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Table of contents

1. Mysteries Wall 29 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mysteries Gully Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Tigger

Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!

Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

27 Trad 12m
2 * Rosshalde

A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall.

The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19.

Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge.

Start: Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham. Geoff Weigand soloed finish February 1985., 1979

20 R Trad 35m
3 * Model Phantom

Thin stuff.

Start: Start as for Blue-Eyed And Blond.

FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985

27 Mixed 35m, 2
4 ** Blue-Eyed and Blond

The most attractive climb here. Luckily the desperate clip has been eliminated.

Start: Start below vertical seam & ring bolt that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to under bolt, up past desperate crux to easier ground.

Lower offs at top.

FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984

24 Trad 25m
5 * Mysteries

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

  1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

  2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right to Model Phantom and up steep face.

FA: Lincoln and Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980

23 Trad 45m 2
6 * Modern History

Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

23 Trad 35m
7 * Historic Events

Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.

Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

26 Mixed 30m, 2
8 Short 'n' Sharp

Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

25 X Trad 15m
9 Spanish Eyes

Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.

Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 2000

20 Trad 30m
10 * Spanish Gardener

Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.

17 Trad 25m
11 Cundall's Arete

Pull up onto wall as for Gardener's Delight and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings.

Start: Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes'.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1998

15 Trad 15m
12 A Night to Remember

Nice line with fiddly pro.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980

17 Trad 15m
13 Honey Pot

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

FA: Nathan Hoette

29 Sport 5m
14 Project 32 Trad 12m
15 * Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting

The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section.

FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989

25 Trad 15m
16 * Bottom Feeder

A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

25 Trad 15m
17 ** Anus Horribilus

A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

25 Trad 15m
18 *** Pooh Connection

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

29 Sport 30m
19 * Pooh Sticks

Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.

FA: Roland Foster, 1989

27 Mixed 22m, 3
20 Super Pooh


FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

28 Sport 15m, 5
21 * Eeyore's Thistle's

Good route but runout.

Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Andrew Martin

17 R Mixed 20m, 2
22 * Mohawkman

2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. The linkup of the start of this route into the finish of 'Mr Hanky' is about 15.

Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson

19 Mixed 12m, 2
23 Mohawk Hanky

The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.

15 Trad 14m
24 * Mr Hanky

Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff.

Start: Righthand slab route with hard start on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson

21 Mixed 12m, 1
25 * Gardener's Delight

First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.

Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.

  1. 26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.

  2. 18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt) and Daryl Carr, Andrew Smith, 5th Mar

12 Trad 60m 2
26 * A Goat's Song

Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.

Start: Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman., 1998

17 Mixed 25m, 3
27 * 100 Acre Wood

Ultra technical face climbing.

Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song).

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

25 Mixed 12m, 3
28 Beached Wails

Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived andgenerally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side...

Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, 1983

16 Trad 40m
29 Things Fall Apart

Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.

Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.

  1. 12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.

  2. 18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1998

19 Mixed 30m 2, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 * Gardener's Delight Trad 60m 2
15 Cundall's Arete Trad 15m
Mohawk Hanky Trad 14m
16 Beached Wails Trad 40m
17 * A Goat's Song Mixed 25m, 3
A Night to Remember Trad 15m
* Spanish Gardener Trad 25m
17 R * Eeyore's Thistle's Mixed 20m, 2
19 * Mohawkman Mixed 12m, 2
Things Fall Apart Mixed 30m 2, 1
20 Spanish Eyes Trad 30m
20 R * Rosshalde Trad 35m
21 * Mr Hanky Mixed 12m, 1
23 * Modern History Trad 35m
* Mysteries Trad 45m 2
24 ** Blue-Eyed and Blond Trad 25m
25 * 100 Acre Wood Mixed 12m, 3
** Anus Horribilus Trad 15m
* Bottom Feeder Trad 15m
* Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting Trad 15m
25 X Short 'n' Sharp Trad 15m
26 * Historic Events Mixed 30m, 2
27 * Model Phantom Mixed 35m, 2
* Pooh Sticks Mixed 22m, 3
** Tigger Trad 12m
28 Super Pooh Sport 15m, 5
29 Honey Pot Sport 5m
*** Pooh Connection Sport 30m
32 Project Trad 12m