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Table of contents

1. Deacon Area 8 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.831410, -36.736261


Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock North Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Invaders From Mars

Up the gully, on the pinnacle opposite 'Prelate', on the side facing the carpark.

This was left out of Lou's guide but may as well include it.

FA: Ryan Robertson, Peter Kraehenbuhl, Glen Hordacre, 1987

17 Trad 10m
2 * Prelate

Testy overhang.

Start: At top (right-hand) end of wall facing into the gully is obvious overhang with an unusual peanut-shaped jug above

FA: David Shirra, Chris Baxter, 1980

18 Trad 14m
3 Hollingworth and the Little Boy

Up past hole and up arete, through small steepening.

Start: Squeezed between the 'Prelate' and 'The Priest' (ooh er).

FA: FRA Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2002

15 Trad 10m
4 The Priest

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

FA: Murray Taylor, Rod Sutherland, 1967

9 Trad 20m
5 Gloop

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

FA: Eddie Ozols (solo), 1978

9 Trad 16m
6 The Deviant

Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between.

FA: Unknown, 2000

7 Trad 10m
7 * Deacons Dilemma

Delightful moves up wall and thin bottomless crack 2 metres left of "The Priest"

FA: Peter Martin, K. Deacon, 1979

15 Trad 16m
8 The Deacon

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

FA: Murray Taylor, Rod Sutherland, 1967

9 Trad 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 The Deviant Trad 10m
9 Gloop Trad 16m
The Deacon Trad 12m
The Priest Trad 20m
15 * Deacons Dilemma Trad 16m
Hollingworth and the Little Boy Trad 10m
17 Invaders From Mars Trad 10m
18 * Prelate Trad 14m