Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

2
12 Court Jester Trad 100m

Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look.

Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.

  1. 24m (10) An undercut start leads into a wide crack. At top, step right and up to ledge.

  2. 10m (-) The crack above.

  3. 18m (10) Pull up steep wall and continue upo crack and jug-strewn wall.

  4. 20m (10) 'Layback' crack on steep wall up left to terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Pull up on flat holds just right of undercut arete and then up to top. This is just left of Beau Geste's final pitch.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, Laurie Beesley, 1965

3
12 Last Remake Trad 25m

Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Jopie Bodegraven, Robert Knox, 1980

4
14 A Whale Of A Time Trad 140m

Another pleasant ramble.

Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"

  1. 35m (-) Follow prominent line until it fizzles out. Step right and up to good ledge. This pitch has also been climbed slightly to the left.

  2. 25m (-) Up front right side of buttress, over overhang and nice wall then up next wall past ironstone jugs to spacious upper ledge. The first two pitches have been climbed as one but rope-drag is a problem.

  3. 25m (14) Climb prominent crack, curving right to arete. Climb arete and continue easily. Belay near top of major left-leading diagonal.

  4. 20m (-) Broken corner to big ledge.

  5. 30m (-) Top pitch of "Beau Geste"

FA: Keith and Tim Lockwood, 2010

5

A good pitch but a bit out of place with only easy options for approach and finish.

Start: Start at second belay; this is also the second belay of "Beau Geste", at the top of the neat little corner.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

6

This great little pitch is not really more direct but it is a good finish to this route, especially if done with the Grade 17 variant, or to "Artificial Insemination". Tiny cams are essential.

Start: Start around left of the top pitch of "Beau Geste" at a prominent corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2010

7
10 ** Beau Geste Trad 140m

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

  1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

  2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

  3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

  4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

  5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

8

A fairly good direct line with a few nice sections and an exciting finish around the overhang at the top of the face. Big cams needed on first 2 pitches.

Even better if finished via Noddy's face around left of last pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Start: Start from the terrace, at the base of Beau Geste's second pitch corner.

  1. 20m (13) Follow right-leading ramp, then wide crack to ledge. There other belay options higher, including a tiny stance just below the roof but this is probably the most convenient spot.

  2. 25m (18) Continue up the line to the roof with a difficult section not far below the roof. Exposed moves out to and around the lip of the major roof-crack.

  3. 30m (7) Final ptich of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Roger Webb, Phillip Armstrong. Phillip had climbed the crux overhang with Eddie Ozols, Mark Shelton two months earlier., 1977

9
6 BA Mosquito Trad 45m

Pleasant access route to the big terrace.

FA: Heather Phillips, Bill Andrews, 1983

10

Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up.

Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'.

FA: Bill Andrews and GIT course member, 1981

11
9 * Tale of Woe Trad 85m

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

  1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

  2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

  3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, 1973

12
13 Bung Trad 45m

Looks great but is just OK.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Doug and Beryl Palmen, 1977

13
12 XXXX Trad 45m

Similar to Bung.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, 1983

14
11 ** Harlequin Cracks Trad 80m

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

  1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

  2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

  3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

FA: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor, Daryl Carr., 1966

15
18 Columbine Corner Trad 48m

Start: Start as for "Harlequin Cracks

  1. 15m (18) Take short orange corner just right of main line. Step right at roof and up to peregrine ledge. Seam to right of corner is also grade 18 but mossy)

  2. 33m (-) Pull over into line above and follow all way, with slight step left half-way up, on orange rock.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

16
17 R * Calabrese Trad 55m

Very good, but beware the runout halfway up the 1st pitch. Some say that the poor protection is not a problem given the straightforward nature of the climbing. However there is also the case of a leader who backed off this and went on to 'Orestes' for his next,successful, climb.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Salami'.

  1. 25m (17) Not well protected through half height, although technically not too hard. Crack to ledge at 3m. Take fading crack then face, and traverse 2m R to flake. Up it to ledge then up wall.

  2. 15m (17) Easy crack then R to slabby splitter crack. At the top traverse R over blocks to belay at the top of Salami's chimney.

  3. 15m (-) The crack up the middle of the buttress between 'Salami' and 'Salami' DF, with a fun roof.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews (alt), 1982

17
11 * Salami Trad 83m
  1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

  2. 15m (9) Move left under overhangs to a sharp, undercut flake. Up the flake to ledge.

  3. 30m (10) Either scramble up to the right or, from left side of large,scrubby ledge and undercut start leads to shallow, right-facing corner.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

18

A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay.

FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage, 1965

19
12 Where the F are we Trad 97m

This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.

  1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

  2. 11m (5) traverse, through crack to the right to belay.

  3. 10m (1-2) scramble up to small boulder next belay.

  4. 15m (6) up small face to the right, follow up and around left to overhang and ledge.

  5. 25m (12) from end (rightmost) overhang, crux first move out over the overhang for an awesome finish.

Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left.

Set by Geoff, 2013

FFA: 2013

FA: Geoff, Alicia, Jason, Holly, 2013

20
26 * Industrial Muscle Mixed 30m, 2

From 'Salami', move right onto wall at horizontal break. Up past bolt then up and left to crescent-shaped ledge. Up this to second bolt then hard moves up right.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1988

21

As for IM, then take extended leftward finish up the mighty headwall. 30 metre rappel.

Start: Start as for 'Industrial Muscle'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2003

22

From conifer below 'Salami' climb face on right for 2 metres. Traverse right to weakness in bulge, then straight up.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Dave Gairns, Keith Lockwood, 1983

23
12 Happy-go-Lucky Trad 91m

Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'.

Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.

  1. 30m (12) Follow red corner then taverse right across mossy slabs to base of diagonal. Belay a few metres higher.

  2. 23m (12) Take the diagonal, ignoring branch on right wall to big ledge.

  3. 15m (12) Follow either of 2 short corners to next ledge.

  4. 23m (12) The diagonal continues to tricky exit above 'Salami' Corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Anita Lundberg (alt), 1984

24
16 Goonkachoong Trad 15m

Takes the prominent roof.

FA: Dave Mudie, Dennis Kemp, 1989

25

Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'.

FA: Dennis Kemp, Dave Mudie, 1989

26
13 The Met Trad 20m

Good corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Anita Lundberg, 1984