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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 One For The Road Trad 15m

Short but worthwhile.

Start: Start at right side of wall at a cluster of pockets.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter, 1985

3

Strange climbing up the guano-stained scoop with minimal protection at the crux. There's a fairly worthless direct start (23) 3 metres to the right past a bolt (John Gandy, Simon Carter 11-89).

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young, Phillip Armstrong., 1977

4
26 * Soldier Sailor Mixed 20m, 1

All natural, but painfully small holds.

Start: Start as for "Roadside Attraction"

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

5
25 Tinker Taylor Mixed 25m, 2

Nic Taylor chipped the holds but couldn't do the climb.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

6
23 * Tayloring a Trend Trad 25m

A beautiful wall but with chipped holds.

Start: Start below a bolt 3 metres left of "Tinker Taylor"

FA: Nic Taylor, Craig Nottle, 1983

7
20 Beelzebub Direct Start Mixed 10m, 1

A ridiculously hard start for "Beelzebub" .

Start: Start as for "Tayloring A Trend", below bolt.

FA: Tony Marian, Kim Carrigan, 1978

8
17 Beelzebub Trad 27m

A funky little thing. Double ropes help and a #4 cam helps to ignore unnecessary atrocious bolt. Start at the right edge of the deep cleft of 'Belltower'. Up to horizontal and traverse 5 metres right to layback crack to ledge. Up crack past old bolt to chimney.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

9
24 * Template Trad 25m

"You'll need the reach of a sick dog", Tony Marian.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, 1978

10
13 R Belltower Trad 40m

Easy bridging up deep chimney left of 'Beelzebub' with poor protection.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang, 1967

11
23 ** Nuns Love It Mixed 20m, 2

Up cruxy bulging face past fixed hanger to ledge, then trad up easier face and crack to overlap past second fixed hanger,crux, then up to rap station.

FA: muki Woods/toby

12
19 Bellfry Trad 10m

Bouldery problem 3 metres left of 'Belltower', just left of the first FH of 'Nuns Love It'. Walk off right into the base of 'Belltower'.

FA: Dave Mudie, 1988

13
20 R Forgotten Archive Trad 30m

The initial wall of this is pretty crowded with 3 independent starts within about 3 metres.

Start: Start 4 metres left of 'Belltower'.

FA: Dave Mudie, Keith Lockwood, Richard Smith. Keith Egerton had possibly climbed the initial wall earlier., 1988

14
13 Bostok Trad 40m

Scramble to the top of ramp. Now go up short crack and scoop, trending right, and then back left and through overlap.

Start: Start at a ramp running up diagonally right 12 metres left of "Belltower" and just left of a large conifer growing against the cliff.

FA: Phillip Armstrong, Tony Marian, Tony Dignan, 1977

15
15 R Mullumbimby Madness Trad 40m

Good climbing with a committing bulge at 7 metres.

Start: Start 1 metre left of "Bostok" at 2 vertical seams.

FA: Tony Dignan, Phillip Armstrong, Tony Marian, 1977

16
16 R Striking Chords Trad 40m

Boulder up tiny smooth bulge straight to the peg on Gulp. Go diagonally right (in 'Mullumbimby Madness' for a move), pull bulge the left to incipient cracks 2 metres right of Gulp.

FA: Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson, 1983

17
12 Gulp Trad 45m

Up and right to ancient peg runner then left and up onto grassy ramp and wander up this.

Start: Start 8 metres left of the conifer near the "Bostok" ramp. There's a ramp of spiky grass at 8 metres.

FA: Shorty Turner and members of Z Commando Company, 1967

18
17 Passover Trad 50m

Start: Start as for Gulp.

  1. 38m (17) Direct past peg on Gulp to the grass. Straight up wall, starting up a thin crack. Veer up left to another small wall. Climb central crack in wall, drift a fraction left then finish centrally. Continue easily (to obvious horizontal overlap).

  2. 12m (-) Pull over overlap and finish left of centre via square cut headwall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran. (alt), 1998

19

This is looking a bit lichenous.

Start: Start 7 metres left of "Gulp"

FA: Keith Lockwood, Dave Mudie, 1988

20

Desperate start with cosmetic protection into easy line right of 'Salem'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

21

Unbalanced in more than one sense.

FA: Rod Young, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

22
18 ** Salem Trad 40m

Sustained technical climbing on beautiful rock.

Start: Shallow flake-corner 12 metres left of "Gulp".

FA: Rod Young, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

23
18 ** Morgul Khan Trad 40m

More very nice climbing which is quite satisfying even though it squibs the obvious direct finish, "Morgaul Can't", which is just that bit more serious.

Start: Start at easy corner 3 metres left of "Salem".

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Rod Young, 1977

24
19 * Morgul Can't Trad 40m

Obvious direct finish to "Morgul Khan" but a crucial flake is suspect.

