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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mysteries Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
27 ** Tigger Trad 12m

Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!

Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

2
20 R * Rosshalde Trad 35m

A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall.

The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19.

Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge.

Start: Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham. Geoff Weigand soloed finish February 1985., 1979

3
24 * Free Will Mixed 20m, 4

A direct on Rosshalde. Up the slippery seam past 2 bolts, follow Rosshalde to the roof and then R and up past another 2 bolts. Take lots of long slings or double ropes. After the first 2 bolts there are good small wires where Rosshalde traverses in but they are hard to see, and after rain the placement sometimes fills up with sand - a nut key may be handy to clean it out as they are pretty crucial. Might be 23.

4
27 * Model Phantom Mixed 35m, 2

Thin stuff.

Start: Start as for Blue-Eyed And Blond.

FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985

5

The most attractive climb here. Luckily the desperate clip has been eliminated.

Start: Start below vertical seam & ring bolt that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to under bolt, up past desperate crux to easier ground.

Lower offs at top.

FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984

6
23 * Mysteries Trad 45m 2

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

  1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

  2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right to Model Phantom and up steep face.

FA: Lincoln, Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980

7
23 * Modern History Trad 35m

Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

8
26 ** Historic Events Mixed 30m, 2

Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.

Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

9
25 X Short 'n' Sharp Trad 15m

Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

10
20 * Spanish Eyes Trad 30m

Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.

Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 2000

11
17 * Spanish Gardener Trad 25m

Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.

12
15 Cundall's Arete Trad 15m

Pull up onto wall as for Gardener's Delight and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings.

Start: Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1998

13

Nice line with fiddly pro.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 1980

14
29 Honey Pot Sport 5m

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

FA: Nathan Hoette

15
32 Project Trad 12m
16

The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section.

FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989

17
25 ** Bottom Feeder Trad 15m

A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

18
25 ** Anus Horribilus Trad 15m

A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

19
29 *** Pooh Connection Sport 30m

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

20
27 ** Pooh Sticks Mixed 22m, 3

Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.

FA: Roland Foster, 1989

21
28 Super Pooh Sport 15m, 5

Tweaky

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

22
17 R * Eeyore's Thistle's Mixed 20m, 2

Good route but runout.

Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Andrew Martin

23
19 * Mohawkman Mixed 12m, 2

2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. The linkup of the start of this route into the finish of 'Mr Hanky' is about 15.

Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson

24
15 * Mohawk Hanky Trad 14m

The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.

25
21 * Mr Hanky Mixed 12m, 1

Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff.

Start: Righthand slab route with hard start on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson

26
12 Gardener's Delight Trad 60m 2

First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.

Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.

  1. 26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.

  2. 18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt), Daryl Carr & Andrew Smith, 1966

27
17 A Goat's Song Mixed 25m, 3

Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.

Start: Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman., 1998

28
25 ** 100 Acre Wood Mixed 12m, 3

Ultra technical face climbing.

Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song).

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

29
16 Beached Wails Trad 40m

Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived andgenerally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side...

Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss, 1983

30
19 Things Fall Apart Mixed 30m 2, 1

Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.

Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.

  1. 12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.

  2. 18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1998

Activity

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