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Description

Shiralee Wall bounds the lower left side of the broad gully - Nameless 'Gully' between the 'Northern Group' and the 'Far Northern'.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

The climbs here are generally accessed from below.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 R A Gift From the Gods Mixed 25m, 1

The good section hardly makes up for the horrible start and way off.

Start: At lowest point on wall.

FA: Keith Egerton, Andrew Corlass, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve, Craig Nottle, 1984

2

Better than AGFTG despite sharing the start and much the same finish

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

  1. 25m (19) Up the mossy slab then take orange diagonal on the steep wall just right. At the top of the diagonal, step right and up through overhang to ledge.

  2. 25m (-) Line on right wall of gully.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns and Mike Stone, 1984

3
18 Stone's Throw Trad 50m

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

  1. 25m (18) Diagonally right up moss to ledge. Climb wall above a faint rock scar, thence up left into lichenous weakness and back right to stance.

  2. 25m (-) Straight up, heading right at top.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter and Mike Stone, Peter Woolford, 1984

4
17 * Banshee Trad 50m

Absorbing. Protection is a bit fiddly to get though it is good on the hardest moves.

Start: Originally started as for A Gift From The Gods but is better as for 'Dingbats'.

  1. 20m (17) Go up to ledge. Step right and go straight up compact orange rock being careful not to stray right into 'Dingbats'.

  2. 30m (-) Up slightly left on good rock to easy finish. Better would be to traverse easily right for 10 metres to the Shiraleee abseil anchor.

FA: Keih Lockwood, Rick Hatch and Ray Lassman, 1983

5
14 Dingbats Trad 50m

Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.

  1. 20m (14) Straight up then step left to gain ramp leading diagonally right.

  2. 30m (14) Step left and climb bulging groove on good rock.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Yap. Start as described by Chris Baxter et al., 1984

6
15 * The Shiralee Trad 55m

Tenuous climbing into the orange scoops that would have been very scary before microcams. Deserves to be climbed more often and might be now that the abseil anchor has gone in

Put up in a rainstorm during which a child almost drowned in Central Gully!

Start: Start below line of orange scoops.

  1. 25m (15) Climb easily up just left of the smooth face to orange rock and up into the line to the overhang. Traverse right and then back left above the overhang to rap-anchor.

  2. 30m (9) Abseil off of follow jugs up the line.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Reg Marron, 1973

7
19 * The Shiralee Direct Mixed 20m, 1

A direct start and finish to 'The Shiralee' makes for a very good climb. Take some tiny cams and a #3 (blue) Camalot in your rack.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2009

8

Terrible name but the climb looks better than the name suggests.

Start: Start at short crack 6 metres right (Shepherd guide, original description says 3) of 'The Shiralee'.

FA: Chris baxter, Keith Lockwood., 1983

9
15 Lacuna Trad 40m

The left arete of the 'Heath Row' buttress. Start as for 'Trotskyist Tendency' and after the initial black bulge, continue up the arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2012

10
19 Trotskyist Tendency Mixed 35m, 3

Climbs the centre of the face left of 'Maiden Voyeur' despite continually heading for the left wing. Good climbing throughout but the regular need to step back right to avoid the left arete detracts a bit. Take cams up to 3.5 (blue Camalot). Belay as for Heath Row or on a small stance a few metres higher below the left-hand diagonal line. Move up left to the bulge at the start of the face and pull over onto the black face. Continue, keeping right of the arĂȘte. At each bolt, step right below it and climb straight past. Belay on a ledge about 5 metres above the third bolt. Scramble, roped up about another 10 metres to another good ledge that leads off into the gully below Hurts.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Steve Greig, 2012

11
15 * Maiden Voyeur Trad 42m

No prizes for guessing who put this up. Following the left-most of the ddiagonal lines this is quite a good climb. Used to be hard to locate because the guidebooks mangled the writeups of this and 'Mammary Lane'.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row' Go up into the left crack and take the wide layback flake (big cam). Finish up nice thin crack.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1979

12
15 Mammary Lane Trad 42m

This and 'Maiden Voyeur' were described in the wrong order in the guidebooks so it was hard to work out where things went. The FA date in the Shepherd guide was also incorrect. The majority of this climb is very easy but the upper wall is great.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Mike Stone, 1979

13
8 Heath Row Trad 48m

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

FA: Ann and Roland Pauligk, 1973