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The deep cleft isn't the problem; it's the technical crack at the finish.

Start at the right-hand line in the cleft, as for "Serpent"

  1. 30m (15) Easily up right side of chimney to a big roof. Exit right and continue up on steep rock to a big ledge.

  2. 18m (17) Up thin, left-leaning corner crack to easy ground.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Phillip Stranger, 1968


Located in South Mitre approx:
Lat/Long: -36.736835,141.831505

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 * ACA Route Register
17 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 55%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tired crux tough good classic superb feet interesting jamming technical

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Check out what is happening on Revelations (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.