Ascents in Mysteries Wall having Beta

Getting out of Anus. Fun.

So fun, will be back. Took a little to figure out which way the route went.

As good as they come.

1 fall above last bolt

Struggling on move down low, rest sorted. Will come back when have more time.

Went wonderfully! But leaves the desire to place gear, and climb it properly...

Wow this route is incredible! Worked with Tom on top rope

Noice. I went direct not out right.

Wow what a beauty 😍 did not expect this one to go so smooth and quickly. Love it 🤩

Put the gear in from the jug down on rap

Placed the gear on the jugs on lead

Great movement

Beautiful rock

Just needs a bolt at the start and it'd be a very popular head point

This was rad! One of those climbs that feels like it is speaking to you, such nice movements!!

Reachy, but some good moves.

Pre-placed first bits of gear and glad I did as I slipped off, tough start! Placing those on lead would be dicky. Gear in hand for the rest first attempt.

Quite fun, a V5 boulder in to 23

Two shots on top rope, second time clean. Very easy to set up an anchor and rappel in from above. The start was quite tough and looked like it would be challenging to protect well.

More moss than fun.

Finally after a number of dalliances over the last few years it was time to commit.

A grade harder than a number of other 24s I have done recently. Preplaced gear ⚙️ including 2 very good green 0.0 cams in first horizontal break.

Popped off after the crux, then didn't have the beans to send

Plenty of beta from different people and a good viewing platform coupled with a shortish climb lead to a nice wee flash

Did the contrived direct where you don't use the jugs out right, still probably 25 that way

Felt like the Blueys

A really fun and powerful climb!

I worked it bunch last year and found the bottom crux totally nails. Was so stoked to be able to send it today!!

Wooohoo 🔥

Figured out all the moves and lost a lot of skin, keen to work it some more though!

Nice and crimpy

Great rock quality and moves. A good options for hot days.

Blew it a further 3 times getting my gear back in the morning. Day 3 by this point and I was properly tired. Would go for sure if I cared enough to spend my fresh fingers on it which I don't.

Don't understand the obsession with this route. Short, climbs well enough I guess but it's straightforward. Gym climbers will love it I guess, but it is contrived - between 2nd and 3rd bolt staying strictly left (as opposed to going out to the arete 1m to the right) makes the route at least a grade harder overall.

Blew the flash despite watching Toby on it 100 times, then blew the second shot because I was tired at the end of the day. If I were strong, this would be easy ...

D'oh ! Should have done it on RP, gear was there and was climbing well, went straight through it all first shot.

Solid at the grade. Bomber 000 BD tri-cam and then another 00 just above it down low makes it safe. Quality climbing though. On for 10m, then fun for 10m. 3 distinct boulder problems of about V3, V2, V2-3

another couple burns. climbed it clean from the first rest since the slab was seeping, TRS

only first pitch barefoot, good fun, nice jams looks hard to protect down low but i wasnt really looking for it

got all the moves

only two rests, big gaston moves, cool climbing gear looks fiddly

one rest at the third boulder problem which was vvv exciting. i guess now i need to train ugh. bye Araps

Ethan opens a project. Stoked to get to jump on this thing because without his wanting to do it, i doubt i would have ever thought about this climb. But now it may go one day. Just not today. After working it, Ethan declared the following day a rest day, and with that, I knew a bond was formed for life, that would be celebrated with (separate) showers at the Horsham Pool and Ethan's first Bunnings sausage the following day.

ps fun fact: no matter how pumped you are, it is statistically impossible to fall off the second half of this climb.

Got to the bottom and realised I didn't have a small enough cam for the start, so ended up placing some gear off abseil in the crack at ~4m to protective start. Awesome rock. The top half is incredible at a much easier grade.

A hidden gem, really cool movement!

Very enjoyable and holds are more positive than they look.

2nd session. Linked through to top crux on Anus Horibilus but was pretty smoked. Easy one to train for, just need to up the pump capacity a little. Stoked with progress.