Route Grade Style Popularity
Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!
Start: Start on left side of '
Mysteries Wall' proper.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004
A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall. #4 cam could be handy.
Start: Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.
FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham. Geoff Weigand soloed finish February 1985., 1979
Start: Start as for Blue-Eyed And Blond.
FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985
Blue-Eyed and Blond
The most attractive climb here. Luckily the desperate clip has been eliminated.
Start: Start below vertical seam (with PR) that crosses a diagonal line (
Mysteries) a few metres up.
FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984
The diagonal crack leading left into '
Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.
15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into '
Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.
20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right and up steep face.
FA: Lincoln and Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980
Fights its way up the real-estate right of '
Modern History'. It may be better to start up ' Modern History' than up ' Mysteries'.
Start: Start as for '
FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981
Climb directly past two bolts into '
Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.
Start: Start just right of '
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985
Short 'n' Sharp
Serious unprotected overhung arete right of '
Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below.
FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985
Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.
Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of '
FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 2000
Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up
Pull up onto wall as for Gardener's Delight and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings.
Start: Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of '
FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1998
A Night to Remember
Nice line with fiddly pro.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980
A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? '
Dynamic' and very powerful.
FA: Nathan Hoette,
Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting
The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section.
FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989
A direct start to '
Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2004
A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!
FA: Dave Jones, 1998
Climbs the direct start to
Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004
Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into '
Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.
FA: Roland Foster, 1989
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008
Good route but runout.
Slab route immediately right (around corner) from 'Poosticks'.
FA: Andrew Martin,
2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. The linkup of the start of this route into the finish of '
Mr Hanky' is about 15.
Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.
FA: Joel Wilson,
The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.
Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff.
Start: Righthand slab route with hard start on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.
FA: Joel Wilson,
First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.
Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.
26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.
18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (
Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt) and Daryl Carr, Andrew Smith, 1966
A Goat's Song
Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.
Start: Start at black face just right of '
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman., 1998
100 Acre Wood
Ultra technical face climbing.
Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of '
Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song).
FA: Steve Kelly, 2004
Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived andgenerally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side...
Start: Down right of the '
Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, 1983
Things Fall Apart
Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.
Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.
12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.
18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1998