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Description

Almost every hold has it's own name.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

FA: Lionel Clay, Kurt Smith, 1986

2

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

3
22 Follow Your Nose Mixed 12m, 1

Very pumpy.

Start: Start near the top left end of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, Ian Anger, 1982

4

Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings".

Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose"

FA: James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1987

5
26 ** The Fortress Sport 18m

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Dave Fearnley, Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982

6
29 * Gridlock Trad 22m

Straightens out Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

7
28 *** Slinkin' Leopard Trad 30m

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start: Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

8

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FFA: Jerry Mot, 1992

9

From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up.

FA: Andrew Lindblade, Ian Anger, 1991

10

Very hard crux down low

11
26 ** Wackford Squeers Sport 30m, 3

Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse.

Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

12

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000

13

FA: Nathan Hoette

14
31 *** Lord of the Rings Trad 25m

The "crazy linkup" of this route into Slinkin' Leopard was done by Nathan Hoette at grade 30 in 2004.

Start: Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

FA: Stefan Glowacz

15

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985

16
20 Going For The One Trad 40m

The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem.

Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

17
18
25 *** Henry Bolte Sport 30m, 3

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1983

19
23 Got It! Trad 45m

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand, Brian Wright, 1981

20
17 * Barbed Trad 42m

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

  1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

  2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Hebdon, 1981

21
23 Gurtle Tier Mixed 25m, 2

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed".

FA: Two Germans., 1996

22
23 White on Black Trad 12m

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Broadbent, Louise Shepherd, 1982

23
23 School for Scandal Trad 25m
24
12 The CIown Trad 78m

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

  1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

  2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

  3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth.., 1968

25

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

26
19 * Not Invented Here Mixed 25m, 1

Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 2011

27
20 * Zero Gravitas Mixed 25m, 4

Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd, Norm Booth, 2012

28
16 Clear Conscience Trad 20m

"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977