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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
10 Mark Route #1 Trad 12m

2 meters L of When Kim Was a Girls Name, up weakness to front of butress and R to finish a the top of WKWAGN

FA: Mark Thomas Jonathan Kendall, 2003

2

Climb wall direct to a prominent sentry-box at top of cliff.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1983

3
16 Altar Boy Trad 11m

Face left of "Armageddon" to orange bulge which is turned on right. The bulge has been taken direct at 20 via a line half a metre left of this one.

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe, Merv Trease, 1980

4
11 Armageddon Trad 13m

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

5
9 Hell's Bells Trad 13m

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

6

Go straight up, moving slightly right to a contrived, but worthwhile finish.

Start: Start as for "Hell's Bells"

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe, 1980

7
13 Lucifer Trad 8m

Offwidth crack 2 metres right of "Hell's Bells"

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

8
16 * Might...not Trad 12m

A steep, pure hand-crack splits the front of the second outcrop at the base of the gully.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (FRA), 1983

9
18 The Gab Gets Up Trad 8m

A most sustained mini-route. This is on little pinnacle on opposite (northern) side of gully from 'Hells Bells' etc. Easiest to cut across from there than to approach directly up the gully.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Richard Smith, Dave Mudie, 1989

10

Good but there's only a 20-year-old piton between you and the deck on the crux and it's a long way up to the next runner.

FA: Dave Mudie, Richard Smith, 1989

11
20 X Gabdnas Trad 10m

Lovely face but the cryptic name and ascentionists should give pause; the eman is not a misnomer. The grade has been arbitrarily bumped up from 18 to 20 and the deadly flag applied to give fair warning. A toprope inspection is advised.

FA: Initially Sado Masochistic Items That Hurt, Shonkis with a bit of fiddling, 1995