A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mysteries Gully Area
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!
Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004
A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall.
The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19.
Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge.
Start: Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.
FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham. Geoff Weigand soloed finish February 1985., 1979
Start: Start as for Blue-Eyed And Blond.
FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985
Blue-Eyed and Blond
The most attractive climb here. Luckily the desperate clip has been eliminated.
Start: Start below vertical seam & ring bolt that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to under bolt, up past desperate crux to easier ground.
Lower offs at top.
FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984
The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.
FA: Lincoln and Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980
Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981
Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.
Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985
Short 'n' Sharp
Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below.
FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985
Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.
Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 2000
Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.
Pull up onto wall as for Gardener's Delight and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings.
Start: Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes'.
FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1998
A Night to Remember
Nice line with fiddly pro.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980
A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.
FA: Nathan Hoette
Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting
The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section.
FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989
A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2004
A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!
FA: Dave Jones, 1998
Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004
Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.
FA: Roland Foster, 1989
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008
Good route but runout.
Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from 'Poosticks'.
FA: Andrew Martin
2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. The linkup of the start of this route into the finish of 'Mr Hanky' is about 15.
Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.
FA: Joel Wilson
The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.
Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff.
Start: Righthand slab route with hard start on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.
FA: Joel Wilson
First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.
Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt) and Daryl Carr, Andrew Smith, 5th Mar
A Goat's Song
Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.
Start: Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman., 1998
100 Acre Wood
Ultra technical face climbing.
Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song).
FA: Steve Kelly, 2004
Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived andgenerally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side...
Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, 1983
Things Fall Apart
Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.
Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1998
|17||A Goat's Song||325m,|
|A Night to Remember||15m|
|17 R||Eeyore's Thistle's||220m,|
|Things Fall Apart||2, 130m|
|24||Blue-Eyed and Blond||25m|
|25||100 Acre Wood||312m,|
|Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting||15m|
|25 X||Short 'n' Sharp||15m|