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Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock South Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

FA: Eric Shipton & Bill Tilman

After pulling onto the grey nose, continue straight up the arete.

FA: Bert Levy (solo), 1998

An OK route by a couple of disruptive characters.

Start: Scramble up to wall at left end of cliff. There's a blocky grey nose atop an orange overlap.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tony Yap, 1983

The second pitch is pretty stiff for the grade.

The Shepherd guide has the second pitch going right and up what is now 'Wee Skerrick' though that's hard to reconcile with the, admittedly vague, text in the Lockwood guide.

Start: Start at the easy-angled grrove about 20 metres left of 'Acapulco Gold'.

  1. 18m (7) Up the line with good protecetion and belay on obvious large diagonal ledge/ramp.

  2. 12m (13) Steeply up wall to crack then hard moves lead to easier ground.

FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970

Great dogleg crack up smooth wall at the left end of the cliff.

FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Start from a cairn 2 metres right of 'Acapulco Gold' and boulder up to join 'Loudly Inferior'.

FA: Dave Mudie, 1989

Up to smooth bush and then left and up to easy finish.

Start: Start at undercling 4 metres right of "Acapulco Gold".

FA: Brent Davis, Steve Lassche & Glenn Tempest, 1980

Hard start with no gear till a few metres up. Pumpy continuation up and right.

Start: Start as for "Loudly Inferior"

FA: Unknown, 2000

This is the next line up the ramp from the first belay of "The Baptism"

Pumpy wall-climbing starting just right of "Wee Skerrick" from a block.

FA: Simon Mentz, Donald Smith & Ronnie Sammut, 1998

A quite good top pitch. This old route originally started up 'The Baptism' and then traversed right in a very strange way only a few metres below the major ledge system. Here it's described with a direct start just left of 'The Nude Balloon Dance', offering a much better climb. The first pitch can be done as an easy climb in it's own right - has some OK moves but is a bit broken..

  1. 30m (8) Climb the line 2m left of 'The Nude Balloon Dance' until below the steep orange headwall. Move left and up to the major ledge system.

  2. 12m (14) A hard pull into the shallow black corner then traverse right for 2m and move up. Now up and slightly left to finish almost directly above the start of the pitch.

FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970

Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch.

Start: Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of "Acapulco Gold"

  1. 12m (8) Folow line to good ledge on right.

  2. 18m (7) Step left then up line. When gully is reached, climb easy wall on right. Traverse right on narrow ledge to rap anchor of 'Serpent'

FA: Unknown, 2000

A wandering excursion that has not captured the imagination.

Start: Start as for 'The Nude Balloon Dance'.

  1. 24m (15) Straight up for 12 metres to left end of a ledge (This is the first pitch of The Nude Ballon Dance). Move up and right on red rock to another ledge.

  2. 23m (17) Go right along ledge and up into corner of 'Serpent'. Go up 3 metres then right to arete to finish over overhang (Serpent Direct Finish).

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Hard start and finish. Grade is very height-dependent, especially the start of the final wall which will be easy for people well over 180cm tall and desperate if much shorter than that.Originally started up first few metres of 'The Nude Balloon Dance' but now has a direct start and a bolt added to final wall (with permission of Phil Armstrong). Phil originally stormed up the final wall oblivious to the lack of protection after a major falling out with his climbing partner. Start midway between 'The Nude Balloon Dance' and 'Serpent' below a short incipient flake and FH.Up past FH to ledge, step left and then up right-tending ramp. to next ledge. Go up to steep, left-leading flake and follow this to below final wall. Past FH and up to ledge and traverse right to anchor of 'Serpent'.

FA: Phillip Armstrong & J. Bohills, 1979

FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 16 Mar 2013

The start is a bit like Paladin but three grades easier.

Overhanging seam between Renunciation and Serpent LHS, ramble up a bit then arete and wall past two bolts to Serpent chains. Pro is hard to place on the start.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Geordie Webb, Ben Wiessner & Wendy Eden, Mar 2016

Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better.

Start: Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".

  1. 35m (11) Veer up left and climb orange corners, then left and up to tiny ledge. Step left then up steep, right-facing box-corner.

  2. 8m (5) Either rap off (28 metres) or walk left along ledge and go up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang & Gary Sudholz, 1967

Sustained with a good finish. Start as for "Serpent" Follow Serpent for 25 metres then up the steep corner on the right. Pull through overhang and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson, 1982

Fairly dramatic but not obviously appealing.

Start: Start as for 'Serpent'.

  1. 36m (10) Up 'Serpent' for 25 metres then go diagonally right to a small ledge under a prominent white streak. Step across gap above roof and up to big ledge.

  2. 24m (11) Walk right 6 metres and finish up 'The Bishop'.

FA: Maurice Leslie & Garry Sudholz, 1967

A weird crux could fool some people.

Start: Start as for "Serpent"

  1. 25m (11) Start up "Serpent" then take right-facing corner to overhang. Through overhang and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Jam roof crack then up easy chimney.

FA: Chris Baxter & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1983

The deep cleft isn't the problem; it's the technical crack at the finish.

Start at the right-hand line in the cleft, as for "Serpent"

  1. 30m (15) Easily up right side of chimney to a big roof. Exit right and continue up on steep rock to a big ledge.

  2. 18m (17) Up thin, left-leaning corner crack to easy ground.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1968

Start: Start as for "Revelations"

  1. 26m (11) Climb steep right wall of cleft to large ledge.

  2. 24m (11) Step up to smooth orange wall. Don't go straight up but step right and pull up steep arete. Up a few more metres then veer right and up right wall.

FA: Garry Sudholz & Rod Sutherland, 1967

  1. 26m (11) Up the right arete of the 'Revelations' cleft to big ledge.

