South Mitre All trad climbing47 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Subtle and sustained with no protection at start.
Start: Start about 6-7 metres right of the arete at a clear initial C.
FA: Jeff Lamb, Paul Tattersall & Peter Krammel, 1982
Thin, poorly protected line then easily right. Now up left to large ledge, or could continue up "Jidas" which is directly above..
Start: Start about 3 metres right of the initial C.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson, 1984
A wandering route that isn't worth it.
Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Behemoth' below box-groove
30m (15) Up for 5 metres to ledge. Traverse left then climb next line to blocks. Move left and up thin bulging crack and wall to ledge.
25m (15) Step left around left arete of face then up 2 metres and step back right. Move up and right to finish.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983
A topo of this route was posted on the 'Arapiles' toilet notice-board. A dramatic link-up from "Holy Roller" into "Youth In Asia". There's a fair bit of lichen and the rock looks suspect in places but could be worth a look.
However, the time for naming the climb after the climbers has long passed.
FA: Jiri Srutek & Dasa Srutkova, 2010
A major line with lots of scary loose blocks.
Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Behemoth' below box-chimney.
25m (15) Climb easily across The Bishop's Crook into box=groove which is followed to loose flakes. Step left and up wall to ledge.
25m (15) Follow line to steep yellow section. Step left below main overhang then up and back right above it, finishing up right.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983
Dramatic route but the rock can be quite alarming.
The route originally only had the top pitch. They scrambled up the gully to the first belay. The first pitch was originally part of "Youth In Asia". The climb is often done as a single long pitch.
Start: Start about 3 metres right of the initial C ut there's no good reason not to start a few metres further right directly below the box-chimney.
20m (14) Follow right-ward arching line that leads to box-chimney. Up left side of this (careful of loose flakes on right) then exit right to ledge.
25m (17) Follow v-groove up wildly-steep arete.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter., 1983
Start: This probably originally started in the same place as 'The Empire Strikes Back' at the letter C, which is where we've placed it, but it would be more logical to start further right as for 'Behemoth'.
20m (12) Follow the difficult diagonal crack to box chimney. Traverse 3 metres right and climb wall to big ledge.
32m (12) Scramble up gully for 13 metres, step left onto smooth grey wall. Traverse left to arete avoiding horrible loose block and up.
FA: Murray Taylor & Rod Sutherland, 1967
Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock.
Start as for Youth In Asia.
15m (8) Climb up a few metres to join the traverse-line of The Bishop's Crook and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.
25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999
A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere.
Start: Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.
32m (4) Climb diagonally rightwards up the easy wall to large ledge.
13m (6) Scramble 5 metres to next ledge and take vague corner-weakness 4 metres right of arete to summit. This summit has also been reached by the wall on the opposite side of the block, from within the chimney; much harder and not recommended.
15m (6) Downclimb from summit, step across chimney then up wall to main summit.
FA: Simon Mentz & James Falla, 1998
the one where you climb into the chimney and up the wall
Some nice moves. The gear is poor until the V-groove is reached but the climbing is easy to that point; better protection is available for the harder climbing.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983
The major orange corner has a few boisterous moves. Be aware that the first gear is too low to keep you off the boulder if you come off the balancy slab. The topo here on thecrag.com, and the recent guidebooks, are wrong: there is no bolted anchor above this route.
FA: Unknown., 2000
Used to be a grade 21 sandbag.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1981
Hard to work out exactly which line it takes.
FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985
Red-hot start then good pumpy climbing.
Start: Start at a small cave below curving line 4 metres right of "Hopscotch".
FA: Mark Moorhead & Chis Shepherd, 1981
The distinctive black corner 5 metres right of "Cayenne", finishing left above the corner.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980
A good technical crux and delightful top crack.
Start: Start just left of "Mum's The Word" at a nice-looking crack.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter (alts), 1983
This short steep, left-leaning, black-streaked corner system closely resembles "Walk On". Make sure you are on the correct route!
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1984
An unusual pitch that is both harder and better than it looks, and it looks quite hard to start with!
Start: Start as for "Speechless"
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1978
Good sustained climbing. Protection is good but placing it is tiring.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1980
This looks like a good route but the climbing in the upper section ends up being contrived. Oh, and the hanging shield thingy in the upper section is just as it looks, a nearly detached flake.
Start: Start 2 metres right of "Anything At All"
FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Chris Baxter (alt originally done in 2 pitches), 1984