Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

FA: Lionel Clay, Kurt Smith, 1986

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

Very pumpy.

Start: Start near the top left end of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, Ian Anger, 1982

Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings".

Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose"

FA: James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1987

The Fortress

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Dave Fearnley, Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982

Gridlock

Straightens out Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Slinkin' Leopard

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start: Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

Zorlac The Destroyer

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FFA: Jerry Mot, 1992

From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up.

FA: Andrew Lindblade, Ian Anger, 1991

Wackford Squeers Direct

Very hard crux down low

Wackford Squeers

Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse.

Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Lord Of The Rings Direct

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000

Chuckles Bolty

FA: Nathan Hoette,

Lord of the Rings

The "crazy linkup" of this route into Slinkin' Leopard was done by Nathan Hoette at grade 30 in 2004.

Start: Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

FA: Stefan Glowacz,

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985

The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem.

Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Henry Bolte

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1983

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand, Brian Wright, 1981

Barbed

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Hebdon, 1981

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed".

FA: Two Germans., 1996

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Broadbent, Louise Shepherd, 1982

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth.., 1968

Serious Callers Only

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

Not Invented Here

Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 2011

Zero Gravitas

Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd, Norm Booth, 2012

"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977