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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Invaders From Mars Trad 10m

Up the gully, on the pinnacle opposite 'Prelate', on the side facing the carpark.

This was left out of Lou's guide but may as well include it.

FA: Ryan Robertson, Peter Kraehenbuhl, Glen Hordacre, 1987

2
18 * Prelate Trad 14m

Testy overhang.

Start: At top (right-hand) end of wall facing into the gully is obvious overhang with an unusual peanut-shaped jug above

FA: David Shirra, Chris Baxter, 1980

3

Up past hole and up arete, through small steepening.

Start: Squeezed between the 'Prelate' and 'The Priest' (ooh er).

FA: FRA Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2002

4
9 The Priest Trad 20m

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

FA: Murray Taylor, Rod Sutherland, 1967

5
9 Gloop Trad 16m

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

FA: Eddie Ozols (solo), 1978

6
7 The Deviant Trad 10m

Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between.

FA: Unknown, 2000

7
15 Deacons Dilemma Trad 16m

Delightful moves up wall and thin bottomless crack 2 metres left of "The Priest"

FA: Peter Martin, K. Deacon, 1979

8
9 The Deacon Trad 12m

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

FA: Murray Taylor, Rod Sutherland, 1967