whispy Things Trad 10m

Start from a cairn 2 metres right of 'Acapulco Gold' and boulder up to join 'Loudly Inferior'.

FA: Dave Mudie, 1989

8
23 Loudly Inferior Trad 10m

Up to smooth bush and then left and up to easy finish.

Start: Start at undercling 4 metres right of "Acapulco Gold".

FA: Brent Davis, Steve Lassche, Glenn Tempest, 1980

9
19 The Squeaky Wheel Trad 10m

Bouldery start and pumpy continuation.

Start: Start as for "Loudly Inferior"

FA: Unknown, 2000

10
12 Wee Skerrick Trad 12m

This is the next line up the ramp from the first belay of "The Baptism"

11
18 Skarramunga Trad 15m

Pumpy wall-climbing starting just right of "Wee Skerrick" from a block.

FA: Simon Mentz, Donald Smith, Ronnie Sammut, 1998

12

Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch. The line just to the left is a bit too broken to be a climb.

Start: Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of "Acapulco Gold"

  1. 12m (8) Folow line to good ledge on right.

  2. 18m (7) Step left then up line. When gully is reached, climb easy wall on right. Traverse right on narrow ledge to rap anchor of 'Serpent'

FA: Unknown, 2000

13
18 Ancient History Trad 47m

A wandering excursion that has not captured the imagination.

Start: Start as for 'The Nude Balloon Dance'.

  1. 24m (15) Straight up for 12 metres to left end of a ledge (This is the first pitch of The Nude Ballon Dance). Move up and right on red rock to another ledge.

  2. 23m (17) Go right along ledge and up into corner of 'Serpent'. Go up 3 metres then right to arete to finish over overhang (Serpent Direct Finish).

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1985

14
19 Renunciation Mixed 30m, 2

Hard start and finish. Grade is very height-dependent, especially the start of the final wall which will be easy for people well over 180cm tall and desperate if much shorter than that.Originally started up first few metres of 'The Nude Balloon Dance' but now has a direct start and a bolt added to final wall (with permission of Phil Armstrong). Phil originally stormed up the final wall oblivious to the lack of protection after a major falling out with his climbing partner. Start midway between 'The Nude Balloon Dance' and 'Serpent' below a short incipient flake and FH.Up past FH to ledge, step left and then up right-tending ramp. to next ledge. Go up to steep, left-leading flake and follow this to below final wall. Past FH and up to ledge and traverse right to anchor of 'Serpent'.

FA: Phillip Armstrong, J. Bohills, 1979

FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Little, Norm Booth, 2013

15
10 * Serpent Trad 43m

Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better.

Start: Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".

  1. 35m (11) Veer up left and climb orange corners, then left and up to tiny ledge. Step left then up steep, right-facing box-corner.

  2. 8m (5) Either rap off (28 metres) or walk left along ledge and go up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang, Gary Sudholz, 1967

16

Sustained with just enough protection and good finish.

Start: Start as for "Serpent"

FA: Kim Carrigan, Malcolm Matheson, 1982

17

Fairly dramatic but not obviously appealing.

Start: Start as for 'Serpent'.

  1. 36m (10) Up 'Serpent' for 25 metres then go diagonally right to a small ledge under a prominent white streak. Step across gap above roof and up to big ledge.

  2. 24m (11) Walk right 6 metres and finish up 'The Bishop'.

FA: Maurice Leslie, Garry Sudholz, 1967

18
14 The Fall of Man Trad 45m

A weird crux could fool some people.

Start: Start as for "Serpent"

  1. 25m (11) Start up "Serpent" then take right-facing corner to overhang. Through overhang and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Jam roof crack then up easy chimney.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1983

19
17 Revelations Trad 48m

The deep cleft isn't the problem; it's the technical crack at the finish.

Start: Start at the right-hand line in the cleft, as for "Serpent"

  1. 30m (15) Easily up right side of chimney to a big roof. Exit right and continue up on steep rock to a big ledge.

  2. 18m (17) Ep thin, left-leaning corner crack.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1968

20
11 ** The Bishop Trad 50m

Start: Start as for "Revelations"

  1. 26m (11) Climb steep right wall of cleft to large ledge.

  2. 24m (11) Step up to smooth orange wall. Don't go straight up but step right and pull up steep arete. Up a few more metres then veer right and up right wall.

FA: Garry Sudholz, Rod Sutherland, 1967

21
17 Stinkbug Shuffle Trad 50m
  1. 26m (11) Up the right arete of the 'Revelations' cleft to big ledge.

  2. 24m (17) Pull overhang between 'Revelations' and 'The Bishop' then trend right and up or continue up front of buttress (but be careful of huge detached blocks)

FA: Rich Stiles, Andrew Hume, Nick Stiter, 1989

22
25 * Seamy Side Mixed 18m, 1

Exciting route on overhanging orange wall at fron of the buttress.

Start: Start on righthand edge of the cleft as for "Stinkbug Shuffle".

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

23

Subtle and sustained with no protection at start.

Start: Start about 6-7 metres right of the arete at a clear initial C.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Paul Tattersall, Peter Krammel, 1982

24
24 R Not What it Seems Trad 20m

Thin, poorly protected line then easily right. Now up left to large ledge, or could continue up "Jidas" which is directly above..

