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Hard start and finish. Grade is very height-dependent, especially the start of the final wall which will be easy for people well over 180cm tall and desperate if much shorter than that.Originally started up first few metres of 'The Nude Balloon Dance' but now has a direct start and a bolt added to final wall (with permission of Phil Armstrong). Phil originally stormed up the final wall oblivious to the lack of protection after a major falling out with his climbing partner. Start midway between 'The Nude Balloon Dance' and 'Serpent' below a short incipient flake and FH.Up past FH to ledge, step left and then up right-tending ramp. to next ledge. Go up to steep, left-leading flake and follow this to below final wall. Past FH and up to ledge and traverse right to anchor of 'Serpent'.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Phillip Armstrong & J. Bohills, 1979

  • First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 2013

    Direct Start


Located in South Mitre approx:
Long/Lat: 141.831505,-36.736835

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 ACA Route Register
19 Principal

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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