  2. 24m (17) Pull overhang between 'Revelations' and 'The Bishop' then trend right and up or continue up front of buttress (but be careful of huge detached blocks)

FA: Rich Stiles, Andrew Hume & Nick Stiter, 1989

Exciting route on overhanging orange wall at fron of the buttress.

Start: Start on righthand edge of the cleft as for "Stinkbug Shuffle".

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Subtle and sustained with small protection at start which is hard to place.

Start: Start about 6-7 metres right of the arete at a clear initial C.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Paul Tattersall & Peter Krammel, 1982

Thin, poorly protected line then easily right. Now up left to large ledge, or could continue up "Jidas" which is directly above..

Start: Start about 3 metres right of the initial C.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson, 1984

A wandering route that isn't worth it.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Behemoth' below box-groove

  1. 30m (15) Up for 5 metres to ledge. Traverse left then climb next line to blocks. Move left and up thin bulging crack and wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Step left around left arete of face then up 2 metres and step back right. Move up and right to finish.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

A topo of this route was posted on the 'Arapiles' toilet notice-board. A dramatic link-up from "Holy Roller" into "Youth In Asia". There's a fair bit of lichen and the rock looks suspect in places but could be worth a look.

However, the time for naming the climb after the climbers has long passed.

Start: Start as for "Holy Roller" or "Behemoth"

FA: Jiri Srutek & Dasa Srutkova, 24 Nov 2010

A major line with lots of scary loose blocks.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Behemoth' below box-chimney.

  1. 25m (15) Climb easily across The Bishop's Crook into box=groove which is followed to loose flakes. Step left and up wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Follow line to steep yellow section. Step left below main overhang then up and back right above it, finishing up right.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Dramatic route but the rock can be quite alarming.

The route originally only had the top pitch. They scrambled up the gully to the first belay. The first pitch was originally part of "Youth In Asia". The climb is often done as a single long pitch.

Start: Start about 3 metres right of the initial C ut there's no good reason not to start a few metres further right directly below the box-chimney.

  1. 20m (14) Follow right-ward arching line that leads to box-chimney. Up left side of this (careful of loose flakes on right) then exit right to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Follow v-groove up wildly-steep arete.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter., 1983

Start: This probably originally started in the same place as 'The Empire Strikes Back' at the letter C, which is where we've placed it, but it would be more logical to start further right as for 'Behemoth'.

  1. 20m (12) Follow the difficult diagonal crack to box chimney. Traverse 3 metres right and climb wall to big ledge.

  2. 32m (12) Scramble up gully for 13 metres, step left onto smooth grey wall. Traverse left to arete avoiding horrible loose block and up.

FA: Murray Taylor & Rod Sutherland, 1967

Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock. Start as for Youth In Asia.

  1. 15m (8) Climb up a couple of metres to join the traverse-line of 'The Bishop's Crook' and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.

  2. 25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999

Takes prominent ramp on the wall left of 'Guiding Light'. Essentially provides an easier finish to 'He Certainly Is'. Start in the gully uphill from 'The Bishop’s Crook'.

  1. 18m Up nice grey wall opposite 'Guiding Light', with a step right 3-4m up. Belay on big ledge.

  2. 14m Short crack, then follow right-trending ramp to the base of the prominent corner.

  3. 18m Climb the shorter (and easier) corner on the right, then trend up right to top-out where Guiding Light finishes.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 24 Sep 2015

Climbs Pitch one to ledge, then through gulley to exit

A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere.

Start: Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.

  1. 32m (4) Climb diagonally rightwards up the easy wall to large ledge.

  2. 13m (6) Scramble 5 metres to next ledge and take vague corner-weakness 4 metres right of arete to summit. This summit has also been reached by the wall on the opposite side of the block, from within the chimney; much harder and not recommended.

  3. 15m (6) Downclimb from summit, step across chimney then up wall to main summit.

FA: Simon Mentz & James Falla, 1998

the one where you climb into the chimney and up the wall

Some nice moves. The gear is poor until the V-groove is reached but the climbing is easy to that point; better protection is available for the harder climbing.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

The major orange corner has a few boisterous moves. Be aware that the first gear is too low to keep you off the boulder if you come off the balancy slab.

FA: Unknown., 2000

An enigmatic start up thin crack left of 'Hopscotch'. After 6 metres head up right to a ledge on the arete and finish as for 'Hopscotch'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983

Used to be a grade 21 sandbag.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Up to the roof, left through it and up. Quite fun on toprope.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

Red-hot start then good pumpy climbing.

Start: Start at a small cave below curving line 4 metres right of "Hopscotch".

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chis Shepherd, 1981

Start up arete just right of "Cayenne" and go into a short seam which joins "Cayenne" below the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1984

The distinctive black corner 5 metres right of "Cayenne", finishing left above the corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980

A good technical crux and delightful top crack.

Start: Start just left of "Mum's The Word" at a nice-looking crack.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter (alts), 1983

Variant start to 'Speechless'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983

This short steep, left-leaning, black-streaked corner system closely resembles "Walk On". Make sure you are on the correct route!

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1984

An unusual pitch that is both harder and better than it looks, and it looks quite hard to start with!

Start: Start as for "Speechless" or "Anything at All" and traverse in.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1978

Good sustained climbing. Protection is good but placing it is tiring.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1980

Toprope up the wall R of Anything At All. OK, nothing special.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2012

Not that good, a bit loose and contrived.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Anything At All"

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Chris Baxter (alt originally done in 2 pitches), 1984

Another OK climb that's in the shade on a hot morning. Shares the good start of "Off The Shelf" and takes an easier logical finish just left of the easy corner. Good rock and protection.

Start: Start as for "Off The Shelf".

FA: Unknown, 2000


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