Start: Start about 3 metres right of the initial C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Malcolm Matheson, 1984

25
15 Holy Roller Trad 55m

A wandering route that isn't worth it.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Behemoth' below box-groove

  1. 30m (15) Up for 5 metres to ledge. Traverse left then climb next line to blocks. Move left and up thin bulging crack and wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Step left around left arete of face then up 2 metres and step back right. Move up and right to finish.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

26
19 Jidas Trad 45m

A topo of this route was posted on the 'Arapiles' toilet notice-board. A dramatic link-up from "Holy Roller" into "Youth In Asia". There's a fair bit of lichen and the rock looks suspect in places but could be worth a look.

However, the time for naming the climb after the climbers has long passed.

Start: Start as for "Holy Roller" or "Behemoth"

FA: Jiri Srutek, Dasa Srutkova, 2010

27
15 Youth in Asia Trad 50m

A major line with lots of scary loose blocks.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Behemoth' below box-chimney.

  1. 25m (15) Climb easily across The Bishop's Crook into box=groove which is followed to loose flakes. Step left and up wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Follow line to steep yellow section. Step left below main overhang then up and back right above it, finishing up right.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

28
17 * Behemoth Trad 45m

Dramatic route but the rock can be quite alarming.

The route originally only had the top pitch. They scrambled up the gully to the first belay. The first pitch was originally part of "Youth In Asia". The climb is often done as a single long pitch.

Start: Start about 3 metres right of the initial C ut there's no good reason not to start a few metres further right directly below the box-chimney.

  1. 20m (14) Follow right-ward arching line that leads to box-chimney. Up left side of this (careful of loose flakes on right) then exit right to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Follow v-groove up wildly-steep arete.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter., 1983

29
10 The Bishop's Crook Trad 52m

Start: This probably originally started in the same place as 'The Empire Strikes Back' at the letter C, which is where we've placed it, but it would be more logical to start further right as for 'Behemoth'.

  1. 20m (12) Follow the difficult diagonal crack to box chimney. Traverse 3 metres right and climb wall to big ledge.

  2. 32m (12) Scramble up gully for 13 metres, step left onto smooth grey wall. Traverse left to arete avoiding horrible loose block and up.

FA: Murray Taylor, Rod Sutherland, 1967

30
9 He Certainly Is Trad 40m

Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock.

Start as for Youth In Asia.

  1. 15m (8) Climb up a few metres to join the traverse-line of The Bishop's Crook and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.

  2. 25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1999

31
6 * Guiding Light Trad 60m

A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere.

Start: Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.

  1. 32m (4) Climb diagonally rightwards up the easy wall to large ledge.

  2. 13m (6) Scramble 5 metres to next ledge and take vague corner-weakness 4 metres right of arete to summit. This summit has also been reached by the wall on the opposite side of the block, from within the chimney; much harder and not recommended.

  3. 15m (6) Downclimb from summit, step across chimney then up wall to main summit.

FA: Simon Mentz, James Falla, 1998

32

the one where you climb into the chimney and up the wall

33

Some nice moves. The gear is poor until the V-groove is reached but the climbing is easy to that point; better protection is available for the harder climbing.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

34
14 The Mitre Trad 25m

The major orange corner has a few boisterous moves. Be aware that the first gear is too low to keep you off the boulder if you come off the balancy slab. The topo here on thecrag.com, and the recent guidebooks, are wrong: there is no bolted anchor above this route.

FA: Unknown., 2000

35
20 Vow of Silence Trad 30m

An enigmatic start up thin crack left of 'Hopscotch'. After 6 metres head up right to a ledge on the arete and finish as for 'Hopscotch'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1983

36
21 Hopscotch Trad 20m

Used to be a grade 21 sandbag.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

37
24 Herbs and Spices Trad 15m

Hard to work out exactly which line it takes.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

38
24 * Cayenne Trad 15m

Red-hot start then good pumpy climbing.

Start: Start at a small cave below curving line 4 metres right of "Hopscotch".

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chis Shepherd, 1981

39

Start up arete just right of "Cayenne" and go into a short seam which joins "Cayenne" below the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1984

40
22 * Walk On Trad 15m

The distinctive black corner 5 metres right of "Cayenne", finishing left above the corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Steve Lassche, 1980

41
18 The Pearly Gates Trad 33m

A good technical crux and delightful top crack.

Start: Start just left of "Mum's The Word" at a nice-looking crack.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter (alts), 1983

42
19 Mum's the Word Trad 8m

Variant start to 'Speechless'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1983

43
21 * Speechless Trad 20m

This short steep, left-leaning, black-streaked corner system closely resembles "Walk On". Make sure you are on the correct route!

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1984

44

An unusual pitch that is both harder and better than it looks, and it looks quite hard to start with!

Start: Start as for "Speechless"

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Eddy Ozols, 1978

45
21 * Anything At AlI Trad 20m

Good sustained climbing. Protection is good but placing it is tiring.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1980

46
18 Off the Shelf Trad 20m

This looks like a good route but the climbing in the upper section ends up being contrived. Oh, and the hanging shield thingy in the upper section is just as it looks, a nearly detached flake.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Anything At All"

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Chris Baxter (alt originally done in 2 pitches), 1984

47
16 Shelf Life Trad 30m

Another OK climb that's in the shade on a hot morning. Shares the good start of "Off The Shelf" and takes an easier logical finish just left of the easy corner. Good rock and protection.

Start: Start as for "Off The Shelf".

FA: Unknown, 2000