- Height: 30m
- Bolts: 2
- Ascents: 3
Hard start and finish. Grade is very height-dependent, especially the start of the final wall which will be easy for people well over 180cm tall and desperate if much shorter than that.Originally started up first few metres of 'The Nude Balloon Dance' but now has a direct start and a bolt added to final wall (with permission of Phil Armstrong). Phil originally stormed up the final wall oblivious to the lack of protection after a major falling out with his climbing partner. Start midway between 'The Nude Balloon Dance' and 'Serpent' below a short incipient flake and FH.Up past FH to ledge, step left and then up right-tending ramp. to next ledge. Go up to steep, left-leading flake and follow this to below final wall. Past FH and up to ledge and traverse right to anchor of 'Serpent'.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Phillip Armstrong & J. Bohills, 1979
First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 2013
Located in South Mitre approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|19||Community registered grade|
|17||ACA Route Register|
|17||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
Overall quality score: 33%
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