Start: Start as for "Morgul Khan".

FA: Richard Smith, Sonia Jones, 1986

25
12 Iago Trad 45m

OK.

Start: Start as for "Morgul Khan".

FA: Rod Young (solo), 1977

26
14 Morgul Won't Trad 40m

Start: Below Edgell Gerber is a short crack to gain the ledge.

  1. 25m (14) Start up this then from the ledge diagonal right to gain a crack between Iago and Morgul Can't. Up this to ledge.

  2. 15m (-) Step across the DA chimney and climb the wall.

FA: Hamilton, Woodser. (alt), 1996

27

Climb short crack 1 metre right of 'Exodus' to ledge then the chimney-gully on the left side of the 'Salem' wall.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1967

28

An exciting flake though maybe only just scrapes in for the star.

Start: Start as for "The Devil's Advocate".

FA: Phillip Armstrong, Roger Murphy, 1977

29
17 * The Wilderness Trad 30m

Usually top-roped

FA: Peter Martin, Andrew Oates, 1992

30
6 ** Exodus Trad 36m

Delightful.

Start: Start just right of a detached little pinnacle and just left of "Edgell Gerber" at a shallow corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang, 1967

31
17 Diaspora Trad 25m

A bit contrived.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman (FRA), 1991

32
13 Mason's Apron Trad 24m

Nice climbing, just avoid the hollow rock at the start.

Start: Start in the middle of the wall left of "Exodus", behind little pinnacle.

FA: Dick Evans, John Stone, 1979

33
16 R Lema Sabachthani Trad 15m

The poorly protected start makes the left arete of "Mason's Apron" a serious lead.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Mike Stone, 1984

34

The little crack on the right wall of the gully around left from "Lema Sabachtami" has a hard start. Clipping the first bolt of "Apron Strings" might be tempting.

FA: Geoff Weigand, Bert Levy, 1980

35
24 Apron Strings Mixed 10m, 2

Bolted line on back wall of Mason's Apron. Short and powerful.

Start: Start on the back of the Mason's Apron block.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

36
6 Short and Curly Trad 8m

Done 'Exodus' and 'Cloaca' and looking for another easy route?

Start: Below the Mason's Apron (left of Exodus) is a short pinnacle. This climbs the tallest part of the outside face.

FA: Woodser, Kirsty Hamilton, 1996

37

The full name is "Regarding Apocalyptic 'Simpleton' 'Simpleton' Fun Penis Shooter Shrug Woof Hello". Despite this, it is not a great climb.

Start: Start 2m left of "Through the Dardanelles".

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Keiran Loughran, Paul Hoskins, Deb Sweet, James Falla, Jan Pritchard, Bryn Smith, Jon Bassindale, Salix, 1999

38

An enormous pile of bat guano.

Start: Start below middle of big diagonal crack and scramble up to a ledge with an enormous pile of bat guano beneath roof.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 2000

39

Space filler.

FA: Bendigo CAE Students, 1990

40
6 R Cloaca Trad 30m

A good climb for beginners to follow as protection is limited.

Start: Start 2 metres left of V-corner of "Pete Made Us Do It"

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, 1993

41
9 The Parson's Nose Trad 35m

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of "Mason's Apron"; there's a small, chipped mark near the ground..

  1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

  2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Glen Corcoran, Phil Hay, 1973

42
11 Bangla Desh Trad 36m

Worthless. Has lots of loose blocks as well.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter, 1973

43

Old-fashioned jamming up the line through a couple of overhangs. Be wary of loose blocks near the top.

Start: Start immediatley left of "Bangla Desh" at obvious crack-line.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman, Keith Lockwood, Peter Watling, 1973

44
13 Leather Bound Trad 40m

OK.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Watling, 1984

45
11 * Penny Dreadful Trad 40m

Start: Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of "Archbishop".

  1. 27m (11) Hard, avoidable, start up seam and through small bulge at 5 metres to ledge. Veer left to right-facing corner. A tricky move into corner then up to ledge.

  2. 15m (5) Juggy wall above.

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Gen Corcoran, Phill Hay, 1973

46
14 * Witch Hunt Trad 40m
  1. 27m (14) Start as for "Penny Dreadful" but diagonal delicately left and up to small undercling roof. Move up and right into right-facing corner and up to ledge.

  2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

FA: Rod Young, Phillip Armstrong, 1977

47
18 Witch Craft Trad 40m

Start 2 metres right of Archbishop and go straight up wall to flat roof below left arete. Over this to seam just right of arete.

FA: Peter Martin, Andrew Oates, 1992

48
11 The Archbishop Trad 48m

Start: Start at the painted initial

  1. 27m (10) Follow crack to V-corner and bridge up this to ledge.

  2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

FA: Geoff Uebergang, Keith Lockwood, 1967

49

If you're tired of 'Arapiles' you're tired of life.

FA: Jon Muir, 1984