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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kieran Loughran Mark Thomas Michael Weare David Barnes Paul McWaters benjamin james eichler Paul "LittleMac" McWaters Piotr Bankowski Andrew Peters

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Hells Bells Area 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad,Top Rope
Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Mark Route #1

2 meters L of When Kim Was a Girls Name, up weakness to front of butress and R to finish a the top of WKWAGN

FA: Mark Thomas Jonathan Kendall, 2003

10
Trad 12m
2 When Kim Was a Girl's Name

Climb wall direct to a prominent sentry-box at top of cliff.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1983

14
Trad 12m
Pete Gollan 5 years ago

Gold.

Dario "Mars" Mofardin 5 years ago

repeat with Kim

3 Altar Boy

Face left of "Armageddon" to orange bulge which is turned on right. The bulge has been taken direct at 20 via a line half a metre left of this one.

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe, Merv Trease, 1980

16
Trad 11m
Paul Badenoch 4 years ago

Short and sweet.

jonathan Whitfield 5 years ago

if it wasnt the escape off a 20, it would have a star

4 Armageddon

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

11
Trad 13m
Dario "Mars" Mofardin 5 years ago

repeat with Kim

Paul Badenoch 8 years ago

Good little climb.

5 Hell's Bells

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

9
Trad 13m
Anton Steketee 1 years ago

Prolly more like a 7 or 8.

Dario "Mars" Mofardin 5 years ago

another good lead by Kimbo

6 Hell's Bells Direct

Go straight up, moving slightly right to a contrived, but worthwhile finish.

Start: Start as for "Hell's Bells"

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe, 1980

17
Trad 11m
Neil Monteith 8 years ago

short and contrived

Julian 10 years ago

good climb

7 Lucifer

Offwidth crack 2 metres right of "Hell's Bells"

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

13
Trad 8m
Neil Monteith 8 years ago

onsight solo. a bit desperate for a 13 with hand/fist jams.

8 * Might...not

A steep, pure hand-crack splits the front of the second outcrop at the base of the gully.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (FRA), 1983

16
Trad 12m
Linton Henderson 10 years ago

Ant 2nd

9 The Gab Gets Up

A most sustained mini-route. This is on little pinnacle on opposite (northern) side of gully from 'Hells Bells' etc. Easiest to cut across from there than to approach directly up the gully.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Richard Smith, Dave Mudie, 1989

18
Trad 8m
10 Screwloose and Sexless

Good but there's only a 20-year-old piton between you and the deck on the crux and it's a long way up to the next runner.

FA: Dave Mudie, Richard Smith, 1989

19 R
Trad 10m
11 Gabdnas

Lovely face but the cryptic name and ascentionists should give pause; the eman is not a misnomer. The grade has been arbitrarily bumped up from 18 to 20 and the deadly flag applied to give fair warning. A toprope inspection is advised.

FA: Initially Sado Masochistic Items That Hurt, Shonkis with a bit of fiddling, 1995

20 X
Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
9 Hell's Bells Trad 13m
10 Mark Route #1 Trad 12m
11 Armageddon Trad 13m
13 Lucifer Trad 8m
14 When Kim Was a Girl's Name Trad 12m
16 Altar Boy Trad 11m
* Might...not Trad 12m
17 Hell's Bells Direct Trad 11m
18 The Gab Gets Up Trad 8m
19 Screwloose and Sexless Trad 10m
20 Gabdnas Trad 10m